Lionel #50 Section Gang Car Keeps Slipping into Neutral

[JTrains]

Just getting back into Lionel as an adult (now that I have an inquisitive 2YO) and started purchasing a few things off eBay that I never had when I was a child. My first powered purchase was a #50 Gang Car. Ran pretty well as I received it, reversing nicely when it bumps an obstacle.  After a couple of minutes, it started to stop mid-track.  A little examination found it was slipping into the "neutral" setting as it went along the track. Thinking it was an issue of the slide assembly not being lubricated correctly and therefore not fully engaging when reversing direction, I took it apart, lubed the slider (and cleaned a few other things), and put it back together. Ran a bit smoother (although it looks like it needs a new roller - quite a bit of sparking and the roller is getting a bit warmer than I'd like...) but now it is even more prone to falling into neutral. So, took it completely apart, removed some grease that had accumulated around the contact plate, cleaned a few more things, put a little more upward bend in the contact spring plate, reassembled, and seem to be about where I was before. 

Does anyone have suggestions about how to "tighten up" the connection between the slide assembly and contact plate so that it stays engaged between "bumps"? Or do I have a "fatal flaw" in what I purchased?

[JTrains]

If it makes any difference, I think I have an early production run of the #50 - the horn is centered and the two stationary figures are olive, the rotating man is blue. A separate question: is this an accurate assessment?

[Curmudgeon]

I'll have to ponder that one...and maybe take one apart and have a look see.

I have several, and I do remember one doing that after I got it..in one direction only...and tracked it rapidly to a mis-installed rotating figure. The legs were hitting...something..and keeping the slider from moving to "home".

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[Curmudgeon]

The only thing mechanical I can see (if the slide actually throws all the way...and the ends aren't bent preventing full movement) is the chassis grounding spring, 50-24, which pushes UP on the slide.

If the ends of the slide are mashed in, could be they hit the chassis. Are the rubber bits dead vertical on the end? Or hanging down?

Shipping damage, thrown in a box numerous times, running off the end of a layout 60 years ago, all can do that.

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[cwburfle]

Did you replace the rubber bumpers? I have run into the same problem from time to time. The last time, it was being caused by the replacement rubber bumpers being too thick on the side towards the body, preventing the slide from moving all the way.
While the difference in thickness was tiny, changing the bumpers back to the originals solved the problem.

[JTrains]

cwburfle

Did you replace the rubber bumpers? I have run into the same problem from time to time. The last time, it was being caused by the replacement rubber bumpers being too thick on the side towards the body, preventing the slide from moving all the way.
While the difference in thickness was tiny, changing the bumpers back to the originals solved the problem.

Whlie I did not replace them, it appears at least one was replaced at some point - as upon closer inspection they are slightly different.  One has a slight "navy blue" tint while the other has a more "teal" tint - and the navy blue one has an extra set of ridges compared to the other. Both appear (I don't have a micrometer to measure) to have the same thinkness of rubber between the slide support arm and the body. But, taking both bumpers off makes the car work perfectly. I guess what I thought was "full engagement" of the slide really wasn't - but at least I now have a direction to go in. Many thanks!

[JTrains]

Curmudgeon

If the ends of the slide are mashed in, could be they hit the chassis. Are the rubber bits dead vertical on the end? Or hanging down?

I thought they were vertical - until I got out a level and found that the slide arms were each indeed bent in a couple of degrees.  I straighted them out to vertical - but I think they (or the part of the slide that first comes out of the car and goes down) will need a bit more adjustment as taking both bumpers off makes the car work perfectly. I guess what I thought was "full engagement" of the slide really wasn't - but at least I now have a direction to go in. Many thanks!

[JTrains]

Curmudgeon

If the ends of the slide are mashed in, could be they hit the chassis. Are the rubber bits dead vertical on the end? Or hanging down?

Which got me thinking - what is the "correct" distance, with the bumpers removed and the slide fully "thrown" in one direction, for the upward arm to be spaced from the chassis? On both sides right now it's about 1mm - which is definitely less than the thickness of the rubber on the bumper that sits between the arm and the chassis. I originally figured this was by design as a bit of a "shock absorber" when bumping - but maybe it's just mashed in more than I thought...

[cwburfle]

If it makes any difference, I think I have an early production run of the #50 - the horn is centered and the two stationary figures are olive, the rotating man is blue. A separate question: is this an accurate assessment?

If the parts are original, then it's likely an early one.
The parts are easily interchangeable between all the Postwar gang cars. Plus the brushplate and rear covers have been reproduced. Probably the green men too.

If the reversing slide has a simple right angle downward bend on each end, then its a late one. If the reversiing slide has a compound bend in each end, then it's an older one.

[JTrains]

cwburfle

If the reversing slide has a simple right angle downward bend on each end, then its a late one. If the reversiing slide has a compound bend in each end, then it's an older one.

My slide plate has a ~105 degree downward/outward bend WRT to the chassis body with a corresponding ~75 degree upward/inward bend to bring the surface for the bumpers back to vertical.