1033 transformer question

[northernpike]

Quick question-I have a 1033 that was given to me.  I soldered on a new cord.  I noticed that voltage drops when I increase the black handle.  What is causing this?

Thanks

[lionelsoni]

Which terminals are you looking at?  And which way are you turning the handle?

[Dub]

Picture with terminals. U A B C across the top.

The circuit breaker is shown just below the terminals.

 

[northernpike]

I did more digging-the a and b post is dead.  C works, but loses voltage when moved from off to power.  I checked all solder points, wires are in right places when comparing to a working 1033.   I am baffled as to the cause.  Everything looks right.  I am testing with u to outside rail, a,b and c to center rail on the lockon.

Thanks

Tom

[Dub]

Everthing you have said points to the handle. Somewhere under the handle are the contacts. A good cleaning and check of spring tensions would be my guess. I haven't taken mine apart yet, but it works fine. 

[bfskinner]

If the link below works, bring it up and look in the lower right-hand corner, second panel up from the bottom. This shows the allowable combinations of hook-ups, and the voltages (either fixed or a variable range) that you should get from each allowable combination. I assume you have a voltmeter, and you should try out each of the various combinations. You don't have to have the transformer connected to anything. Just put the probes directly on the output terminals on the 0-50 volt AC range.

Note that the Lionel wiring convention in those days was that the operator first selected which post he wanted to use as "common" and connected it to an outside rail. Then he took the wire from the center rail and connected it according to the chart. Several options were available. Please report your results.

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/transfmr/ps6.pdf

For a fuller discussion of this subject, go to

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd2g.htm

and click on the generic "transformer" tab. Then go specifically to the "1033" tab.

A previous owner may have re-wired this thing, so first of all see whether you can get results that match the chart.

 

[Dub]

Take a look at the circuit breaker, could be a bad contact. It is tied to the A and B post. With a schematic you should find the cause. Nice Site BF!

[RockIsland52]

Was the 1033 an early 1950s transformer.  Common in sets?  Thanks.

Jack

[lionelsoni]

Yes.  It was made from 1948 to 1956, then cosmetically redesigned and sold as the 1044 until 1969.  It is one of the most respected Lionel transformers.

I thought I had already posted this:  After seeing Dub's post, I reread Northernpike's last post.  I agree that the problem is almost certainly an open circuit breaker.  That would result in a variable voltage between U and C which would decrease with clockwise rotation, and a steady 5 volts between A and B.  All other terminal combinations would show zero voltage.  You can replace the circuit breaker with a 5-ampere automatically-resetting automotive breaker, sold at auto parts stores.

[northernpike]

Thanks guys for the advice.  I do not have a voltmeter but and open breaker makes sense.  The automotive breaker, that would be a 5 amp ac breaker, right?

Thanks again

 

[lionelsoni]

Five amperes, yes.  Since they are for cars, they are expected to be used on 12 volts DC.  However, the voltage and whether AC or DC makes no difference in where they trip; that will still be 5 amperes.  The difference comes when the breaker opens, like a switch.  But AC is much easier on a switch than DC and that more than compensates for the slightly higher voltage that the breaker will have to handle.