Allen's Folly?

[Anonymous]

In a moment of weakness last fall I bought an inexpensive Bachman HO set--"The American," with SF warbonnet loco, 2 freight cars and one mismatched caboose. I didn't even set up an Xmas tree last year, so the set is still in its original shrink-wrap, glaring at me.

I probably won't do an Xmas tree this year either, but my cousins will, and we're invited. It would be fun to do the classic train-around-the-tree if I won't come out of the experience with egg on my face. Since I can't afford $160 for a Lionel .027 set from Menard's, I'm going to use what I have.

So I have two questions:

l. If I "square the circle" by adding four sections of HO track in the middle of each side so that it will fit around the Xmas tree, will that cause too much impedance for the DC powerpack to provide steady power?

2. Are there any brands of HO track I should avoid, because they are embanked or use a different joinery system than the Bachman?

3. Do Bachman couplers ride too high or low to accept extra rolling stock graciously? (I bought an ATSF red caboose at a hobby store in Des Plaines. It cost all of five dollars, which I take to be a favorable sign from the Train Gods. But I do not know what company produced it.)

As you've probably figured out, I'm not out to be a purist on this one.[B)] (The train will most likely be set up on carpeting, too.) But your facts and opinions are welcome.[;)]

Thanks,
Allen Smalling (smalling_60626)

[Anonymous]

Well, here's my take on it:

1. The power pack that came with the set will handle your slightly expanded layout without any problem.

2. Since you indicated a carpet layout, it kind of depends on how deep the pile on that carpet is. I usually advise putting some sort of sheet (better yet, a section of indoor/outdoor carpeting or even a section of thin plywood) down under the track to avoid any soiling or other possible damage to carpet or train, but if the carpet has a low and tight pile, you should be okay. I'm assuming that the Bachmann set came with their EZ Track, with the molded-in roadbed. Hopefully, that is the case. If so, you'll want to buy EZ Track for those extra sections because nothing else will work. It's readily available at just about any hobby shop.

3. Couplers are kind of hard to comment on without seeing what you have. The train set probably has the basic hook-type couplers that should match up with just about anything else equipped with a similar-looking coupler. You can probably determine that without even opening the set box. If the caboose is a Bachmann, Life-Like, or similar make (you usually can see the brand name on the bottom of the car or caboose), the coupling should be fine.

[Anonymous]

First off, so far as I know, all Ho track is compatible, at least it is if it is the same code rail.
Second, adding track to what you have is no problem. As long as the connectors are tight, you can add about any amount you want. If you go over say about 20 to 25 feet total, then I would use feeders every 10 feet or so.
Third, Atlas track is probably the most common of the brands available in the LHS's.
Fourth, coupler hieght is pretty much standard through out the industry. MOst anything will couple up to anythnig else with out any problem.
Fifth, unless the carpet is short closed loop pile, I would not run on it. The fibers from the carpet tend to get up in the works and that ain't good. My recommendation is to put a base of cardstock, cardboard, thin plywood, or something similar under the track. This will help support the track, and it will help keep the carpet fibers and dirt in the carpet out of the works. I would cut the base to about 4" wide. Lay the track on the base and put straight pins through the holes in the ties. Pu***he straight pins through the base so they stick out underneath the base. This will help keep the track from shifting and help hold it down.
If this was to be permenant track I wouldn't recommend this, but since this is temporary for the Christmas tree, doing it this way will not damage the track and you will be able to reuse it without having to jump through any hoops.

[Anonymous]

All HO track of the same code is, in theory, compatable, in terms of rail size, but you'll have one dickens of a time adding some other type of track to EZ Track (which is pretty much standard in Bachmann sets these days), unless you use EZ Track as the add-ons. EZ Track has a molded in gray roadbed, with a special connectors at the end, and it's intended to be used with other EZ Track sections and switches, etc.

[Anonymous]

If you are going to place the track on the carpet, get the track with the molded ballast as Allan pointed out. EZ Track comes in two flavors, steel and nickel silver. Use the nickel silver, it's more forgiving on traction tires and wheel sets. As far as the power pack goes, the one with the set is fine unless you start adding illuminated cars to draw more power than the pack can produce. If you are worried about voltage drops, just put another set of feed wires on the opposite side of the loop. It is pretty easy to hide the wires under the roadbed.

[selector]

I have used an On30 set on EZ-Track (HO) around our tree base for a number of years. It is the nickel-silver with gray plastic 'ballast' and thin rail joiners. The EZ-TRack falls in the category of 'snap' track in the lexicon. If your thin rail joiners have not been srung or abused, they will give you a solid connection for your purposed. My last oval was about 10 feet long, with only the EZ-Track connection that goes into the derailer, and the standard power pack. This Christmas train set has lighted pax and combo cars, about 12 in all, with no apparent overheating of the rectifier and no apparent voltage drop.

I used the long, thin roles of cotton batton sold for a few dollars at the department stores, the ones with the glitter in them. Roll them out around the tree base, and place the EZ-Track over the sheets of cotton. Instant snow...although the tracks are miraculously clear.

[BR60103]

Evntually the rail joiners on your track will loosen and the electrical resistance will go up. Get a terminal track in with your selection of straights and put it on the far side of the layout; make sure you wire it the same way as the first one.
If your $5 caboose has different couplers from the train set, they should be replaceable, but (at that price) some of them are not.

[brianel027]

Allen S., before you pull the shrink wrap off the set, you can find a Lionel set or even a K-Line set for well under $100. One of my K-Line Cross Country Sets cost me $50 through eBay. You would have to look around and it would take some effort but it can be done.

There are blowouts of newer Lionel sets: the Chessie Diesel and Southern Diesel Freight sets come to mind. Both listing near $200 and at blowout for $99. Over the summer I saw a cheaper Lionel MPC set with steam loco, 3 cars and transformer (no track) for $45. I'm sure it could have been had for less.

I also saw a set of postwar New Haven F3's at a yard sale for $150. They were in nice shape and well worth that price with the box to boot. But that was beyond my reach... someone got a nice deal.... he needed to sell them and offered them to me for $125... still out of my reach. The economy here in my area is el-stinko at the very best... (unofficial unemplyment rate around 20-25%). I have seen some incredible deals on trains from folks who probably needed to pay bills before they ran trains. I did breakdown one time and buy a very nice postwar operating Bronx Zoo Car for $5.00.

My point is with a little effort and a little luck (as long as you are flexible with what you desire) it can be done. Many of the lower end MPC Lionel sets can be had for a reasonable price. If you see something, get numbers and a description and post here for opinions.

If you are even less discriminating, Lionel during the 1970's through the early 1990's made some DC powered sets that usually can be found for a deal. I once bought two DC powered steam sets (no track), both with cars and one with the mechanical sound of steam for under $40. Of course, I repainted everything, but it is all in use today and runs just fine. I even once got a DC powered Dockside steamer at the Salvation Army Thrift store for 99 cents.

As I have said many a time, I've never been rich financially (even less so now) but I am a very very smart buyer who doesn't mind low end and then fixing it up.