The best thing to use for cleaning the battery box and frame is distilled white vinegar.
If at all possible, remove the battery box from the frame(usually just one or two scews) and soak it for a while in vinegar. The vinegar will neutralize any remaining electrolyte from the battery(usually a paste of potassium hydroxide) as well as loosen up the rust. You can then use a wire brush or sandpaper to really clean it up. If that doesn't work, try soaking in dilute muriatic acid.
For the frame, I'd suggest treating with vinegar on a paper towel. Don't soak the frame in vinegar, as you can end up dissolving some of the zinc. Absolutely don't use muriatic acid on the frame, or any other zinc parts, either.
Wheels will sometimes gum up when after having been lubricated, usually by the included Lionel lubricant, at some point in the past. The best thing to do is to remove the trucks and soak them in a strong solvent. I like to use straight toluene, or a mixture of toluene and xylene, for this. Acetone will also work, although it might dissolve the lacquer around the windings on the coil couplers. I personally would suggest the use methyl ethyl ketone(MEK) over acetone due to the fact that it's more greasy and not quite as "hot" toward things like lacquers. Any of these should be available at the hardware store.
After soaking, you'll probably need turn the wheels with your hands to get them good and free. Soak the wheels some more, and turn them more. Once they're reasonably free, give them a couple of rinses in denatured alcohol. Once the alcohol has dried, you can put fresh lube on the gears.
lionel2 wrote:I have a 2343 AA S.F. Units that i am trying to get into running shape. Unfortunatly these AA units are in bad shape........Would it hurt the value to find original shells and replace them, swap 2343 shells with better 2343 shells, all original ones? Thanks.
Would it hurt the value to find original shells and replace them, swap 2343 shells with better 2343 shells, all original ones? Thanks.
Hi lionel2.....if you are interested, I recall a SF Warbonnet repaint discussion from a recent thread, including pictures, stripping, washing, templates, striping, decals, priming, paint, and a final clear coat: Re: Wanted-tips on painting shells. April 3, 2008 post.
http://cs.trains.com/forums/1409899/ShowPost.aspx
Finding original SF 2343 shells (only) in good or very good condition may be extremely difficult. I don't think replacing one set of 2343 original shells with another original set in better condition would hurt the value since no one would know they were swapped out except you. The 2343s were made 1950-1952. The only difference in the shells I am aware of is that the GM decal on those made in 1950 and 1951 were larger than the decal that appeared on the 1952 engines. Others more in the know may correct this statement.
philo426 walked through his process of repainting F3 shells in poor condition to the Warbonnet scheme. Check out his pictures. Nice job to say the least.
Some of the experts in this Forum know more about this than I do, but the jist of what they say regarding originality and value is this: a top notch paint restoration won't match in value an untouched original in very good C7+ condition. From the sounds of your original post, your shells may be beyond a meticulous clean up and polish with some minor touch up. If you do a Forum search, there is a lot of advice on taking the least drastic route of cleanup, touch up, and polishing the shells you have.
Jack
IF IT WON'T COME LOOSE BY TAPPING ON IT, DON'T TRY TO FORCE IT. USE A BIGGER HAMMER.
2343 shells show up on ebay frequently. Sometimes a hoard of them show up. There are two individual auctions on single shells as I write. One is shabby and one is decent. The forum rules prevent me from posting links. Just punch "shell" into search. Sounds like maybe your axles are seazed to the bushings? If so, penetrating oil may be of help here. Just be sure to flush it with solvent and lubricate the axle after you loosen it up.
As it turns out I might just have to replace the shell on the power unit only. But would be nice if i had the money to get them both replaced so they match pretty good. The battery bracket is rusted pretty bad and will need alot of attention. I think i will soak the battery bracket in white vinegar and see if that helps. It still has all its original wiring, e-unit and relay look good, no rust on anything else, maybe just a little on the bottom tray below the battery bracket. Wheels and Trucks look good now. I got them turning now with a little oil. I might need to order some parts for it, maybe just $25 worth of parts, and $40 in new shells or so. So its quite a project and will keep me busy for a week or 2. Hope it will run like new when i am all done. thanks.
Many of us are running postwar that was given to us when we were kids, and I can assure you my stuff does not look new. As I stated in my previous post, there are a lot of good Forum tips on cleaning, polishing, and touch up if you choose to. I believe there is even one on careful polishing 2343s within the last 4 months or so. Nice F3s, one of my favorites.
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