For the "main lines" of my layout I use 036 Fastrack, I like the look, and I like the extra radius of 036 compared to 031. I use 036 Fastrack Switches as well.
For my elevated line I have Marx 034 tubular track with straight sections a combination of Marx, Lionel, and K-Line. I use a pair of Marx 034 automatic switches on the elevated loop and they work fine.
For a separate loop of track near a mountain the I built I use K-Line Super K 031 track.
K-Line Super K, and K-Line Super Snap, have closely spaced ties that look nice.
In all cases this is track that works with Lionel Mangnetraction.
You mentioned that you are planning on running PW Lionel trains, since many of these engines (but not all) have Magnetraction take this into consideration.
The first picture shows K-Line Super Snap.
027 Track (with 34 diameter curves) using Lionel trestles on one side, and metal Marx track elevators on the other.
Fastrack.
Ken
I use K-Line super K track, in O-31 rail height. It is a tubular track set in black plastic ties which are spaced nice and close together. The track evolved over time with the addition of a blackened center rail and later, a version that did not require track pins but relied on plastic clips molded into the ties to hold the track together. This last type was called Super Snap track. While K-Line is gone, RMT Aristo is now making this track, so new track is being made in addition to new/old stock and used track on E-Bay. All of these track types are compatible, and I mix them on my layout.
K-Line also made super-k track in o-27 which had brown plastic ties. The track was made in o-42 switches and curves, other diameter track was also made, but I do not know in what the sizes. All of K-Line switches could be powered from the track voltage or independently of the track.
I screw the track directly to the train board, but if you want more realistic look, cork or other roadbed can be used, which also makes for less track noise when trains are running. What stands out for me is the range of curves available. I use O-96, O-84 (Or something like that),O-72, O-54, and O-42 curves and O-72 and O-42 switches. O-120 curves were also made. Even if you do not have the space for 120 inch or 72 inch curves, you can use wider diameter curve track for making easements into sharper curves just like the real railroads do. Wider curves also make longer trains a reality and higher speeds safer. Less trains making the trip to the floor when couplers separate unexpectedly at speed.
Also, because the outside rails are electrically isolated from each other, you can create insulated track sections anywhere on the layout to operate accessories and signals by substituting plastic track pins for steel pins in one of the outside rails of the track. The insulated rail sections can be made as long as necessary so those crossing gates come down and lift when you want them to.
While cost and availability vary have varied over time, I think this track is, on the whole, less expensive than the alternatives and strikes a good balance between realism, cost, and ease of use.
Here's another source for 72-inch O27: I went to a train show this morning and saw that a dealer I know is selling the stuff and indicated that he has more at his store. He is Lemoine E. Fantz of A-Trains Hobby Store, 1124 Milam St., Columbus, TX 78934. His phone number is 1-979-733-6581.
Bob Nelson
Frank53,
Thanks for posting pictures of your excellent layout. You show what can be done with tradidtional tubular track.
George
Frank, you make the tublar look real [except the middle rail which we can't do anything about]. Ballast, extra cross ties and weathering makes it.
God bless TCA 05-58541 Benefactor Member of the NRA, Member of the American Legion, Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville , KC&D Qualified
Yes, it is - all tubular track. Not the best track system, but you can certainly enhance it. I could have spent thousands on what "most use" - gargraves track and ross switches. Instead I spent about $200.00 on tubular.
Ditto!!! Nice work Frank. Is that your layout?
Frank53 said: "Point being, you've got to walk before you run. It's easy to get caught up in what the "experts" say you should do and it can be overwhelming. Find your own comfort zone and tweak it as you go along. Personally, I used tubular for the nostalgia factor but tried to make it more real. It was dirt cheap to do and I could cover up the lack of realism with a little extra work. Do what feels right for you."
That is the best advice I have read in dealing with creating a layout. My first table layout was in 1952, before that it was tracks on the floor!
I have tried GarGraves S as well as Gargraves O, it is good track, but did not give me the satisfaction of recreating what I had as a kid.
In the 1980's & 90's when I was still in Flyer only, I hand laid flyer track on near scale crossties with hand built switches for sidings, it worked well. But when I moved it was terrible to disassemble. It was a 14'x6' layout with a 3'X6' L extension.
So now I use O27 and weather the rails as I get time. It is fun for an ol' geezer.
lionelsoni This guy has been selling several 16-piece boxes of new K-Line O27-profile O72 each month on E-Bay for around $60: http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-LINE-0-27-BULK-PACK-16-PCS-72-CURVED-TRACK-K-0226-/160950600511?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item257967433f
This guy has been selling several 16-piece boxes of new K-Line O27-profile O72 each month on E-Bay for around $60: http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-LINE-0-27-BULK-PACK-16-PCS-72-CURVED-TRACK-K-0226-/160950600511?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item257967433f
Thanks Bob, I will look for it.
Joined 1-21-2011 TCA 13-68614
Kev, From The North Bluff Above Marseilles IL.
I feel the love,
Thanks to all of you, I think the original poster tfabrizio has run for cover.
Chief, and Frank53, Bob Nelson did point me to the Old K-Line 027 profile track and yes they did make 072 curves. Lionel never did as far as I know, like Frank53 found out only 054.
Chief, can you just ask her the next time you are there? It is not a big deal but I would like to find some. I have plenty of time on this addition. I am not in a rush like I was when I did the first table.
I still think that tfabrizio was wise to ask before doing in this case.
Thanks again, I am stuck with what I started with and will make the best of it. At least I hope tfabrizio has time to look all of the options over.
ChiefEagles Jon, you always make wise comments.
