It looks like the circuit breaker is worn out.
Can you be more specific about what the two trains are, what kind and how many switches you have?
Rob
TarheelExpressHi, for some reason it's keeps saying that my post isn't approved yet, Eventhough I received an email stating that it was approved, So here it is. I'm running a SanteFe F3 2343 ABA set on the outside rail and, 2035 steam loco w/whistle tender and freight cars on the inside rail. All postwar Lionel's, they're three switches running on my layout.
As far as trains go, that's not quite close to the 180 watt continuous output capability of the ZW.
Next thing to do is measure the output with an AC ammeter to check your equipment - something might be drawing too much current, maybe.
Replace it. Bob Nelson suggests you replace it with an automotive resetting type. I have done that with all my ZW's and KW's. Works great.
God bless TCA 05-58541 Benefactor Member of the NRA, Member of the American Legion, Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville , KC&D Qualified
I got mine from Car Quest. Regular plug in resetting DC [which works fine with AC] breaker. I soldered in wires with connectors on each end. Then plugged it in. Will fit fine in transformer shell. I did wrap with tape to insure no shorts. 5 ZW's and 3 KW's. Never had one trip as I have fast acting breakers and TVS's to protect electronics.
Tarheel, you in NC? I'm in Rolesville.
Awesome, I'm gonna pick some up today, could you tell me what size/type I should get..ex size/model #
Out of Jersey.. Just a HUGE Tarheel fan!! Visit the Tarheel Visit Chapel Hill every few years!
TarheelExpress Out of Jersey.. Just a HUGE Tarheel fan!! Visit the Tarheel Visit Chapel Hill every few years!
Life's hard, even harder if your stupid John Wayne
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They come in various shapes and sizes. What is important is that you get a 15-ampere auto-resetting breaker. It will be rated for 12-volts DC. But you can safely use it at the higher voltages used for toy trains, because interrupting AC is much easier on a circuit breaker. Here is an example:
Bob Nelson
Bob, how would I install this? I was understand the Impression that TVS's were smaller that this. Just want to be sure I don't mess anything up by getting the wrong product. Point me in the direction I need to go and I'm there!
ChiefEagles I got mine from Car Quest. Regular plug in resetting DC [which works fine with AC] breaker. I soldered in wires with connectors on each end. Then plugged it in. Will fit fine in transformer shell. I did wrap with tape to insure no shorts. 5 ZW's and 3 KW's. Never had one trip as I have fast acting breakers and TVS's to protect electronics. Tarheel, you in NC? I'm in Rolesville.
Read above.
Hey Tarheel, I'm a Wolf Pack man. You got a reply to your message. Hope that helps.
I finally located it..... I was totally looking in the wrong location for the breaker on my ZW!! I'm all good to go now, I just need to get my replacement breaker, which should be easy and, install. We tend to complicate the simplest things sometimes.
Thanks especially to CheifEagles for going out of your way and, everyone else for your time and advise!
Good. It seemed like you were confusing a circuit breaker--an overcurrent device--with a transient-voltage suppressor (TVS)---an overvoltage device. The circuit breaker goes in series with the transformer circuits, that is, the transformer's output current flows through the circuit breaker so that it can sense that there is too much current and open the circuit before damage is done. The TVS goes in parallel with the transformer circuits, that it, the transformer's output voltage appears across the TVS so that it can sense that there is too much voltage and limit it before damage is done.
There is a problem with the traditional Lionel designs like the ZW that have multiple outputs. Rather than provide a circuit breaker for each one, Lionel put only a single breaker in series with the side of the four circuits that all flow through the common U terminal. (The four terminals labeled U are all connected together just inside the case.) The problem is that a fault current between any two of the A, B, C, and D outputs doesn't flow through the common terminal. So the single circuit breaker doesn't protect against that kind of fault. But you can supplement the original breaker (or its replacement) with individual breakers in series with the four output terminals. These can be inside or outside the case and can be rated for lower current, to protect lighter layout wiring (perhaps 10 amperes for 16 AWG, 5 amperes for 20 AWG).
You all won the ballgame.
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