What do you think is the optimal height for the main level of a train layout?
I'm fairly close to redoing my layout (too many rookie mistakes that I'm having to work through or live with). Min is currently about 32 inches off the floor but I am tempted to go higher (40" or even 48").
Also, I currently use Fastrack (I am neutral on it; it has its good points, but is not the be all end all of track). I am considering switching to Gargraves, but MTH Scale Trax has also caught my attention? Any thoughts or experience with either would be appreciated.
Thanks. Paul
I used 48 inch legs for my layout. The pros was easy to wire and work underneath the layout and I was able to use those 3 level plastic shelving to store individual boxed rolling stock. The cons, to high for the little ones so I put some benches around the layout for the little ones to stand on.
Bill T.
Hey Paul,
My layout is in a crawl space in my basement, and is probably only 6-7" off of the crawl space floor. There is a cut out to walk through which for my 4yr old is a great height. Not sure that this will help make your decision; but just wanted to show that limited height space does not mean it is impossible to have a train layout. Wiring should be interesting; but i'll cross that bridge when i get to it. I am usuing Lionel Fastrack as well. It is a bit of a pain to use being as though you can't cut it to the size you might need; but once you get into a groove it's no that bad. Here are some pictures for you to see:
Have fun with what ever you may decide!!
Kevin, thanks for the photos. Both a creative and excellent use of the space!! BTW, make sure you have a battery backup for the sub pump, and depending on your humidity levels in the summer, you may want a de-humidifier. But again, nice work.
Kevin........that is one creative way to resolve the ever-present space issue and make great use of an otherwise wasted space.. You are not to be denied!!!!
Jack
IF IT WON'T COME LOOSE BY TAPPING ON IT, DON'T TRY TO FORCE IT. USE A BIGGER HAMMER.
Paul, To each his own, My table height is at 33". The reason behind it is that using 4’x8’ sheets against the wall I need to be able to reach across 48" of table to pick up or place items. With my height 33" worked. Who wants to have to climb up on a stool every time they need to reach back to the wall? It is also nice for the little grandkids because they can see without being picked up. Kev.
Paul,
To each his own,
My table height is at 33". The reason behind it is that using 4’x8’ sheets against the wall I need to be able to reach across 48" of table to pick up or place items. With my height 33" worked. Who wants to have to climb up on a stool every time they need to reach back to the wall?
It is also nice for the little grandkids because they can see without being picked up.
Kev.
Joined 1-21-2011 TCA 13-68614
Kev, From The North Bluff Above Marseilles IL.
Mine averages 40 inches to the railhead. YOUR height depends on the eye height of the shortest person who will use or observe it and how far you need to reach into it. You NEED to be able to reach every square inch of it, including inside tunnels.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
Paul,.... Thanks for the compliment ;but i am already prepared for that. House came with a battery back up sump pump system which is on it's own circuit breaker,, and have a de-humidifer. But thanks for the heads up. Glad you liked the pictures!!
Jack.... Your right about one thing, i will not be denied my passion. I have a long way to go; but i have a good start. Thanks again!
KEVINK22 Paul,.... Thanks for the compliment ;but i am already prepared for that. House came with a battery back up sump pump system which is on it's own circuit breaker,, and have a de-humidifer. But thanks for the heads up. Glad you liked the pictures!! Jack.... Your right about one thing, i will not be denied my passion. I have a long way to go; but i have a good start. Thanks again!
Kevin.........it's the last space the wife would think of to take over by eminent domain. If she starts talking in that direction, tell her there are just too many spiders there.
I like to make my tables to look like a piece of furniture, so I use legs that are turned or carved and finished with various mouldings and what not. I've used table legs that come from Home Depot that were 29 inches tall. That was a good height for the young'ns and I was able to get underneath easy enough.
Personally I use tubular track, but other members have spoken highly of a combination of Gargraves track and Ross Custom Switches as being ideal.
CN&W,
I have 35 inches to the top of my layout. I also use fasttrack and love it. I have had no issues with it save for a bit loud but I'm good with the noise. I have to start doing the remainder of the ballesting and get the rest of layout in order. Here is a few older pics.
Older pic of layout
Hope this helps?
laz57
Sorry don't know where photos went? I'll try again.
Again....
Nice size table LAZ. At 35" looks like you can reach every place if need be.