Jon, you always make wise comments.
jonadel Frank53 Do what feels right for you. While that statement seems OK I believe it's short sighted in the fact that while XYZ track might "feel right" today, the real question is where do you want to be a year from now? If you want a simple figure eight layout then by all means go simple and make it easy, if you see yourself wanting to increase your layout size in future years consider carefully how you want it to look and ease of function. I would go forward slowly and look hard at "what the experts" recommend.
Frank53 Do what feels right for you.
Do what feels right for you.
While that statement seems OK I believe it's short sighted in the fact that while XYZ track might "feel right" today, the real question is where do you want to be a year from now? If you want a simple figure eight layout then by all means go simple and make it easy, if you see yourself wanting to increase your layout size in future years consider carefully how you want it to look and ease of function.
I would go forward slowly and look hard at "what the experts" recommend.
jonadel Frank53 Do what feels right for you. While that statement seems OK I believe it's short sighted in the fact that while XYZ track might "feel right" today, the real question is where do you want to be a year from now?
While that statement seems OK I believe it's short sighted in the fact that while XYZ track might "feel right" today, the real question is where do you want to be a year from now?
Well, I wish I could make decisions based on what conditions will be like a year from now, but my crystal ball has been on the fritz for a while now.
I would certainly recommend learning from the experience of others, both good and bad. The great thing about on-line forums is you can learn from others mistakes. The downside is, not everyone is in the same situation and folks do have a tendency to disregard factors like cost when it is someone else's money.
On-line forums are littered with casualties who are influenced by others about diving in blindly with both feet. This is a hobby where you have to walk before you run or you're going to end up like Reggie did - with boxes and boxes of stuff you've spent thousands of dollars on and found you were just plain over your head and you give up in frustration.
Everyone has an opinion on what someone else should do, Finding your own spot and your own comfort level and making the most of it is reasonable advice. There are plenty of fabulous layouts out there using Fastrack, RealTrack, tubular - o31 or o27 and many other less prestigious or less impressive track systems. - and a lot of marginal ones too. Likewise, there are a plenty of poor layouts made with the best track and switches money can buy.
KEV, try Todd's Train Depot, 919-365-5006 [after 1 PM EST adn before 5] and talk to Mrs. Edna. She use to carry it as I bought it when I had the "Carpet RR". Gave it all to Doug M, I think. She may have sold out. Worth a try.
K-Line made it once upon a time--I have a half circle stowed away somewhere.
KRM Frank53 Do you have any links for 027 profile 72R track?
Frank53 Do you have any links for 027 profile 72R track?
Went to the hobby shop today to look for the track. o54 was the largest I found. I mist have mistake standard profile tubular of o27 profile.
I am almost certain my local shop sells it. I am going there tomorrow and will check.
My PW layout is all FasTrack, and has been for several years. No problems of any kind.
I think what Chief, Frank53 and Jon have said is all good information and well put. I was completely out of the hobby for many years and when I started with my first layout since childhood I went with what I knew. In hind site I would not have went with Lionel 027-profile track but now I will just live with it. I have way too many switches and track to go back now. Track consideration should be the first thing you work through and you are lucky and wise to be doing so. Track is one of, if not the most expensive part of a layout. Two rails or three rails.
AF53 I've found the best track to use is the original American Flyer track from the late 1940's and 1950's. Stays together well and has the true nostalgia look. All the others use too much metal! Just had to thought this in!
I've found the best track to use is the original American Flyer track from the late 1940's and 1950's. Stays together well and has the true nostalgia look. All the others use too much metal!
Just had to thought this in!
Only problem with that track is its missing a rail down the middle.
Life's hard, even harder if your stupid John Wayne
http://rtssite.shutterfly.com/
Couldn't resist!
Ray
Bayville, NJ
Life is what happens to youWhile you're busy making other plans - John Lennon
Jon
So many roads, so little time.
KRM I run Lionel 027 with 42" 54" and some Marx 34" and on my small inner loop I use 27". I do like the profile. Bob, Who's track are you using? I would like some 72" curves and wider switches for the 10'x6' addition.
I run Lionel 027 with 42" 54" and some Marx 34" and on my small inner loop I use 27". I do like the profile.
Bob, Who's track are you using? I would like some 72" curves and wider switches for the 10'x6' addition.
I believe you can purchase o72 diameter track in the o27 profile.
Most responses here have made reference to tubular. All depends on what you are looking to achieve. You can go with the high price track and if you're willing to put the effort into making a realistic environment around the track by weathering the rails, ballasting and bringing realism to the scene it will look nice. If you're going to make a plywood prairie with the most prestigious track/switch combination, it's probably not worth the cost - which is significant.
A few years ago a fellow was starting a layout and decided on FasTrack and bought a ton of it - very expensive proposition. After a while, he gave into peer pressure and decided to rip it all up and go with Gargraves Track and Ross Switches. Probably lost a lot of money reselling that used FasTrack.
Nonetheless he started laying the Gargraves track and since he was laying it right on plywood it wasn't coming out very well. and the plywood did nothing to capitalize on the look of the expensive, but popular, track. He ended up giving up and was going to go into "N." He probably had a small fortune invested in a hobby he never saw through.
Point being, you've got to walk before you run. It's easy to get caught up in what the "experts" say you should do and it can be overwhelming. Find your own comfort zone and tweak it as you go along. Personally, I used tubular for the nostalgia factor but tried to make it more real. It was dirt cheap to do and I could cover up the lack of realism with a little extra work. Do what feels right for you.
Most are now using Gargraves with Ross Switches. Cost more but does a great job. Looks real good too.
Tubular doesn't have to be "toy train"
Thank You Bob,
I never even thought about K-Line track. I was out of the hobby for years and missed most of the K-Line era
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