o27 - 1122 gauge remote switches

[Anonymous]

Recently bought a bunch of used ones ( 1122 ) remote some work, some don't !! Get terrible BUZZ and controller won't operate them. What's up or just plain help. Solenoid appears to want to only stay in in position.
When I turn it manually with lens, snaps back to inside again.

[lionelsoni]

It sounds like one of the control rails is grounded. You do have insulating pins in the control rails, don't you?

[Anonymous]

Put the fibre (insulating pins) in the rails where the red circles are.

What is happening is that ,like Bob said, one of the control rails are grounded. This is part of the anti-derailing feature built into the switches. The control rails ( which are the ones with the firbre pins in) ground out (thorugh the locos wheels and axels) the one coil that turns the points so the train can move on without derailing over the points.

Without the pins the control rails are grounded constantly ground to the track circuit, explaining the buzzing of the solonoid pushing the points.

Hope you understand,

Jerry

[Big_Boy_4005]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jerrylovestrains



Put the fibre (insulating pins) in the rails where the red circles are.

What is happening is that ,like Bob said, one of the control rails are grounded. This is part of the anti-derailing feature built into the switches. The control rails ( which are the ones with the firbre pins in) ground out (thorugh the locos wheels and axels) the one coil that turns the points so the train can move on without derailing over the points.

Without the pins the control rails are grounded constantly ground to the track circuit, explaining the buzzing of the solonoid pushing the points.

Hope you understand,

Jerry

There is another version of the 1122 switch which has short control rails on the outside rails, both straight and curved.

Gadzooks, it might be helpful to test each switch before installing it in the layout. At that time you can identify which style each one is, and place the pins in the correct locations.

To test switches, I take a set of test leads from the transformer, and connect them to the rails. Then using a pair of pliers, I bridge the control rails, one at a time, alternating sides a few times. I repeat this process, bridging the treminals, which simulates the action of the controller. If everything works properly, go ahead and install them.