Are you asking if they'll work? Although the 1121 controllers will actuate the 022 switches, you won't get the actual position feedback that you get with real 022C controllers.
The common terminal on those O27 turnouts is the one closest to the switch machine, whereas the common on the 022 is in the middle. I think that this arrangement is reflected in the ribbon cable of the controllers, which will need to have a couple of wires swapped rather than connect straight across the cable. This is no problem unless you weren't expecting it.
Bob Nelson
If I remember correctly, the 1121 switches are wired like the 022s. If it becomes important, I have some 1121s in a box in the closet, and I can check them with a meter.
You're right. I was thinking 1122 and later.
The issue of the lights on the control not reflecting the actual switch position is still present however.
The lights on the controller will work like they do for an 1121 switch until the train goes through and activates the non-derailing feature. Then all bets are off.
I suggest you get some 022 controllers unless you are really strapped for funds.
Or just hook some lamps up to the turnout cable at your control panel.
Good idea Bob, you could even put some small lamps under the proper lens in the control if you were really energetic, then it would work just like the real thing.
gunrunnerjohn Good idea Bob, you could even put some small lamps under the proper lens in the control if you were really energetic, then it would work just like the real thing.
This is the best working scheme. Remove the movable shutters and fashion blinders to isolate each of 4 bulbs in the controllers.
In any event, I recommend taking the bulb out of the controller so it's dark when used with 022's. Otherwise, the bulb will illuminate with one switch of the pair in either "through" or "out", the position of the other switch will have no effect.
If you want to retain the controller lights and shutters with the 1121c, power the bulb(like a 53) through two small full wave rectifiers with the AC connections made with one AC leg of each to the common, and the other AC leg of each to one of the non-common connections(through & out) on one side of the controller. Connect the bulb to the two "+" legs for the tip, and the 2 "-" legs for the base/socket. As long as you are using fixed voltage, or the track power is on to that switch, the controller will remain illuminated.
Rob
You could also just disconnect the lamp from the turnout cable and power it separately from a local power supply, such as the one used to power the turnouts.
That will work fine, and they're probably a better choice anyway. I find the Lionel controls klunky and oversized. You can put a pair of LED's on the panel with a resistor and diode to give you switch position feedback, it's simple.
Or a single red-green LED: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062549
Since or dual, same idea. :) I might opt for the three lead bi-color, a diode and a resistor and you're home free. I think you might need an extra diode to make the two lead one work.
From Turnout | | | | |--LED--| | | R R | | --------- | DIODE | Common
OK, it's an extra resistor.
I withdraw my circuit. The LED will get a lot of current each time the turnout is thrown.
Probably need diodes in-line with the leads from the switch, then the common resistor to the common ground. I see this easily with the three lead LED.
From Turnout | | | | D D |--LED--|
| | --------- | Resistor | Common
[/quote]
You've got the LED shorted out! Here's another try:
From Turnout | | V V (diodes) | | |--LED--| | | R R | | --------- | | Common
Good point, I didn't look at that end, I was so proud of solving the excess current issue!
I think we have it now.
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