Brownell Shooting Supply Company has a product we might could use for Trains

[ChiefEagles]

It is a epoxy type of bluing.  Not really a bluing but replaces it.  Would work on old cast engines.  You have to "ruff" it up with fine steel wool or very fine sandpaper.  Apply it.  Bake it at 300 degrees for 60 minutes.  Suppose to be almost scratch proof.  My retired pilot buddy just did a gun with it.  Can be bought in a dark black.

[dwiemer]

I have done this Chief.  Not hard to do and good, even results.

Dennis

[underworld]

So I take it that it is just for steel and iron, or can it be used on other metals???

 underworld

[ChiefEagles]

Should as it is a coating and not a bluing.

[laz 57]

Another good product from the gun industry is Remington gunscrub, cleans wheels on your engines.

laz57

[Jumijo]

I've used gun blueing to re-blacken the wheels on my post war cars and locomotives. Works amazingly fast and looks great. They end up looking like new!

Jim 

[dwiemer]

I've used gun blueing to re-blacken the wheels on my post war cars and locomotives. Works amazingly fast and looks great. They end up looking like new!

Jim 

Jim, brings up a good point. Some may tell you a car/engine is unrun, but the bluing can make it look that way. Just another reminder to be alert when buying used goods.
Dennis

[Anonymous]

I've used Brownell's stuff a lot. 

For the Blueing, I prefer their creme, works well. 

For plastic, I have used the brownell's Aluma Hyde II to paint plastic, it's epoxy based, and air dries, but it takes a week or so to fully cure.  But once cured, it doesn't seem to run, the "acid test" for a gun stock is mosquito repellent, it will dissolve most paint.  Their curing products that require heat are ok for metal, but if you use your oven, it will stink and you will need to clean the oven.  If you have a gas grill, low heat and an aluminum pan may work ok if you can regulate temp.