I have 10 toggle switches that I would like to put on my control panel. I wanted to know if anyone knows where I can find those little on/off plates for toggle switches?? I have 5 amp heavy duty toggle switches from radio shack. They cost $2.39 each. They did not have the on/off plates on them. Also, I need the bigger washer that mounts first on the toggle, then the on/off plate, then the lock washer, then the fastner nut. I have all the lock washers and fastner nuts. Just need more on/off plates and Bigger washers. They are not flat, they have 2 layers. I only have 2 of these and I need 8 more of them and 8 more on/off plates. Anyone done this before and know where I can get them cheap and order them online? Might my electrical supply company have them?? thanks.
Is this the switch?
(If so, it mounts in a 15/32-inch hole, not the 7/16 inch that Radio Shack says.) I have plates for these. Six of them look exactly like this:
Three more look the same, but with the black "OFF" area blank. I also have two smaller "ON OFF" plates with the letters embossed, not printed.
I also have five locking rings (for locking the switch against rotation in the panel) and three plain washers.
If any of this is useful to you, let me know; and I will send whatever you can use.
Bob Nelson
Haven't a clue where to find what you are seeking, but I am currently doing a stretch in Toggle Switch Prison and figured I would chime in. Once I get everything on my control panel just teh way I want it, and am absolutely positive no major changes are forthcoming, I intend to make a graphic panel with all of the toggles, switches, etc, identified and adhere it to the pegboard.
I currently have 13 block toggles and since this photo was taken and up to about twelve of the small red tipped toggles which are building lighting. I expect when I finish all of the building lights, I'll probably be in the 40-50 neighbrohood.
Yes, that first picture is the switches I have. I need to find some more of those on/off plates. Could I use just plain flat washers so the switches does not fall right through the table?? Thanks.
I have a question and a comment. First, I have a postwar layout style layout but use Atlas switches. I am trying to use postwar controllers on the control panel. Can I use a postwar switch controller w/ the Atlas switches?
The comment: I am always amazed by the generosity of Bob Nelson. He is always willing to offer to help members of this forum, many times at his expense. I needed a small part for my oil derrick. A parts supplier wanted more for the shipping than the part. Bob sent it to me free of charge. He didn't even charge for shipping. This is what makes this hobby good: good people.
elvispI am always amazed by the generosity of Bob Nelson. He is always willing to offer to help members of this forum, many times at his expense.
That is well stated and a point certainly worth repeating. Bob is one smart sonofagun when it comes to this stuff and he seems to always have the answer for fixing just about anything.He is quick to share his expertise and his depth of knowledge on this stuff is pretty amazing.
hi
Been in the same boat. Got mine at McMaster, though other electrical suppliers have them as well. you need by 10, as i remember. mcmaster has the easiest [for me] search engine. it will show up on the left side, type in toggle switches, then just page thru all the different items. it will be there. While their shipping is low, shipping will be more than the item, so i would wait until i needed other items as well. I always have an extra nut/washer/etc on hand as well...they slip, roll and go with the devils...
hope this helps, if not fire back
ralph
I found the on/off plates. They are $11.50 shipped to me for 8 of them. Thats how many I need. But, the inside diameter of the circle, is it 15/32"?? I have the switch at the top picture. the package they came in say 7/16", but, I think they meant the diameter of the toggle switch to mount into a board or tabletop. I found the washers at an electrical supply company near me, so I bought 6 of them, thats how many I needed. Only costs less than $2.00 Thanks.
I'm glad you found what you needed.
You wouldn't be able to get that switch into an exact 7/16-inch hole without a lot of forcing. The example of the switch that I have has a major diameter of .458 inch. Seven-sixteenths is .4375, and 15/32 is .46875, much closer to the switch's diameter. In any case, 15/32-32 is a standard size for switches. It may have been intended to make it easy to put them in a half-inch hole.
(Thanks for the kind words, guys.)
Yeah, the on/off plates are 15/32" diameter inside the hole. So I guess I should be good with them. I will prolley order the on/off plates next week, and get more wiring whenever, and I will also need some more lockons to make all this work. Already got 2 dozen fiber pins. My hobby shop charges $3.49/ea for a lockon, brand new, The MSRP is $2.89/ea I bet I can find them for $1.00 or less at the York show. Will get more toggle switches before the York show for sure. Then its just a matter of getting them all wired up and ready to go for next christmas train layout that I will setup in October. Bob, Thanks for all your help, I do not know what I would do without this forum or you to be exact. My hobby shop almost has to charge me for advice and I hate that. Thanks again.
The toggle switches that I bought, Like pictured at the picture at the top. They only have 2 positions, on/off. Will these block power to my insulated track section that I do not want my train engine to stop at?? But, When I have the switch on the ON side, the engine will stop at the block signal or insulated track section? Now, the common ground, or middle soldering joint on the toggle switch, does that wire from there go straight to the common ground on my lockon or outside rail?? And the "stop" goes to my center rail inside my insulated track section, because thats where I want the loco to "stop." Also, the other soldering joint goes to "continuous" or to the constant power from the center rail, outside the insulated track section?? Hope this sounds right. Now, my toggle are 5 amps at 125VAC, I think bob nelson told me, that 3-6 amps is good enough, so I got some right in between, 5 amps. I guess I am good there. I ordered those on/off plates, I ordered (8) of them, what i needed. they are 15/32" diameter insides. thanks.
The switch in the first picture that I posted does have only two positions, but it is an SPDT switch. You mention that your switches have a "middle soldering joint". If there is a middle terminal, there must be two more for it to be in the middle between, for a total of three terminals. If your switches have three terminals, they are undoubtedly also SPDT switches.
An SPDT switch is "on" in either position. The common terminal (the one in the middle in this case) is connected to one of the other terminals in one position, and is connected to the other one in the other position.
Yes, my toggle switches are SPDT switches and they all have 3 soldering terminals on them. Now, the common terminal, Is that the same as a ground terminal?? Should the middle terminal on my toggle switch be connected to the ground on my outside rail or in other words to U or #2 on the lockon?? And the other 2 terminals on the toggle should be wired to the middle rail. One inside the insulated block and one outside the insulated block when in use with the 253 automatic block signal? Now, the 253 block signal has 2 possible positions the little lever on the back of it can be in. One is CONT and the other is SLOW. CONT means that the train will pass over the block without stopping. And SLOW means the loco will stop at the block. Which do I set the lever to, if I want to use toggle switches?? I would assume keep the lever in the SLOW side, because I can just turn off and on power to that 253 block signal with the toggle switch. Thanks.
The middle terminal is the common terminal. It is called that because it is used for both of the contact pairs that are in the switch and so is common to them both. Although you might connect it to ground (or more likely to your layout or transformer common) in any particular application, it has nothing to do with ground from the switch's point of view.
Ok, got it. I think maybe I need a book on all this wiring stuff. Is there a good O Gauge wiring book out there that I can pick up at a local hobby shop or book store?? I think I saw one for $19.99 online from Kalmbach Publishing. Thanks.
I bought mine at Sears Hardware...
Those knife switches are a nice touch!
8ntruckThose knife switches are a nice touch!
Thank You...My "inspiration" for them was from that picture were James Cagney got the "chair" at the end of the movie...just kidding !
Those are for switching back and forth from DCS to conventional operation.
BT
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.
Get the Classic Toy Trains newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month