"Temporary" weathering

[Dr. John]

Having purchased the Lionel Mining set with the 0-6-0 and ore cars, I'm thinking of building a small mining layout with a southwestern theme. I want to give it the gritty weathered look of a desert mining operation but with the option of cleaning up the rolling stock at some point.

My question is this: What are some ways of weathing buildings, engines and rolling stock to give it the faded, dusty and rusty look I desire without being permanent. In my HO days I used chalks and liked the effects. I am concerned that the chalks might set up over time and make them difficult to remove. Any thoughts?

[FJ and G]

Dr. John,

I would try the chalks. The reason I say that is that modelers often use chalks and they say that it is temporary. They make the chalks permanent by adding dullcoate.

I unintentionally weathered all of my trains with "chalks" meaning drywall dust. I simply brush it off.

I really can't think of anything else that is temporary. If you use water-based paints you should in theory be able to take it off with a sponge and warm soapy water, but paints have a habit of getting into crevices.

Coal dust for your project would be my first choice. It sounds like you are off to a fun start with that idea. Look forward to hearing more.

[ChiefEagles]

Good question Dr. John. I was going to suggest dry powdered water based paints [if moisture got them solid, you could wet them and they would come off] and chalks. See my comments on the Coffee Pot about you building the SW. [;)]

[Dr. John]

Dave, Chief, thanks for the input.

I have some "weathering powders" that I really like to use, however, the instructions indicate that these are at least semi-permanent (No Dullcote needed). I may have to find some standard colored chalk (like kid's sidewalk chalk) and mix my own colors. At least I know this stuff usually washes off with water.

[Jumijo]

Dr. John,

Artist pastels (chalks) can be applied without much fear of them being permanent. Just don't apply them to forcefully or directly from the stick. I used to weather my stuff as a kid with them by scraping the dust off the sticks onto the rolling stock, and then worked it in with a small paint brush. A light coat or two of hairspay will hold it and can be cleaned off with warm soapy water. By all means, try this on an old junker piece first though!

This next method is even safer: Try weathering with kid's water soluable paints, markers, and pencils that clearly state they are washable. The painted weathering will stay put as long as you don't get it wet, and dries to a matte finish. Warm water washes this stuff right off. Trust me on that one. I have 3 small kiddos who color everything from their faces to the kitchen table. It all washes right off with a damp cloth.

Jim

[Dr. John]

Jim,

Great suggestions! Thanks!

[cnw1995]

Recommend also buying / borrowing a 'large' make-up brush

[Big_Boy_4005]

I've been debating this whole weathering issue in my mind for quite some time now. So far what I have come up with is to only weather the "non-collectable" cars. Weaver for sure, Atlas and K-line probably, MTH maybe, and Lionel in most cases not.

I worry that even the chalk method will leave a residue when you go to take it off. I'm not sure that any method is 100% safe. One thing you might consider is a base of hair spray, before applying the chalk, rather than after. I haven't tried this, but in theory it too should allow you to wash it off, and the color never really comes in contact with the paint job.

The thing is, once you consider going to the level of realism that weathering brings, do you abandon the concept of collecting and value? I'm 90% of the way down that path right now, and one of these days I may just say what the heck, and go for it. Even the Lionel!!!

[Jumijo]

Post # 500 here:

Remember the old tv shows from the 60's? Remember seeing cars in those shows with a random dull spot obviously sprayed on (so that the production lights, cameras, and crew wouldn't reflect in the car's finish)? Believe it or not, that was Aqua Net hair spray. It was washed off the cars when the shot wrapped. It can also be used as a sealer, and as Elliot suggested, might not be a bad idea before applying the weathering. I would suggest a top coat of hair spray after the pastels are applied to seal them from damage due to handling. But again, experiment on something you don't care about first. Also, you might have to mask off any clear plastic, like windows.

To me, weathering looks great on any scale rolling stock or loco, but on O27 and tinplate, I don't like it. It takes away from the toy-like appeal of the item. As for structures, I paint new buildings to make them more realistic. Nothing they make today is collectable, so I don't wory about that.

Jim

[Dr. John]

I'm not overly concerned about the collectibility aspect. I do want to have the option of removing the weathering in case I want to use the engines and rolling stock in a more toy-like setting. I would not attempt weathering those items that I consider valuable because or age, rarity, etc. The Lionel 0-6-0, 0-4-0 and MTH docksider that I want to weather do not fall into that category IMHO.

Good suggestions! The hair spray first approach followed with chalk sounds like a plan. Of course, I'll experiment on some old wrecks before going ahead with the revenue producing equipment!

Thanks again for the input!

[marxalot]

Dr. John,

I would be very interested in the results from your attempt. My experience with chalks in the HO
scale was that they were very pervasive in getting into cracks and crannies and just where you'd
like them. I have several cars that never saw Dullcote but are still pretty solidly weathered. But
maybe the base coat of Aqua-Net will help. I'm wondering if there might not be some worthwhile
insights coming up in the next issue of CTT as they are to discuss making winter scenes for a
layout. Maybe there is a winter scene reverser.............. I know: .........spring 8-)