Here's why I ask: The recent thread concerning quality control on MTH Realtrax, and that MTH didn't seem aware there was a problem. If they read the forums, they should know.
This is my theory: Most people who are into the hobby big time, don't use this track system. I would say the same about Lionel's Fastrack. I know there are those who do, but I'm thinking that Lionel tubular, Gargraves/Ross, and Atlas are more widely used by forum members than any other track. Please don't misread this! I'm not putting down Realtrax or Fastrack in any way! I'm just thinking that most people who are into the hobby so much that they have found these forums, use a different track system, or are planning to.
The average guy buying a starter set, either MTH or Lionel, which comes with Realtrax or Fastrack, is probably buying it for a holiday gift or under the tree. If they bother to add switches, and they don't work, they probably just don't set it up the next year, or change to a different track, and don't bother with contacting the track manufacturer, or posting it on the forums. I don't know that as a fact, which is why I'm asking.
Again, I have NOTHING against Realtrax or Fastrack!!! I'm just wondering what forum members are using for track, and I guess why they chose the system they did?
I was using K-line shadow rail, super snap, and tubular Lionel-O. On my new layout I'm going to use Atlas steel (because I found it cheap, and I want to start all over), and have no complaints on these systems yet (Including the modern Lionel O-22's, which worked flawlessly for 6 years).
North of the 49th
I use good old Lionel standard O tubular.
For a while, I seriously considered using Gargraves. While I do like my scale equipment, I also really enjoy postwar(including operating accesories), and tubular just really makes things easier for running postwar. I don't like the thought of having to tinker with expensive switches just to get my sliding shoes to reliably pass through them. Plus, tubular is dirt cheap-I often pay about $.75 a section for good condition postwar track, which I prefer to use where possible because it's heavier gauge steel(better for magnetraction).
Overall, I have no complaints. My trains can go where they need to, and power drops are minimal. My switches consist of postwar O22s, which can be cantankerous but are overall reliable, the much detested modern O31 switches(catalog number 23010/23011), which have been absolutely perfect and operated flawlessly for me, and a single K-line O42 switch(with the low-profile motor), which has also been perfect.
I built up a good stock of postwar UCS operating track thanks to reciprocal agreement with my local shop where the owner gave me one for everyone I rewired for him to sell in the store. I currently have one in every place I could want one(each mainline and each siding), and still have a stockpile for any future expansion. I also have a whole bunch of the RCS operating tracks, one of which I use(to operate my milk car), and the rest also reserved for any potential future expansion.
With myself as established as I am in tubular, I don't see myself changing any time soon.
Sorry to be contrary, but I use FastTrack for my floor layouts. It works well and can be walked on without problems. I had RealTrax but gave it up when I started having troubles with the connectors and some track sections. I'll probably use either Gargraves or Atlas for the permanent layout.
BTW, my only real issue with FastTrack is noise. You can weather the ballast with washes and use Floquil Paint Markers to improve the look of the rails.
e.g.
Doug Murphy 'We few, we happy few, we band of brothers...' Henry V.
I use original American Flyer track enhanced with extra ties and vinyl bed roadbed. It is cheap, works great and cleans easily. Did I say it was cheap? It also works with the AF accessories without modifications.
Jim
For my S gauge trains I use original American Flyer track and switches with original rubber road bed.
For my Wide Gauge Flyer I use original Flyer tubular track.
For O gauge I did use tubular track. I do get to take some of my collection to local train shows and other venues during the year. I discoverd that my o gauge tubular track was damage and provided many more headaches than I was willing to deal with. I looked over the modern track systems and decided on Fastrack because it went together well, provided good electical contact and was fairly accessible. When I decided to put down some o track for a layout to watch my collection run I just continued to buy Fastrack to make expansions as I could. It is a temporary layout and it works just fine.
I am working on an elevated loop using original Marx trestles, so I am still using some tubular track. It looks a bit like an elevated line, like the ones I grew with in Chicago.
Northwoods Flyer
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My son likes the Fastrack the best and that is what we used to build our layout. We have run it quite a bit and we are very happy with it. I tried using O27, but then I sliced my hands way too many times and it just seemed so much harder to work with than the Fastrack. My son didn't like the looks of the O27 track either.
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cnw1995 wrote:I use good 'ol fashioned 027 tubular track by Lionel. Why? Because it came in my first train set - and it was easier and inexpensive to continue with it, including the 027 curves. I like the self-imposed limits.
DITTO!!!
Chuck: Your weathering looks Awesome! Care to post a tutorial?
I'm with ben10ben. My permanent layout consists of tinplate on foam roadbed with 022 switches and UCS's. I like the look of the toy trains. I am leaning toward more realistic scenery, and with a little weathering and ballast the tinplate rails fit right in. There's a lot of used track out there, and you get more bang for the buck.
I also have Fastrack. I received it as part of a starter set, and started using it for the Christmas layout, and for temporary outdoor layouts. It's quick and easy to assemble, and one-piece plastic base keeps the underside of the trains free from whatever the track sits on, be it wood chips outdoors, carpet fibers, or the poly batting for Christmas.
