Trains.com

Wye Switch eating trains

2594 views
11 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Foothills of Wva
  • 691 posts
Wye Switch eating trains
Posted by Fred Bear on Sunday, January 4, 2009 9:01 PM

I've been battling this big switch forever. Bob help me wire up this beast so every time a train enters, the switch kicks and puts the train on another loop so as not to run into the next train coming. It's a nice way to keep kicking them to a different loop, providing the speed is set correct for all corresponding trains. I have some stuff added to the wire by Bob's directions to give the switch an extra " Kick " in switching and it really works nicely. You can hear the thing switch across the room when a train is coming to it and hits the section of track designed for it. There is a capacitor, a relay, maybe a diode, I can't remember now but it sure works nicely.

       The problem is the darn Atlas switch is so huge the only train I can get to run flawlessly on it is the MTH Shay. Does anyone else have that switch in the Atlas track and does it give you problems?

Everything else must have rollers too close together or something as the MTH Blue Comet Tin Plate and the MTH Climax Logger both wreck about 1/4th of the time on that switch and the MTH Shay has never done that. So...down the road they go, along with a MTH 260E Black that is new in the box. I'll have to pick up another Shay somewhere. Train show in Wheeling WV coming up in a  few weeks, maybe there. Jake

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: St. Louis, MO
  • 4,913 posts
Posted by Brutus on Sunday, January 4, 2009 9:40 PM

Are they "wrecking" because they lose power in the switch?  There was an article a little while ago in CTT (I think) about adding another power pickup to a car behind the locomotive....  BUT that was for small locomotive - these should be big enough I would think....  Maybe someone has some practical experience to share - do you have a picture of it, that might help....

RIP Chewy - best dog I ever had.

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Foothills of Wva
  • 691 posts
Posted by Fred Bear on Sunday, January 4, 2009 9:53 PM

I can post pics I think. They are not losing power, what happens is that the switch somehow does not throw completely, or the switch throws 1/2 of itself whent he train is still over it and then some cars go to one loop while the remaining cars go to the first track. It's a neat effect until the sparks start and I replace the 590th quick blow fuse! Jake

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: Powell, OH
  • 1,257 posts
Posted by Wes Whitmore on Monday, January 5, 2009 12:34 PM

First thing I would do is find out if there is anything wrong with the switch machanics.  Remove the trains from the track to simplify things.  Take an engine that doesnt seem to work through the switch, and run it backwards and forwards through the switch by itself.  If it derails because it isn't throwing all the way, or throws back as the train passes through it, remove the power to the turnout machine and run it through again, manually throwing both directions.  That will isolate if it's the switch rails and how they align, or if it's a wiring issue.  If that passes fine with a couple of different locos, then plug it back in and add a few cars.  If there is a certain length of train that causes the problem, then it sounds like your ground throw section that the trains hit to "alternate" from one loop to the other needs to be longer since the train whole train isn't passing the ground section since it was last tripped  This is just a guess.  We could probably do better with more wiring detail, but the switch test probably needs to happen, regardless.

Good luck,
Wes

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Sandy Eggo
  • 5,608 posts
Posted by dougdagrump on Monday, January 5, 2009 12:50 PM

Jake, Are you using the new Atlas "anti-derailing control" that they recently came out with, or are you using manual or remote control ? Sometimes the tensioning mechanism that resets the points after a run thru doesn't close the points fully or without proper tension it will allow the points to be "picked or split" causing derailments or part of the train on one line and the other part to travel the other line. If the tension is set to high the opposite problem can exist, lighter rolling stock and sometimes the leading trucks on steamers can climb up & over causing derailments and blown fuses. Also double check to make sure that there is nothing interfering with the switch motor mechanics, ballast, scenicing materials, etc.

I was happy to see Atlas come out with their own anti-derailment control since we used all Atlas track. On one of the upper mains on the club layout it is merely a very long main line with two passing sidings and large reverse loops at the ends and I much prefer that the train enter the loop from a different direction every time it comes around.  

Remember the Veterans. Past, present and future.

www.sd3r.org

Proud New Member Of The NRA

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: Austin, TX
  • 10,096 posts
Posted by lionelsoni on Monday, January 5, 2009 7:09 PM

Jake, is this a new development; or did it always behave this way?  Does it throw completely, then change as the train is passing through; or does it throw only part way in the first place?

Bob Nelson

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Foothills of Wva
  • 691 posts
Posted by Fred Bear on Monday, January 5, 2009 9:01 PM

I ran the MTH Shay through it today 47 times flawlessly. It never messes up. The Climax just won't handle the thing. The switch has never really liked the MTH Climax logger. It messes up on it a good bit, not everytime but enough it's not pleasant to run it. I almost took the switch out but it the Shay runs so good through it I decided against that and I'll just get another Shay. It throws completely on the Climax, but somehow half way through the switch, some cars end up on the other loop and that's just not pretty once you get a bit of seperation going!

       Question on Proto 1. Can it be run in conjunciton on the same loop with Proto 2 with DCS? Thanks all, Jake

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Foothills of Wva
  • 691 posts
Posted by Fred Bear on Tuesday, January 6, 2009 6:33 AM

The switch works so well I've decided to go with what works and that's the Proto 2 Shay's. I'll find another one as soon as I sell my other 3. I'd think those 3 should bring $1000.00 Jake

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: Powell, OH
  • 1,257 posts
Posted by Wes Whitmore on Tuesday, January 6, 2009 6:40 AM

I'm more inclined to sell/fix track that won't run locos, not sell loco's that won't run on the track!  Of course, I have MTH switches though...

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Foothills of Wva
  • 691 posts
Posted by Fred Bear on Tuesday, January 6, 2009 7:20 PM

I would agree usually with that theory, but the MTH Shay runs so well through it and my layout is a logging layout so the other Shay will be a better addition. Jake

  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Southern MD
  • 315 posts
Posted by USNRol on Tuesday, January 6, 2009 8:56 PM

Jake, make sure the loco's that the switch is "eating" aren't "Picking" the points with their wheel flanges.  My PE Berk's trailing truck's wheel flanges were so sharp they would work right between the point and the rail it was supposed to be tight against causing the *** end of the berk and the tender to go one way while the nose and drivers went the other.  This was an 060 or 072 FasTrack switch, not sure if the same failure could apply to your switch.

Fix was:  judicious bending of the point towards the rail to get it tighter/closer thus eliminating the ability for the wheel flange to get between them.

Roland

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Foothills of Wva
  • 691 posts
Posted by Fred Bear on Tuesday, January 6, 2009 9:06 PM

That's a good thought. I've already listed the 3 MTH engiines I'm not using on Ebay however. I've kicked the idea around about adding another Shay anyhow. thanks much, Jake

Join our Community!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

Search the Community

FREE EMAIL NEWSLETTER

Get the Classic Toy Trains newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month