A co-worker tried to give this American Flyer 342 trainset to goodwill but they refused to accept it saying that nobody wants old train stuff, so knowing that I am an avid HO model railroader she gave this large box full of American Flyer train stuff to me. Problem is I don't know anything about American Flyer stuff. I've got some 1950 vintage Lionel trains but no American Flyer. Is this AC or DC? I think I'll try to fix it up and see if it runs. Any suggestions on how to lube the engine would be appreciated. thanks....
Theres more train track and stuff in the box not shown in the pictures.
2nd question. How is the engine wired from the tender to the locomotive. One of the wires from the tender is off.
Looks like a nice set. I know when I came across an American flyer set, I just took it to my hobby shop and had them fix it and get it working again. Those trains look in nice shape, maybe just a few odds and ends. Track looks nice too. Just gotta get that engine wired to tender. Thats a nice transformer as well. I collect Lionel postwar, but did sell all my AM flyer stuff for a pretty penny. Thanks.
WOW! Nice gift.
Side note: I visited a Salvation Army Store recently and asked if they had any 'train stuff'. The attendant told me the same thing. Interesting!
You ask, "Is this AC or DC?" Yes, it is AC or DC. This model was made both ways. If you can see the field assembly of the motor, you can tell which it is. The AC model has a field coil on the top of the motor. The DC model has a permanent magnet. The fact that I don't see a rectifier assembly in your pictures suggests AC; but that item could just be missing from the collection.
Bob Nelson
Wouldn't you be able to tell by looking at the transformer that came with it? The gauges are marked AC.
Paul
The transformer could be used with a separate ("directronic"!) rectifier.
lionelsoniThe AC model has a field coil on the top of the motor.
Yup I see that. Engine still no worky though. Trying to figure out how the tender is wired to the backplane of the loco. Looks like the original owner did a lot of splicing. I'm going to have to tear into and see whats up.
Serows1Wouldn't you be able to tell by looking at the transformer that came with it? The gauges are marked AC. Paul
Well now you're just talking crazy talk
Heres what I'm talking about...
Now I removed the two screws holding the wafer board to the loco, but other than that this is how I found it.
Does anybody have a picture of what this should look like?
Let's start with the locomotive. The headlight, the smoke generator, and the motor brushes are all wired in parallel and to the two top terminals of the female connector. The field coil is wired to the bottom two terminals of the connector. The polarity of any of these devices doesn't matter.
lionelsoniLet's start with the locomotive. The headlight, the smoke generator, and the motor brushes are all wired in parallel and to the two top terminals of the female connector. The field coil is wired to the bottom two terminals of the connector. The polarity of any of these devices doesn't matter.
Just found a few wiring diagrams online. http://www.portlines.com/portlinesclinic10.htm
http://www.trainweb.org/s-trains/diagram/basic.htm
I think I can wire it from there. The only thing I'm not sure about is the brushes. I opened them up and only see springs. I thought there should be a "brush pellet" the springs actually press down on like other motors I've seen. Do they only use springs for contact?
There should be carbon brushes under the springs, part number PA10757.
In my experience old American Flyer trains that haven't been run in a while will require very carefull cleaning of both the track, and the pickup wheels. Since your locomotive has four wires going from the tender to the engine, the reversing unit must be inside the tender. That means the tender wheels should be set up just like your HO, with each truck having the wheels on one side insulated, and the other side collecting power from the track. The uninsulated wheels should match on a given truck, but on opposite sides on the two trucks.
Given your closeup photo of the wiring, I'd either redo or replace all the connections.
The reversing unit is also likely to need a good cleaning.
Try these guys for diagrams:
http://www.hobbysurplus.com/americanflyerlocodiagrams.asp
http://www.hobbysurplus.com/xviews/340s080HSS.asp
lionelsoniThere should be carbon brushes under the springs, part number PA10757.
I see PA9603 in the parts list provided by the previous poster???
Driline,
Occasionally, the brushes will stick in the tubes or to the commutator on the armature. I'd definitely replace the wiring between the engine and tender.
Lucky you! The 342 is a very nice engine. Like Jim T says, if the wiring is suspect replace it. Be sure and use a very flexible wire for the connection between the tender and the loco. When troubleshooting the loco put a jumper between the center two jacks and apply voltage to the outer two jacks. If the loco is good it should run as this simulates the tender connection. With AF locos with the eccentric side linkage, I’ve had engines that I thought would not run because the linkage was bound up.
