attach track to blue styrofoam

[Anonymous]

Hi. Sorry if this has been answered already in this forum, I searched but could not find an answer.

I am building a tabletop layout and I am thinkin about attaching either 1" or 2" insulating foam sheets on top of the plywood. This may be an obvious question, but what is the best method for attaching the track to the styrofoam? Thanks!

[Buckeye Riveter]

[#welcome] to the CTT forum.
Here is an old posting that we just keep recirculating

QUOTE: Originally posted by Buckeye Riveter

Last year, Chief Eagles stopped by when he was in Wheeling, WV at the grand opening of the Cabela's store. He wanted to see what I was doing and how it performed. One of the advantages and disadvantages that I have is the slope of the ceiling reflects the sound out to the operator and viewers.

QUOTE: Originally posted by ChiefEagles

Talk to Buckeye. He has his layout on foam only [yes foam only]. He uses deck screws pushed into the foam and they will hold the track in place. He says they will hold it fine and the track will settle into the foam some after running trains on it. I've seen his layout and it works fine.

Here are some of his photos: [he will not mind and can share more of construction]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Buckeye Riveter

Thank you Chief for those kind words. [:)][:)] I know it is hard for you to say such benevolent statements about a YANKEE from Buckeye Land. [:D]

And now on to the foam. Yes, my whole layout sits on foam. It is high-density 2" foam purchased at Home Depot, one of my favorite stores. The foam sits on joists at approximately 16" spacing. On top of the high density foam sits the 1" white foam.
Again, the Chief is correct, I do use deck screw or drywall screws to hold the track to the foam. If you really have a problem holding to the foam, I use a plastic "Molly" type connection and low heat glue and imbed it. I wished I had taken a photo of this.

The main reasons I used foam were; 1. The layout is designed to move and 2. after shelling out my hard earned money for Railsounds, I wanted to hear it. [:)] The foam accomplished both goals.


My layout extension under construction will not use the 1" white foam overlay, since the two inch meets all the goals stated above.


Approx. same view of layout as above

Q: How do you walk on the layout?
A: I don't. I designed it so I could reach everything. My new addition will have hidden hatches inside the exposed loops. The cat has been know to walk on the layout and hide in the tunnel.

Q: Does it make wiring easier?
A: Much easier. I use an extra long drill bit (10”) and punch through the foam. No drilling required, as you need to do with wood.

Q: Over time does it deflect or sag?
A: We have not seen any sag in the foam. On my previous HO layout the plywood sagged all the time with the changes of moisture in the air.

Q: Where are the transformer and controls located?
A: Under the layout on a small shelf

Q: How much will it hold?
A: I might try to calculate that someday. [:)]

One other thing, if you look near the end of the book, How to Build Model Railroad Benchwork , by Linn Westcott, published by Kalambach, he just starts to touch on the subject on the use of foam. This book is usually found in most decent hobby stores.

The MTH RealTrax is attached very securely to the foam with deck screws. If you want to make the attachment even more secure, paint the area beneath the track with a white glue-water mixture. This mixture just makes the foam a little stronger.

[Big_Boy_4005]

The fact that you are using plywood as a base suggests that screws are the fastener of choice. Is there a reason why you want to use 1" or 2" foam? Thinner sheets are available, and would facilitate the use of shorter screws.

I am using 1/2" foam as a roadbed, and have found an interesting type of screw at Home Depot. It is a 1 5/8" "trim head" screw. It looks like a drywall screw, but has a much smaller head. As a result, it requires a #1 square drive. I am using these with Gargraves track. By predrilling and counterboring, they are almost invisible.

You won't be able to see it in the photo as it appears here in the forum, but there is a screw in the first tie on the foam near the center of the shot, between the top and center rails.



I suppose you could use some kind of glue if you decide to keep with the thicker foam. An acrylic or silacone caulk would work.

[Jim Duda]

...and here is yet another option: First though, I don't know how it would work on a large layout but it sure seems to work on my small one. I chose Woodland Scenics FOAM roadbed that comes in a 25 foot roll and is pre-bevelled to simulate ballast. I used 3/4 ply with a 1 inch styrofoam layer on top, then white glued the WS roadbed to the foam. It definitely is QUIET!

My track is K-Line Shadow Rail which has 18 ties per section so it grips the foam better than regular 3 ties per section track. I thought I would need screws on each track section to make sure they wouldn't slip and slide around. But...guess what? The ties embed themselves just enough into the foam to anchor it sufficiently that after a year or so, the track HAS NOT SHIFTED even 1/32 of an inch! Again, mine is only a 3' X 8' plan and I don't run long trains. Without that foam roadbed I'm sure I would have had to use screws and I probably would have used the above suggested methods.

Click the pic...

[ChiefEagles]

Planning to do like buckeye, just stick the screws into the foam. His has worked well.