While cleaning out my late parents house we found my Dads 1948 lionel train set (2026 loco, whistle tender, and green metal passenger cars, 1033 transformer). I tried to connect the transformer with the lockon's, but get full speed on the loco regardless of the control position on the transformer, and no whistle or direction change, plus the TF started to get hot. I have no written material on the set at all. I had one lockon clip for power and another for whistle/direction connected to the track. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Two of the binding posts on the transformer are the variable speed output for the locomotive and two others are for the accessories. It sounds like you have the track connected to the wrong terminals.
Move your question over to the Classic Toy Trains forum and perhaps someone over there can provide you with a wiring diagram.
~G4
19 Years old, modeling the Cowlitz, Chehalis, and Cascade Railroad of Western Washington in 1927 in 6X6 feet.
The 1033 transformer has four posts, labeled U, A, B, and C.
Connecting post U and A to the track will porvide a variable voltage of 5 to 16 volts to control the speed of the train. With just one loop of track and one train, it does not matter which post is connected to which terminal on the lockon.
The voltage is controlled with the right hand control lever (throttle) Turnned fully counterclockwise, the track power will be off. Voltage, and train speed increases when the right hand control lever is turned clockwise.
Direction of the train is controlled by a solonoid operated switch (e-unit) in the locomotive that switches each time the power is cycled off and on. Depending on the locomotive, the sequence will either be forward, neutral, reverse, neutral, or forward, reverse. I don't recall what the sequence on your locomotive is.
You can cycle the e-unit by shutting the throttle off, then on, or by moving the left hand control lever to the left (turning it counterrclockwise), then letting it return to it's spring loaded center position. This shuts off the power to the track and allows the e-unit to cycle.
You sound the whistle by moving the left hand lever to the left (turning it clockwise). This puts a DC voltage on the track that operates the relay in the tender that sounds the whistle.
For one train operation posts B and C on this transfprmer are not used. Posts B and U will provide a variable voltage of 0 to 11 volts, controlled by the throttle. Posts A and B provide a constant 5 volts, while posts B and C provide a constant 11 volts. The constant voltage is useful for powering track side accessories.
Hope this helps.
Welcome to the forum. Keep asking questions, as there are people here that will know the answer, or we will start a discussion and figure the answer out.
You only need one lock-on. One wire, from #1 on the lock-on goes to the U post on the 1033. The other wire goes to post A. This will give you the most power out of the 1033 transformer. Whistle & direction are controlled by the orange handle, and power is controlled by the black handle.
Good luck and welcome.
wyomingscout
If your set was made in 1948, you have the earlier of two different locomotives which were both confusingly numbered 2026. Both models should have the 3-position reversing unit ("e-unit")--forward-neutral-reverse-neutral. You can step through the direction sequence by turning the right-hand control off, or by moving the left-hand control counter-clockwise.
The 1948-49 2026 had a 2-6-2 wheel arrangement, that is, a 2-wheel pilot truck, 6 driving wheels, and a 2-wheel trailing truck. This was called a "prairie" locomotive. The 1951-53 model had a 2-6-4 arrangement, which Lionel incorrectly also called a prairie, but which is properly an "Adriatic".
(The plastic handles are easily swapped; but Lionel put the black one on the right.)
Bob Nelson
I suggest you lubricate the engine and all the cars before you run the train. Here is a link to a service manual. http://www.thortrains.net/manualx.htm It is free and it is quite good.
You might also want to consider one of my recommendations: Bend the center pin on each piece of track slightly to one side. This makes a better connection and will keep the track together. If you have switches, you probably shouldn't try to bend the pins as it may damage the switch. Ditto crossings. Actually, you don't bend the pin, but bend the center rail where the pin is inserted into it. If you use this technique, you will find it is much quicker than trying to squeeze the holes in the track together, you will find that the connection is better, and you will find the track comes apart easily when you want to take it apart.
Thanks to all of you who responded, I got everything working, but the locomotive derails a lot in foreward works fine backing up. Next step is to clean and lube the engine
Does the pilot truck derail to the inside of curves? If so, that is characteristic of that locomotive and results from an incorrect design of the steering geometry. It can be fixed by modifying the locomotive, but probably more than you want to attempt. You may be able to get tolerable performance by eliminating any irregularities or rough edges on the inside rail of curves.
I have found that proper lubrication of the engine will reduce or eliminate derailing. There is another problem to look for. I believe your engine has a pilot truck made from die cast zinc. On a 736 that I have, the hole for the axle was badly worn. I removed one of the wheels and made a bushing to go in the axle hole, and the problem was fixed. I am careful to keep everything well lubricated, particularly engines. I have seen a lot of damage done to engines caused by lack of lubrication.
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