Jim
I just finished reading everyones responces, and the advice is all good. Here's a couple of tips for process of elimination. To check to see if the the motor or linkage is binding, rrach your finger in and rotate the armature. It should turn by hand. Observe the whells and linkage as you turn it.......... if nothing is binding the whells and linkage should turn properly. I always do this before suppling power as not to bend or damage the linkage if it is binding. Remove your brush springs and brushes........ asuming they are there from the brush tubes and clean the tubes with either tuner cleaner { radio shack} or elec. contact cleaner, use a pipe cleaner to make sure they are clean inside. At this point I like to replace the springs and the brushes if they are worn or stretched out of shape. Clean the face of the commutator with a pencil eraser. This will clean the surface without scratching it. Make sure you clean out the slots with a tooth pick. Open the gear box cover on the bottom of the engine and clean out any caked on grease........ people tended to use vasiline for grease years ago and it would harden over time. Once clean apply apply knew lubricate to the gears. You said you are going to rewire it yourself , so your going to have to disasemble the tender and your going to have to tackle the reverse unit........ 70% of the time the reverse unit is the reason a flyer engine will not run. You said that you obtained the wiring diagram so I won't send you one. The reverse unit is a drum and contact fingers, simalair to what lionel used. Start by spraying everthing with elec, cleaner. Snce your going to have to disasemble the unit to solder on the new wires I would sugest obtaining the new fingers. That's up to you but it's usally a smart thing to do at this point. Replace only one wire at a time so you don't get confused. Take your time and don't bend the fingers out of shape. If you run into any problems , E-mail me and I'll be happy to help you along. Vince............ train.guy2@verizon.net If everything goes well it should run just like new!!!
PA9603 is right for the brushes. I accidentally read the wrong line in the parts list. PA10757 is the number for the springs.
Sturgeon-PhishWhen troubleshooting the loco put a jumper between the center two jacks and apply voltage to the outer two jacks. If the loco is good it should run as this simulates the tender connection. With AF locos with the eccentric side linkage, I’ve had engines that I thought would not run because the linkage was bound up.
Ok, did that and heard the motor hum, I gave it a little nudge and could see it try to move, but no joy. I've taken in a part and now it looks like frankenstein. The brushes are intact and are a little over a 1/4" long, so they should be OK for now. Springs look good too. Commutator is very very dirty however.
I'm planning on using some contact cleaner and hopefully it will run after I put it all back together. If I can remember what went where
Cleaned armature,brush housing, removed old grease from worm gears, cleaned and used TV tuner to degrease. Removed tender and bypassed as shown in diagram. Still get the same thing. Low motor hum and the AMP meter on the power transformer increasing as I increase voltage. No Joy.......could armature be bad?
Hmmmmmmm.....scratching head. Hate to throw this away......I could sell the cars, transformer and track though.
Did you use a toothpick to remove the gunk in the commutator slots? If they are not clean, they will display the same symptoms of a shorted armature. Pull the armature out and try to turn the wheels by hand to check for binding. The wiring going from the motor to the jack panel may not be correct. Connect one wire from the tranformer to one of the brushes, and connect the remaining wire from the transformer to one of the field wires. Use a jumper to connect the remaining brush wire to the remaining field wire. The motor should run. Whatever you do, don't throw the engine in the garbage. The 342 is hard to find, especially one as clean as yours. I'll be sending you a message.
green97probeDid you use a toothpick to remove the gunk in the commutator slots?
Yes, did that.
green97probe Pull the armature out and try to turn the wheels by hand to check for binding.
thats Ok too.
green97probeConnect one wire from the tranformer to one of the brushes, and connect the remaining wire from the transformer to one of the field wires. Use a jumper to connect the remaining brush wire to the remaining field wire. The motor should run.
I'll try that tonight when I get home...thanks.
If it still doesn't run, try disconnrcting the smoke unit. It may be shorted.
Here's a link to some info on the 0-8-0, appears it was made c.1952.
http://www.geocities.com/theupstairstrain/engines-Switcher.html
Earlier this year one of these sold on ebay for $260....
http://cgi.ebay.com/American-Flyer-Trains-343-NKP-0-8-0-Switcher_W0QQitemZ250422351669QQcmdZViewItemQQptZModel_RR_Trains?hash=item3a4e55d735&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50
Driline, you lucky dog. I started out with American Flyer equipment when I was young. Of late I have been doing research on old AF equipment. As I have been wrestling with the idea of replicating the train set I had as a child.
Not the same train set as you have, though the green gondola and the Reading caboose are quite familiar. Anyway, in the course of my research I found this website which might be of some use to you; they sell replacement parts for old AF equipment.
http://www.rfgco.com/
I have figured out what is wrong with my brain! On the left side nothing works right, and on the right side there is nothing left!
stebbycentralDriline, you lucky dog. I started out with American Flyer equipment when I was young. Of late I have been doing research on old AF equipment. As I have been wrestling with the idea of replicating the train set I had as a child. Not the same train set as you have, though the green gondola and the Reading caboose are quite familiar. Anyway, in the course of my research I found this website which might be of some use to you; they sell replacement parts for old AF equipment. http://www.rfgco.com/
Wow great website! I can order the bulbs I need from there. This set included a railroad cross buck with flashing lights and also a Train sound device that actually works! I've got two turnouts that work as well. Plenty of track and quite a few bridge trestles. Checking on that website you gave me, it looks like the train was built in 1951 and the transformer 1952.
I'm going to use a mild detergent to clean the outside of the engine. And probably a bright boy to clean the track or some fine 600 grit sandpaper.
You did great! As you found out the AF stuff is fairly straightforward and easy to work on. There are some exploded drawings on the RFGCO or Portlines site to help with the reassembly. Your enginge has seen a lot of easily rode miles from the look of your pictures and the brushes down to 1/4". I'd go ahead and replace the brushes while apart, they are inexpensive. Jim T good job on the troubleshooting.
I wouldn't use sandpaper or a Bright-Boy on the track. You don't want to remove any tinplating that is there. I would use Scotch Brite.
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