RIP Chewy - best dog I ever had.
Celebrating 18 years on the CTT Forum.
Buckeye Riveter......... OTTS Charter Member, a Roseyville Raider and a member of the CTT Forum since 2004..
Jelloway Creek, OH - ELV 1,100 - Home of the Baltimore, Ohio & Wabash RR
TCA 09-64284
There is a little spring in there - very little!
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=694
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=700
Before lubing, clean any gunk out of the hinge pin area. I lube with Labelle oil, but graphite lube probably is better.
If lubing doesn't help, the problem likely is due to a weak or broken spring. Before removing the hinge pin, take some time to figure out how you're going to peen the new pin in place. Reduces the frustration factor - DAMHIK.
Here's how I replace a spring:
I put the coupler upside down on a wood surface with clearance for the knuckle pin to come out. I drive the pin out with an ice pick--the old slender kind, not a fat modern one. The ice pick follows the pin through the hole and keeps everything in place. I remove the ice pick, knuckle, and defective spring. If needed, I gently compress the riveted end of the pin with smooth-jawed pliers until it can be forced back into place with a little finger pressure. I put the new spring onto the pin. The straight end goes inside the coupler body. The bent end extends across the opening of the coupler. I put the knuckle hinge against the side of the pin, with the spring slid to the top of the pin. I carefully withdraw the pin, sliding it along the knuckle hinge. When it just clears the top of the hinge, I move the knuckle into place, while the last little bit of the pin keeps the spring securely in place. I push the pin back in, through the knuckle hinge and all the way through to the bottom of the coupler body. Finally, I spread the riveted end of the pin with a center punch, but not tight, instead, just enough to keep it from falling out. This makes it easier to remove the next time.
If you happen to bend or otherwise damage the pin, use a new one. But I find that I almost always can reuse the old one, which often has a different head appearance than the replacement.
Often this job can be done without removing the truck from the car.
Bob Nelson
Unless you've got a well stocked train shop that handles Post-War repairs, or a decent train show coming soon, you'll likely need to go online. My personal preference has been Jeff at the Train Tender:
http://www.ttender.com/
I've always called him to order parts rather than using email - keeps any confusion to a minimum.
If you've got a fair number of PW cars, you'll probably be better off to look at ordering a bulk pack (listed in the wholesale section). Also order some pins, in case you bugger up the original.
It would likely pay to take a few moments to contemplate what else you might be needing PW repair-wise, and place one larger order (such as sliding shoes & rivets, horseshoe clips, brushes, etc).
A few tips Jim,
Order a few more springs than needed, for it is almost inevitable that you will drop one of these tiny little things (and I mean tiny) onto the floor, and you might never see it again. A few more cents for two or three more. If you do get them in great without losing any, then you will have some spares for the next car that needs them! Win-win situation!
Another tip
Pay attention to how the spring hooks up the the body of the coupler when taking off the knuckle. There are many ways the flip flop it wrong, but only one way will work. Take pictures if needed.
Hope this helps, and have a Merry Christmas.
Jim,
I buy a lot of post war rolling stock in all varieties of condition. I've found that many times, a stuck coupler will begin working with just a drop or two of oil. What I do is pull the pin down manually from the bottom and oil it while it's in the down position. I then oil the top and bottom of the coupler itself. Then, I rapidly open and shut the coupler by pulling the bottom down several times. This almost always cures the problem for me.
Jim
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
jaabat wrote: Jim,I buy a lot of post war rolling stock in all varieties of condition. I've found that many times, a stuck coupler will begin working with just a drop or two of oil. What I do is pull the pin down manually from the bottom and oil it while it's in the down position. I then oil the top and bottom of the coupler itself. Then, I rapidly open and shut the coupler by pulling the bottom down several times. This almost always cures the problem for me.Jim
Jim A,
I have done the same thing in the past, but after I found out about graphite lubrication, and realized that it would not drip on the track, I made the change.
Buckeye,
I have yet to experience the lubricating power of graphite. I'll have to find some. Thanks for the tip! It's nice to be able to learn and share knowledge here. I learn a heck of a lot more than I dispense!
jaabat wrote: Buckeye,I have yet to experience the lubricating power of graphite. I'll have to find some. Thanks for the tip! It's nice to be able to learn and share knowledge here. I learn a heck of a lot more than I dispense!Jim
LHS is where I found mine. Try it and see what you think. I have used it on the rotary beacon and to make switches mover easier, too. In fact, I think I first learned about it when someone was discussing the problems with the rotary beacon.
You're not gonna bring up the whole rotary beacon fiasco with me, are you, Buckeye?!! I mean, You'd think a guy with 2,700 posts would know how to wire a light bulb . . .
Here's a funny ending to that story. When I put the beacon away in its box the other day, I noticed that the wiring instructions were on the side of the box! HA! I'm going to hook it up on our perm. layout in the basement. Thanks John for sending me some eplacement parts! Yes - I'm the dumbest member of the OTTS - I can live with that!
I'll look for that graphite!
Dr. John wrote:Graphite powder can be purchased anyplace they make keys. Lowes, Home Depot, Wal Mart, etc. all carry it. It comes in a small tube and is very inexpensive.
For what it's worth, I use graphite and nothing else on couplers. The reason is not only to avoid oozing and dripping onto the rails, but also because, unlike oil or grease, it absolutely does not attract (and hold) gunk. I also use it on switches (turnouts) and other places that are subject to dust and grime.
Any auto parts store will have it also. (It is the traditional lubricant for locks, including automotive locks.)
You don't want to inhale the powder -- at least not in California where they have determined that absolutely everything causes something bad.
I suspect your spring is missing altogether, but hopefully not. One spring does not fit all.* Until you can get it replaced, if you need to, remember that you only need one coupler to work. That is, if the coupler on the next car works, you can still couple/uncouple to the car with the faulty unit.
For some time now I have been encouraging folks who use the Library at Olsen's to show their appreciation by buying parts from them. (I have no financial interest there, but I really like the Library and it has to cost them to keep it up.)
*Nor does one spring make a robin.
Graphite Powder - Last year I bought 2 tubes to "oil" the hinges on some doors. I left them on the kitchen counter. Our puppy (then) got them. I came home and found our fluffy white little doggie had a dark undercoating, black foaming mouth, and a smoking problem - everytime she chewed down on something in her mouth, little puffs of black "smoke" shot out!
Here is (I hope) a pic of Chewy on her second bath that afternoon:
Below should be a pic of her in her natural form!
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