Trestle Question

[kopeck]

I'm planning on adding a second loop to my layout that's elevated. About one third of it would be on solid footing (ie on a plywood box) but the rest of it is going to have to be on a trestle. My question is can I trust the Lionel style trestle or should I build my own? I guess the part that makes me nervous is the curves (the weight sitting on the out side) but then again I'm going to be using 054 so it wouldn't be as bad as it could be...

Any wisdom to pass on?

thanks,

K

[Roger Bielen]

If you want to get a more highrail look build your own. There are a number of different ways: a timber A-framed structure; stone viaduct; a steel girt bridge with grade; etc.

In the past I've built my own timber frames in lieu of the Lionel trestles. Using this methode I was able to link uprights together with timbers across the top spaced to support the ties on the track. If you have a table saw ripping pine to size is easy, if not you can usually find basswood at hobby shops catering to the R/C airplane trade.

Check out the mags. for ideas, a bridge doesn't have to bee level.

[kopeck]

I like the high rail look but my layout is more toy then anything else. If I built my own I would probably try to replicate cement rather then wood anyway (this is a "in town" layout).

If I did build my own how necessary is it to have a plywood base under the rails? I've seen some that have it and some that don't? I'm using 0-27 style track but with 054 curves. My original plan was to have a section or trestle at ever track section (like the Lionel trestle set) but I run some pretty heavy locomotives and don't want the track to flex...
K

[Anonymous]

Kopeck-

Marx made a great trestle for O-27 track. Pretty eeasy to find on ebay. They are designed where you can have an elevated loop that straddles a lower loop if you wish. They are made of metal so they are very durable. The footing on these are probably more stable than Lionel's or K-Line's trestles. You don't need plywood under the rails for any of thesse.

If you are running heavy locomotives, you might want to use O gauge track to avoid flexing.

[Anonymous]

If you want something sturdy that's right for an urban setting, check out this website:

http://www.steeltoys.com/]

[darsenau]

K-line made nice trestles that are a lot sturdier than the older style Lionel trestles, and they are very realistic looking. There are a lot of them around and at many of the dealers they are available at a good mark-down price.

[dbaker48]

I am trying to eleveate a fasttrack 36' circle, the fast track trestles leave a LOT to be desired, not very stable poor connection to track

[kopeck]

Thanks for all the suggestions!

I think I'm going to experiment with making my own. I like the idea of going with O to stiffen up the loop, I'm going to have to think about that. The other thing is that if I find there's just to much flex I could away add another trestle section in the middle of each section of track.

I would love to see some pictures of home made trestles, any one know where I might find some?

L

[msacco]

My current postwar style layout has the 110 and 111 set. Using O gauge track I can run my heavy railking gg1 over it and cannot see any sag even on curves. If it's there it's very slight. I do have the elevated section straddling a loop below and here, because of being unable to plants trestles at section joints, I have a plywood base underneath which allowed me to create my own wood posts and plant in key spots along the plywood path.
This could be drawn and cut out for ascent and decline as well, but I didn't do it that way.
I plan on using plastruct open web truss underneath the lionel trestle piers as featured on a CTT cover a few years back. they help, IMHO, make the piers more realistic by adding to fill the space underneath the track.

Mike S.

[cnw1995]

K - are you using traditional tubular track? I'm helping a friend add an elevated loop to his layout using Atlas track and we've 'kitbashed' the Lionel graduated trestle for Fastrack as well as bashed a few bridges out of steel (he's a sheet-metal worker). The Lionel set was lousier than I thought to work with - I'll bet it would work wonderfully with the track it was made for ;) We're using hobby wood - I don't know what it actually is - but its pretty dense and hard to cut (we got it at Hobby Lobby) to create El-like pylons too.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by msacco

My current postwar style layout has the 110 and 111 set. Using O gauge track I can run my heavy railking gg1 over it and cannot see any sag even on curves. If it's there it's very slight. I do have the elevated section straddling a loop below and here, because of being unable to plants trestles at section joints, I have a plywood base underneath which allowed me to create my own wood posts and plant in key spots along the plywood path.
This could be drawn and cut out for ascent and decline as well, but I didn't do it that way.
I plan on using plastruct open web truss underneath the lionel trestle piers as featured on a CTT cover a few years back. they help, IMHO, make the piers more realistic by adding to fill the space underneath the track.

Mike S.

Can you provide any additional info on the 'plaststruct' ? sounds like something I'd like to try... tx..

[dbaker48]

Doug, I found that using the elevated fasttrack had the following problems;
When the trestle upright is installed into the base, they are very loose fitting, and have about a 1/4' horizontal movement. This is suppose to be reinforced with a brace that connect to the top of the trestle, the brace is 10", which doesn't work with the curves.
Secondly, the plastic pin that holds the track clip, and brace to the trestle just pushes into the top of the trestle. After installing them if I was to lift 3 sections of track, 2 of the trestles would always fall off.

I substituted a #4 sheet metal screw to hold them together, and then cut a base out of plywood to secure the bottom of the trestle base to.

Not very impressive!

[kopeck]

cnw1995:

0-27 style (reallly 054 curves) tube track. I remeber when I used to run 0-27 curves I could see some flex but I'm starting to thing with the 054 the releaved curve will help with the flexing.

I'm pretty well set on builidng my own now. I the more I think about it and the more I look at my setup I think that one of the boxed kits just isn't going to work.

Now I need to figure out where I can get O scale port holes for my tunnel...

K

[msacco]

jamsit,
Here's the link. Bob Keller provided me with these. They come in ABS plastic and styrene. ABS is a bit more pricey. I'm thinking I can get away with the styrene.
For O gauge track I"m going to use
http://www.plastruct.com/Pages/Action.lasso?-database=PI.PRODUCTS.fp5&-Layout=Complete&-Response=OnlineProductDetail.html&-op=eq&CCode=OTS-24&-Search
THese are the ABS plastic ones. If you search the same product again you should see the strene version which are unpainted and white I believe.

mike S.