If, cost was absolutely no factor in your decision, what type of track would you buy?
(Based on quality, appearance and performance not based on any personal bias -- like me who is a tubular fan)
As always, many thanks.
FasTrack for the following reasons:
It's easy to put together
It has great electrical conductivity
It looks nice (especially when painted)
No ballasting required
Magnatraction works on it
Switches are super reliable
Can be set up on a floor, carpet, table, grass, just about anywhere
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
Man, thats a tough question, I am dumb enough to think I want a stricly prewar layout, a strictly postwar layout and a strictly AF layout and then maybe also a hirail layout. Put em all together and maybe you have gargraves?? with Ross switches money being no object mind you....
But I think, like you, I am tubular and will build my next layout of tubular as have been the last three.
I will say this, after dabbling with fastrack this christmas, I like it too.
You can do the same thing with accesories, do you like the non scale prewar style operating accesories or do you prefer the newer more realistic stuff? I guess I like a little of both...
Fastrack for the above reasons, but lately I've been considering the Atlas track. Not really sold on the switches, yet. I've seen them fall apart. Only real reason to consider Atlas was the noise issue and the way the Atlas looks.
So, put me down for Fastrack, Atlas at 2nd place.
I am the monster in your head...And I thought you'd learn by now, It seems you haven't yet.I am the venom in your skin --- Breaking Benjamin
Getting rid of Atlas for FasTrack. Too many problems with operating cars and the toy train elements . Atlas is a great choice for the scale end of the hobby though.
FasTrack seems to me to be the next evolution of tubular <gulp>. I did consider tubular, however I liked the slightly wider radius (36 and 48 is what my space would allow) and choices in switch sizes.
- Luther
If I were starting from scratch, I'd probably choose Fastrack. I have some that I've used for temporary layouts and have been very pleased with it. Only downside to Fastrack (for me) is no O-31 or O-27 curves for use on my door-top temporary layouts.
I would not buy any more Realtrax. I've had some problems with this year's Christmas layout. Rails do not line up well (yes, track is connected properly). Fastrack rails line up right every time.
As I already have a sizeable collection of tubular, I'd probably try to acquire some really good postwar switches (O22s for my O gauge track, 1121's for my O-27) and some O-42 curves.
traindaddy1 wrote: If, cost was absolutely no factor in your decision, what type of track would you buy? (Based on quality, appearance and performance not based on any personal bias -- like me who is a tubular fan) As always, many thanks.
You know, some folks are tubular fans for reasons of quality, appearance, and performance, so the terms of your poll are invalid.
The answer also depends, as some have ntoed, on intended purpose. For my son's hollow core door layout, I used O27 track and would not change that no matter how much money I had. If I had the room to use a 36" door, I'd use Marx O34, an O27 derivative.
For the display layout I take to shows, I use O27 (in 27" and 42") as well to maximize number of tracks on a 4x8.
For the main layout at home, I used Gargraves because I needed flextrack for the curves. If cost were no object, I'd consider Atlas, but I am not happy with the flimsy nature of their rail joiners.
For my Standard Gauge layout, I use traditional tubular, not Gargraves. SG trains are unabashedly tinplate and need the look of tubular track. You may call that decision "personal bias," but it is an aesthetic choice.
For our On30 line, I use On30 Peco. I am not detered by the tie length or spacing, I like the code 100 rail (as opposed to ME's On30 track), and the switches are the most operator friendly in On30.
Tubular.the fact that you can cut and match is my most important need.
Ed
I was thinking about this the other day. How do you paint your Fastrack to make it look better??
Being a hi-railer, I prefer more realistic track. I would recommend Atlas, however, their switches have conductivity issues that are inexecusable given the cost. If I had to start over, I would go with Gargraves or Scaletrax.
Regards,
JO
otftch (Ed) and possibly others:
1. There are charts available that permit quite a few exotic lengths to be created out of stock sizes of FasTrack;
2. It is possible to custom-cut FasTrack to any length necessary to within 1/32 inch, if you are the least bit handy with tools -- dead-bang on if you are good.
Perhaps the best way to do this is two make two cuts, not just one. That is, cut a chunk out of the middle* of a piece of track and glue the ends back together. Then solder jumpers under the track to restore good electrical connectivity.
For some very creative ideas of what can be done with FasTrack I recommend the FasTrack forum on Yahoo. You have to register to be able to read the posts ("messages") but there is no cost involved and it's well worth it, IMHO.
*Note (edit) this two-cut technique is not mine, but I can't recall where I learned it. If anyone knows please post it as somebody deserves the credit for a very bright idea.
coalcracker wrote: I was thinking about this the other day. How do you paint your Fastrack to make it look better??
Here is my painted FasTrack.
I used a wash of black acryllic paint to darken the roadbed and bring out the detail of the molded ballast.
Jim
Ross switches and Ross track.
No one offers the switch variety that Ross does. On my new layout, I've gone with Ross switches and Gargraves track.
I have no complaints and am very happy with this combination.
ogauge wrote: Jim, your track looks great, but just to be clear, did you only put a wash on the plastic roadbed? Have you painted the sides of your rails rust colored like some do? It looks like the ballast wash gives more bang for the time in appearance than painted the risl would?
A Day Without Trains is a Day Wasted
I use FasTrack on my small year-'round layout. In fact, it's the main reason I even built a permanent layout. On my Christmas layout I use Gargraves sectional, because O32 is my max, considering the space I have. On our "club" modules, we all use Gargraves wooden tie flex track, and we add the ballast.
In my opinion, FasTrack may be the single most important product to take the "starter set" folks to "full time hobby" status. Lionel did not have any idea of how popular it would become. Looking at the catalog that introduced it, they were clearly thinking "starter set ONLY".
Jim's great layout in CTT clearly shows that FasTrack is not just for "carpet running". Joe
"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks
Charter Member- Tardis Train Crew (TTC) - Detroit3railers- Detroit Historical society Glancy Modular trains- Charter member BTTS
Doug Murphy 'We few, we happy few, we band of brothers...' Henry V.
If cost were no issue what track would one buy...
What I purchased was decided by the final look I desired the layout to have as a whole. Tubular track was the answer for me.
When I was working with layout software to develop track plans for the space I have, I tried various types and brands of track. Each type/brand made the layout look slightly different with the layout software because each brand had slightly different radius for switches and curves.
In the end I selected the type of track that reflected both the look I wanted for the layout as a whole, and the shape of the layout I found most pleasing.
Chris
If cost was not an issue I would use Ross Custom switches and GarGraves track for my whole layout. No overhang issues with GarGraves or Ross switches and switch motors are easy to replace while leaving the track intact even at the switch. Also Ross and GarGraves switches look more realistic than most other brands of switches. Another thing about GarGraves track is that you can cut it and use it by just putting in track pins, may have to smooth the rails after cutting.
Fastrac looks nice but is radius limited and you have to buy small fitter pieces to fit it to your layout.
Lee F.
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