The recent post on “2046 Cab Separation” contained a response that it was a PITA to remove & reinstall the 675, 2025 and 2035 boiler shells to perform maintenance on the motor. All three share the same basic construction detail, with only the 2035 equipped with magnetraction. Since the 2035 is my favorite steam engine, I thought it would be beneficial to others to see how the boiler shell removal is done with only minor aggravation. (It’s also raining today, so I have some extra time on my hands.)
The 2035 was produced by Lionel in ’50 & ’51. It is classified as a K-4 Pacific type steam engine. However, the Pennsylvania Railroad’s Class K-4 Pacific steam engine had a 4-6-2 wheel arrangement whereas the 2035 has a 2-6-4 wheel arrangement. It really should have been classified as an Adriatic Type locomotive. In any event, I think that in addition to being a great looking steam engine, it’s also an excellent runner on O-27 track easily handling s-curves and back-to-back turn-outs.
Unlike many other steam engines, it takes more than 3 screws to get the boiled shell off. Here’s how I do it. There are probably variations other people use that make this job even easier.
The first thing I do is remove the front truck. While not necessary it just makes disassembly and reassembly easier.
Then I remove the top motor screw holding the boiler shell to the motor frame. This is the only Phillips head screw.
Now I remove the boiler front by grasping it and pulling it off. I then remove the light bulb assembly from the boiler front light bulb assembly holder.
A threaded rod secures the boiler shell to the motor frame in front. I remove this next. Once it is loose, I use a small screw driver to push it out until I can grasp it to pull it all the way out.
Easy so far, unfortunately there’s more screws to remove. The boiler shell and steamchest are two pieces. There are 2 screws that have to be removed that attach them together. There is an additional screw that has to be removed that attaches the steamchest to the smoke unit bracket.
All most finished. The valve gear assemblies screws have to be removed to disconnect them from the shell. The valve gear assembly stays the motor. While I don’t think you have to, I also remove the crosshead guides as it makes things easier.
Volia! The motor can now be removed from the shell.
Note that I have replaced the original E-Unit with a Dallee electronic E-Unit. I needed to do this because I have several automatic stop & start locations on my layout which the original E-Unit just didn’t handle reliably. I also converted the smoke assembly from pills to liquid.
Putting everything back together is just the reverse of the disassembly procedure. I start by holding the shell right side up at about a 45-degree angle to align the boiler shell with the motor frame threaded hole. I insert the top screw and start it by hand. This is the one step you need to be careful that you don’t cross thread the screw stripping the motor frame hole threads.
Next I reinstall the front threaded rod. The motor has to be lifted slightly to align the shell and motor frame holes.
Next I reinstall the crosshead guides and valve gear assemblies. Then the smoke unit crank is put in place as shown. It only goes in this one way.
Not a bad word mumbled yet. Now the steam chest is slid into place. I find it easiest to align the crosshead, crosshead guide, and valve gear rod on one side followed by the other side. This requires some fiddling but isn’t all that difficult. Takes me a minute or so to do. OK, maybe there’s some under my breath mumbling on this step. Once in position the two screws are reinstalled then the screw that attaches to the smoke unit bracket.
All that’s left is to reinstall the light bulb assembly into the boiler front light bulb assembly holder, reinstalling the boiler front, and finally reattaching the front truck. A final inspection and then it should be all set to run. Here it is running in my test stand putting out quite the smoke cloud.
Running at a slower speed (voltage), results in individual puffs of smoke.
After you do this once, it can be done relatively quickly. The only tools required are a couple of screw drivers. Nothing has to be pried, bent, twisted or hammered. It just takes a little patients. Well I didn’t have a 2035 growing up, I did have a 2037. As an 8-year-old I had it apart and together often. That was part of the fun of owning a rugged Lionel train. Most of this hands on learning is missing with today’s can motors and electronics.
Have fun…..
Papa D
Great information - thank you so much for sharing. Future Internet searchers will thank you...
IT consultant by day, 3rd generation Lionel guy (raising a 3YO 4th generation Lionel Lil' Man) by night in the suburbs of the greatest city in the world - Chicago. Home of the ever-changing Illinois Concretus Ry.
Nice write-up and nice pictures!
Papa D, I concur...great writeup and pictures,,,,good information. The 2035 is a favorite of mine. My first 2 engines were the 2026 late 40s model, and the 2035. I too have been taking them apart since around 8-10 years old. My 2035 used to have a sticky e unit. Today I have several 2035s, and what I like about it is the magne-traction, besides looking good. I have a 2025 with the Baldwin Drivers, 47 model, but that is a shelf engine. I love Postwar because of the ruggedness and simplicity of them. I have modern engines, they run good, but postwar is where I started. There is something about it. Thanks for posting and helping those who haven't had the opportunity or are hesitant about taking apart.
Alank
I have no idea why, but I can't see the pictures.
Trains, trains, wonderful trains. The more you get, the more you toot!
Penny Trains I have no idea why, but I can't see the pictures.
While on the subject of the 2035, does anyone know if there was ever any detailed back plate that could be added to the engine so you weren't looking in at the electric motor?
great write up. my 675 was the first steamer I bought myself. I've bnever thought it hard to take apart.not as easy as my 671 of course, but not bad at all.
Dave
It's a TOY, A child's PLAYTHING!!! (Woody from Toy Story)
alank While on the subject of the 2035, does anyone know if there was ever any detailed back plate that could be added to the engine so you weren't looking in at the electric motor?
My 2046 has no backplate either, (and apparantly none did) so it was a bit disconcerting to look in there and see the e-unit looking back at me! No matter, I love my 2046, what a bruiser! To use an old railroader's saying "It'll pull anything, up to and including the yard office!"
Papa D, thanks for those detailed instructions. I don't have a 2035, but I just might one day. A question: I'm assuming that Dallee electronics e-unit compensates or just plain runs on AC voltage? Most circuit boards I'm aware of are DC only.
Ah, I see now why I couldn't see the pics. I had to tell firefox to allow it. Good to remember. Anyhoo I can see them now and everything makes a lot more sense! And seeing as how I just acquired my first 2035, thanks!
Flintlock76
The Dallee e-unit rectifies the track AC to DC. I've been using them for over 10 years with no reliability problems. Installation isn't too difficult, I'd say requires about an intermediate skill level.
Thanks for the response Papa D!
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