ZW post war problem, I think

[Fred Bear]

I have a four loop layout, all old Lionel steamers on them. Everything has gone great, some blocks set up for isolated power on grades, etc, etc. I have two ZW's. One I've had for a bit, the other I obtained a year ago. Here's the problem. I have a train that stops after about 2 laps now on a 6' X 12' loop. The red light on the ZW pops on, and once I turned the lever down and wait, the train will do it's two loops again, then same thing happens. I've already jumped the other ZW to that line, it will run with no problem, so I'm guessing the problem is in the ZW. What could it be that would make it act that way? All levers on the ZW possess the same problem. Other trains on the ZW with the problem also short circuit. I've visually inspected the insides of the ZW, new rollers a month or so ago, nothing appears to be wrong, but it's obvious something is. Any takers on this one? Thanks to all that respond, much appreciated, Respectfully, Jake

[MartyE]

Could be the circuit breaker is getting flakey.  You might want to take it to a local service center and have it checked out.  It doesn't sound like an excessive load.

[ChiefEagles]

My guess is Marty has hit it.  Just a guess, I would go to the automotive parts house, buy a 15 amp resetting automotive type circuit breaker [type with the blades on it].  Don't worry about it being rated at 12 V DC.  Buy a inline fuse holder for the new type of fuses.   Take out the old Lionel breaker,  Solder this fuse holder in its place.  Plug in the breaker and you will then know.  This is better than the Lionel part and more dependable.  I do all my PW ZW's that way. [Thanks to Bob Nelson]

[Fred Bear]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the help. I've not taken my ZW apart as of yet, where is the circuit breaker? Thanks much, Jerry

[Anonymous]

Jake,

          Do what Chief says.  I took his advice when I needed to replace a breaker in an RW, and the automotive breaker works great.  I bought a Buss circuit breaker at my local auto parts store for $2.94.  You will also need the fuse holder.  For a ZW or Z buy a 15 amp breaker.  For a KW or RW buy a 10 amp breaker.  Hope this helps.

[Fred Bear]

Where is the circuit breaker? I guess I should go to the manual to figure this one out. Nothing in this transformer looks like  circuit breaker as I know it however. Thanks again, Jake

[ADCX Rob]

It looks like this:



Rob

[lionelsoni]

Three different circuit breakers were used on ZWs.  Yours might look different.

[sulafool]

I've been to every auto parts store in the region (Advance, AutoZone, Checker, etc) and the only breakers they have are 20, 30, and 40 amp. Where are you guys finding the smaller ones?

[lionelsoni]

http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/ProductDetail.do?id=16856787&client_ip=207.8.101.93&taaKeyword=breaker

[sulafool]

Thanks Bob, but there aren't any O'Reillys in this neck of the woods. Looks like your link should point to the right place but all i get is the page asking for my zip code to find the nearest store. For some reason I can't get anything searching on "breaker" or "circuit breaker", either.  Besides, I got the impression that folks were finding these at AutoZones, etc.? No luck for me!

[Anonymous]

sulafool,

              Check this link:   http://www.wiringproducts.com/dept_60.html

          I was going to order from them until I found the Buss breakers at my local Frank's Auto Supermarket.  The breakers are by the fuses in auto part stores.  Regarding the link, the Type 1 breakers at the top of the page are the type we use.  You can select the current rating and also the mounting bracket style.  Check my earlier post in this thread to help determine what rating your breaker needs to be.  Hope this helps.

[lionelsoni]

How about NAPA?

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BK&PartNumber=7823121&Description=Circuit+Breaker

[Fred Bear]

I'm starting to feel pretty stupid. I cannot find the dang thing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Jake

[ChiefEagles]

Got two ZW's and none looked like this one.  Got another one today and guess what?  It has one that looks like this one above.   Will be replacing it with the auto type as soon as I get time [I keep extra parts just in case].   Then I'm going to work on the two KW's I have [not using right now].  I still use a quick acting circuit breaker box between the transformers and electronics [ie. DCS, TMCC Command Base and TPC].  I built my own from the OGR video but Scotts Odds and Ins has them already built.  They trip fast and you have to clear short and then reset.  Mr. Bear, if you don't find in a couple of days, I'll ship you the outfit.  Enjoy.

[Fred Bear]

Thanks for your help, it's most appreciated, Jerry Andrews

[ChiefEagles]

Yes, Jerry.  I know who Fred Bear is.  I have one of his recurve bows.

[Fred Bear]

I collect the Bear stuff, Fred's son in law, Charlie Kroll, was a dear friend of mine. Charlie sent me lots of Fred's stuff over the years,. I miss Charlie alot, good guy, funny as all get out! Thanks for your help on this, What kind of Bear bow do you own?

[sulafool]

Thanks Jim and Bob--I'll start with NAPA since they are everywhere (dunno why I didn't try them before).

Jim, might not the type 2 breakers be better in that they force you turn off the juice before you can roll again? Either way you have to fix the short, but with type 2 the track wouldn't re-energize prematurely?

[Anonymous]

sulafool,

                The reason I like the Type 1 is because it functions the same way as the original brakers.  Type 1 breakers are the type that most auto part stores sell.  Type 2 might be better, but I like to stay as close to Lionel's original specs as I possibly can.  In other words, I want my postwar Lionel equipment to function the same way it did when it was new.  

[ChiefEagles]

Don't go to Advance Auto.  They have to order [don't stock in warehouse] and price is $18 to $20 each.  I get mine at CarQuest.  We don't have a decent NAPA unless I drive into Raleigh.