Kurt
K-Line tubular track on Johnson's rubber roadbed (grey-out of production). I use Lionel switches (can't beat the reliability), and ROSS track on bridges (for appearance).
That being said, I like Lionel's new track for appearance and availabilty.
After 48 years I am back to 3 rail again. I switched to HO back around 1960 and then to Large Scale around 1995.
I will be setting up with Atlas Century 21 track and switches. I was told it is a good track system. Seeing as I have no close by hobby shops (all are over 50 miles away) and no friends that are into model trains close by. I am pretty much on my own and will probably make a few mistakes along the way.
I will be attempting to model O 3 rail scale. I saw that term used on another forum.
Fastrack - Easy to use, dosen't come apart. Yes noise is an issue, but I can live with it.
Started looking at Atlas O, looks nice, price is comparable, don't care for the switches, but I have to look into that a little closer.
I am the monster in your head...And I thought you'd learn by now, It seems you haven't yet.I am the venom in your skin --- Breaking Benjamin
I used lionel O gauge tubular,O22 switches,lionel 027 tubular,GarGrave switches and 072 switches on the first part of my layout. I used Atlas O on the second part of my layout added later. Out of all of them, I like the Atlas the best. I have had to solder jumpers across some of the Atlas track joiners, but other than that, no problems.
George
I use Fastrack for the main level of my layout, with some 0 gauge tubular used in my Union Station complex. For switches I use Fastrack 036 and some 022 used with the adapter track.
My elevated track section is Marx 034, using a combination of Marx metal track elevators and Lionel trestles. This section uses no switches.
Ken
Lionel O27 Tubular..I have an extremely tight budget and very limited income. Also, being a "player" rather than "modeler", the track looks just fine. Of course, when I close my eyes I dream of Gargraves and Ross. Thanks for asking.
Traindaddy1,
You might think about using 027 profile track along with Ross Custom Switches. It comes in radii up to 054.The money saved on the track can go toward better switches. Just a thought.
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See what you started Chief? Shame on you!!!
I have experienced practically all the track systems and have samplings stashed away. Tubular O31 has been my long time favorite but it is beginning to take a back seat to Lionel Fastrack. Fastrack is expensive but it looks and works great with postwar Lionel and MPC. It seems I can blast trains at full throttle through the switches and crossings without a hitch. I also like it for its ease of use and variety.
MTH Realtrax is OK I guess. I just don't care for the widely spaced ties, zero magnetic permability with magnetraction, and the way the contact strips work.
I use GarGraves and 027 on my second level and GarGraves and O gauge 042 track on the lower level with GarGraves switches. Used GarGraves switches for a replacement of Lionel switches(6-23010), problems with derailments solved for me. Other nice thing about GarGraves & Ross switches is that the motor can be replaced while the switch is still mounted in the layout.
Had to replace too many Lionel 6-23011 & 23010 switches, these switches are most unfriendly to Williams engines, something about using a Lionel 6-23010 or 23011 with a Williams engine, once you run a Williams engine within two track sections(any direction) of those switches they go bad inside the switch.
My upper level is 027 track with 27 inch curves around the ceiling of my train room.
Have not used Atlas O gauge track or Fastrac or MTH Realtrax. Tried to sell some new and never used Fastrac at local train show and no luck.
Lee F.
My 5'x6' Christmas layout uses my older MTH Realtrax along with two 0-31 turnouts.
My new permanent 11'x14' (soon to be 11'x17') layout uses Ross turnouts, with Gargraves sectional for the curves, Gargraves flex track for the straights, and Gargraves uncoupler sections.
phillyreading wrote: Had to replace too many Lionel 6-23011 & 23010 switches, these switches are most unfriendly to Williams engines, something about using a Lionel 6-23010 or 23011 with a Williams engine, once you run a Williams engine within two track sections(any direction) of those switches they go bad inside the switch. Lee F.
You are lucky if you got anything to work on those switches. What a disaster those switches were and they should be on the top ten list of toy train blunders. I pity dealers who were stuck with them.
Interesting, and again, I'm wrong.
Here are the results so far (Sorry Marx and K-line track users, I'm lumping you in with Lionel tubular.):
Tubular: 10 people
Gargraves and or Ross: 3
Fastrack: 7
Realtrax: 3
Atlas: 2
Not really what I was expecting. I was thinking Ross and Gargraves would be right under tubular. Fastrack looks to be more popular than I thought. When the weekend is over, I will re-tally. Thanks to everyone who has posted!
We use Ross track exclusively (both switches and track). We have never experienced any troubles whatsoever and don't have to clean the track as much as HO.
Matt from Anaheim, CA and Bayfield, COClick Here for my model train photo website
"You are lucky if you got anything to work on those switches. What a disaster those switches were and they should be on the top ten list of toy train blunders. I pity dealers who were stuck with them."
I have three on my layout, and they have been absolutely flawless. They're considerably more reliable than postwar O22s, work consistently at lower voltage, and are much smoother. Plus, I like that I can make closer spaced yard sidings than is possible with O22s.
Kookjock also has several of these installed on his layout, and reports no trouble with them.
If anyone has any of these switches which they were "stuck" with, send me an e-mail and I'd be more than happy to take them off your hands. I love the ones I have.
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