I am trying to solve question of what to expect of my transformers.
questions to be solved:
I am using the right throttle (D and U combination) on SW to run 022 switches and lighted controllerss.
I can choose between using other throttle of SW for one loco on a layout with different throttles to control different parts of the layout which will run 2 locos with my supervision--not a layout to just let them rip.
Following are observations running only one locomotive made on sections of track powered by SW; other sections are powered by RW, and that section doesnt seem to raise any questions.
I know right now i have 10 of the 022 switches and controllers on the other throttle of SW.
I find that no one of my three 736's run as fast as 2046, which has a different designed motor. Further, my 2344 which has dual growler motors runs as well or better than the 2046, even though two motors are in use. I havent tried my 2340 GG!, turbine or 773, but suspect with six powered axles and two motors, GG1 is a wattage hog; the 773 is probably better than the 2344 and I think turbine is same motor as berk.
I have a TW which has 2 seperate cores which I could swap in for SW which would divorce the wattage drawn by the switches from the wattage drawn by the trains. But the TW design caps the wattage available for either use, I believe. So if wattage use of switches is modest, SW might have more wattage for trains than TW. I also have another RW.
TW has imput wattage of 175; probably delivers about 60 watts to trains and 60 to accessory circuit.
RW probably delives about 80 watts to all circuits; all to trains if no other citcuits in use.
SW probably delivers about 85 watts to both throttles, which will probably fight over power demands; if use SW, I will not install any other constant draw accesories which use power while trains run; 397 coal loader would be ok be loco is idle while coal is loaded.
So question 1 is does it sound like my observatrions make sense if motors and drive train are adequately lubed (maintenance not my strong suit!)
If so, question 2 is whats best schem for powere supply. Have 3 or 4 RW's, an SW and a TW.
All analysis gratefully accepted.
stuartmitSo if wattage use of switches is modest, SW might have more wattage for trains than TW.
Rob
ok--that's a great start to solve my question--get an another transformer to run the switches. So that means about 65 watts going to 022 illumination, plus a drop more on occasional operation. But if I used the TW, the switches could only grab about 60 watts approx, and NO more, and then the other transformer would be completely available to operation of loco--am I correct?
what is the calculation--how many watts for a bulb at about 14 volts?
Are all the accessory bulbs the same, other than screw or baypnnet base?
It would really great to find a wattage rating for the spur motors like in 2046, as well as the motor types which are used in berks, turbines, growlers, verticals like in the 624 switcher and also bulbs used in passenger cars as well--is that tabulated anywhere? Then you would know where you are for power requirements when building a medium size layout--not a basement filler where I suspect many operators just load up the ZW's!
A GE 1447 bulb (which is typically what i use in standard gauge switches, i believe 022 uses same) is 18v and only 2.7 watts
432 controller bulbs are 4 watts, 1445/1447 are 2.7 watts.
I suggest using the number 53 where a miniature bayonet G-3.5 lamp is needed. GE rates the 53 at 120 mA, somewhat cooler than the 135 mA 1445, both at 14.4 V.
Bob Nelson
Why not just get a ZW and get rid of your voltage issues once and for all.
The ZW has 4 throttles, but only 2 with the additional controls; I prefer using the SW and RW's
It's interesting hearing you muse over the different performance of your locomotives, I never gave it a lot of thought but now I am somewhat curious how performance compared between various different models, from a 'factory fresh' state. It seems all but impossible for two vintage locomotives, or even two brand new ones, to run at the exact same speed, even if they were the same model, but since there were so many different drives/motors for Lionel's models, it would be interesting if there were some information on how the models compare in performance. Lubrication definitely plays a big role in how well my equipment operates, but there's definitely more factors at play, including how worn the gearing and bearings are, as well as the gearing simply being different.I've also heard that at least in theory, equipment with dual-wound fields (for 2-position reverse units) are weaker than the ordinary single-wound field motors. Certainly plenty to study...-Ellie
"Unless bought from a known and trusted dealer who can vouch otherwise, assume every train for sale requires servicing before use"
The question comes up because I observe that at least on one section of track not far from one of my transformers, when the locomotive enters it,there seems to be a slowdown somewhat. This section of track is controlled by a different transformer than the adjoining section of crack. Is the problem in that transformer, or even though the stretch is close to the transformer, is there some problem in the wiring? My First step is always to try another identical locomotive and see how that works. But that makes assumption that a locomotive's current draw and drive train should produce the same performance in identical models. So I may swap one gg1 for another, or one Berk for another, but I'm never sure what the answer to locating the trouble is.
This is a test
Running between differently powered sections will generally cause a fault current. If both sections are powered from different outputs of the same traditional transformer, the fault current can be quite large. However, your use of different transformers should insure that the transformers are protected from the fault current by their circuit breakers, even though the track voltage may change when the train is simultaneously connected to both transformers.
In any case, be sure that your layout wiring is heavy enough to handle the circuit breakers' rated current. (AWG 14 for 15 A, AWG 16 for 10 A, AWG 18 for 7 A, AWG 20 for 5 A)
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