Hey Laz,
That's a really nice benchwork you have there. I agree looks like you can reach just about everything you need. Nice job!
I picked 40" for the "tabletop" portion of my layout because then I could sit under the layout on a automotive "crawler" and could wire and solder everything sitting down. If it was much lower, I couldn't sit easily, and if it was much higher it would hurt my neck.
I did notice that certain model railroad "tricks" like forced perspective and selective compression seem to look much better when the layout is at eye level, but that limited the width of the layout that I could reach , even with a stepladder. So we made a "Rule" that the layout has to be operated sitting down (I have a selection of swivel chairs with casters so all operators and all visitors can sit during a session), and one is only allowed to stand when fixing a derailment or uncoupling a stubborn car during an operating session.
I set up the scenery with O scale in the foreground, S scale in the midground, HO scale in the "near background" and N scale in the "far background". When sitting, it looks incredibly realistic, when standing it looks more "toylike" but still okay and I can still reach everything on or below the tabletop.
I know that would not suit everyone, but it works for me.
Little Tommy
Phoebe Vet YOUR height depends on the eye height of the shortest person who will use or observe it and how far you need to reach into it.
YOUR height depends on the eye height of the shortest person who will use or observe it and how far you need to reach into it.
Word. Mine is at 24" because of the junior engineers. We visited a few local train clubs/shows, and I noticed how frustrating it was for kids (and tiring for parents) when trying watch a train that was running a foot above their heads. The bad side is that it's low enough that they can just climb up on the table. ;) So, in that sense, access to every corner of layout is taken care of.
If you plan to run early postwar (sliding shoe) or prewar (large wheel flanges), avoid Gargraves switches. The 100 degree switch, at least, will rip off the shoes and derail the prewar. Ross switches may be OK, and are compatible with Gargraves track.
My LHS recommends Atlas O, but I haven't heard from any users.
runtime
Paul, Regarding your track choice, I am building my second medium size layout using Atlas Nickel Silver Track. However, I would not be using it, if I were starting completely fresh. Many years ago, I ventured into building an outdoor o gauge layout. At that time, the only o gauge track manufacturer that claimed to be UV compatible for outdoor use was Atlas Nickel Silver track. I spent significant $$ on Atlas track and turnouts. As noted in a series of web articles on our layout, we had a lot of trouble with the Atlas products. They are well documented at the following link. There's a total of seven articles. http://www.btcomm.com/trains/primer/o_gauge_outside/bob_canfield/canfield4.htm
We had to dismantle this outdoor layout in 2009, and are building a new indoor o gauge layout at a new home. We salvaged much of our Atlas track, and decided based on the $$ involved to use it on the new layout. However, we decided to use Ross Custom Switches as opposed to buying more Atlas products. You can see our most recent efforts at www.bpsouthwestern.com.
Finally to the point, if I were starting over, I would not use the Atlas product, it is too fragile. I would consider the MTH Scale Trax, or Gargraves with Ross Custom Switches. The MTH is the more realistic of the two, but when laid and ballasted correctly, the Gargraves can look very good, and is less expensive. Ross has about the best selection of turnouts, especially if you are going to have rail yards, or want to use curved turnouts. You can see the Ross products on our newest layout as noted above.
Good luck, Bob
Bob - Welcome to Trains.com!
Darren (BLHS & CRRM Lifetime Member)
Delaware and Hudson Virtual Museum (DHVM), Railroad Adventures (RRAdventures)
My Blog
Bob, For as much praise as the Atlas track seems to get, a friend in a local hobby shop had comments very similar to those you shared. Gargraves w/ the Ross switches is compeling, and I like the Made in USA of Gargraves. I agree that the MTH Scaetrax may be a bit more realistic, but I have heard some troubling things about their switches as well. Thanks again for your comments. Paul
The problem with the early production runs of Atlas O switches is electrical continuity due to the undersized wires. They have improved to a better gauge wires for the switches. Even so, it is still a great idea to put 18 gauge or 16 gauge jumper wires around the switches to ensure that the power on the track will not be interrupted. The jumpers are needed if you are going to be using MTH DCS with Atlas O tracks.
Andrew Falconer
Watch my videos on-line at https://www.youtube.com/user/AndrewNeilFalconer
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