Seayakbill I have half a dozen engines with protosounds and all of them lost their minds. Penny Trains, if those PS-1 locos are dead due to a discharged battery or scrambled chip you can repair them at a fairly low cost. You can get the MTH repair chip kit that costs about $25 that can be used over and over again. Unscramble the chip in the loco add a new battery and you are set to go. Takes about 10 minutes to accomplish and is very easy to do.
I have half a dozen engines with protosounds and all of them lost their minds.
Penny Trains, if those PS-1 locos are dead due to a discharged battery or scrambled chip you can repair them at a fairly low cost. You can get the MTH repair chip kit that costs about $25 that can be used over and over again. Unscramble the chip in the loco add a new battery and you are set to go. Takes about 10 minutes to accomplish and is very easy to do.
Tried it, didn't work.
I even went so far as to have a friend who works at the Rockwell Systems Automation lab here in Cleveland hack the boards to try and debug the software. Even the experts there couldn't diagnose the problem.
So, I either install bridge rectifiers in them, or hard wire the motor to the pick-ups and run on DC.
Becky
Trains, trains, wonderful trains. The more you get, the more you toot!
Becky, You could add the bridge rectifiers Then recreate vsmith’s picture on his post. Thak looks like fun. Kev.
Becky,
You could add the bridge rectifiers Then recreate vsmith’s picture on his post. Thak looks like fun.
Kev.
Joined 1-21-2011 TCA 13-68614
Kev, From The North Bluff Above Marseilles IL.
If you actually want decent functionality, you could also use an inexpensive electronic E-Unit. I've never seen one of those fail, and I've abused a bunch of them.
Kev --
Your stereotype of new stuff, IMO, seems a bit slanted and mostly undocumented from your own experiences. I have both old and new stuff and I've been running the old stuff for 38 years and the new stuff 15 years. I like the new stuff because of all the bells and whistles and the opportunities to utilize those components every time I fire them up.
My personal experiences in the last 15 years, with MTH PS 1 & PS 2, not one failure, nada, nicht, zero. With that said, run what you prefer and feel comfortable with. I'll never say "the new stuff is better" or "the old stuff is better", it's all about preferences (feelings) and they're all OK.
Like I told our sons when things were tough, "be happy with what you have", and thankfully, that is their lifestyle today and it makes me feel good. I'm OK with you preferring the old stuff, not a problem. Just run 'em and celebrate our opportunities in this society to have wonderful choices
Jon
So many roads, so little time.
Guess we all have a stereotype jonadle, I have been running the old stuff off and on for 51 years if that counts for anything. New stuff only 1.5
I am okay with yours but I can't share your good times with my moderen trains. Spend all you like on them I don't have the budget. Just me,
I also ride a 1975 Triumph Trident 750 with an 867 kit since it was new. Been all over the country and my butt is leather. Just like the old stuff.
To each his own as this thread has shown. It is not just me! It is when I see posts like this I get driven away from spending my money on the newer stuff.
Haven't heard anything from Atlas yet on the two loco's sent in for repair. Still have two more to go in for repair, one Lionel & one MTH.
I am with you on celebrate our opportunities in this society where we have wonderful choices
Becky, when you pulled the scrambled chip and inserted the descrambler chip when you applied power to the loco what happened. For all 6 locos not to respond to the descrambler chip tells me that there is something else going on with the locos.
Bill T.
KRM I also ride a 1975 Triumph Trident 750 with an 867 kit since it was new. Been all over the country and my butt is leather. Just like the old stuff.
gunrunnerjohn KRM: I also ride a 1975 Triumph Trident 750 with an 867 kit since it was new. Been all over the country and my butt is leather. Just like the old stuff. Sure, but everywhere you park it, there's a puddle of oil!
KRM: I also ride a 1975 Triumph Trident 750 with an 867 kit since it was new. Been all over the country and my butt is leather. Just like the old stuff.
It is actually nothing compared to the older Harleys I have parked next to. I have tried to keep up with that. The tridents are not as bad as the old twins. Kev.
It is actually nothing compared to the older Harleys I have parked next to. I have tried to keep up with that. The tridents are not as bad as the old twins.
Seayakbill Tried it, didn't work. Becky, when you pulled the scrambled chip and inserted the descrambler chip when you applied power to the loco what happened. For all 6 locos not to respond to the descrambler chip tells me that there is something else going on with the locos.
It's been a long time, but I recall a few strange noises and not much more.
i too own a 681 Kev...and with a bit of routine lube on engine and tender (with whistle) they still run as good as they did in the 50's!!! i have owned a few 'modern' locos...and sold them on ebay after a short time. on the other hand, i do have a 70's something 8471 PRR nw2 switcher with a pullmor motor...and a 8352 santa fe around the same vintage again with pullmor motor. i have found the later dc "can motors " to be quite powerful in dual drive units...but nothing beats the sound of a pullmor loco crawling up to speed ,at least in my book. also,if anyone else takes time to notice...pick up a 50's model freight car...in one hand compared to the same 'modern era' version...not hard to feel the difference!!!
Kev,
It isn't just you. I've had problems from Lionel, MTH, and Williams. They have been minor and few and far between, but it still can be aggrevating.
The worst was when Lionel reissued the 342 culvert loader in late 1998 after several delays. Mine was replaced within the first week, then the replacement went in for warranty work at least five times. The reissued 345 unloader did better with no issues, but nothing beats the original 342 mated with an original 345. No overcomplicated optical sensors and can motors, and no problems once they are brought into adjustment if needed. Just the hum of a well tuned vibrotor and smooth, efficient operation.
"Kev,
Ease of assembly???!!! Tell that to the auto mechanic who has to rip apart half the engine to change a water pump, or the poor hobbyist trying to replace a smoke unit in a brand-new-design locomotive. If any industries' design engineers were forced to diagnose and repair their own creations, we would live in a whole different world.
Larry"
I worked engineering and mechanics, moved into automobiles, and what Kev said was right.
Assembly....as on the assembly line. If they can assemble the engine complete, then drop the body on, not care is given for changing parts once the body is dropped on.
As far as modern electronics, MTBF, Mean Time Before Failure. They know what is designed into the unit, but won't ever tell you.
I have a friend who, when he wants a new "specific road name) loco for his HUGE HiRail pike, orders it from the local hobby shop with the stipulation that they gut it and install a Dallee DCRU before they call him, and that they not charge him for the conversion. They get to keep the control system.
His railroad runs flawlessly.
In 15-16 years, one solder joint on the centre rail of the GarGraves failed, and one under-table Tenshodo switch machine died.
In all those years.
Anything I get is gutted and simpled.
It works.
Curmudgeon "Kev, Ease of assembly???!!! Tell that to the auto mechanic who has to rip apart half the engine to change a water pump, or the poor hobbyist trying to replace a smoke unit in a brand-new-design locomotive. If any industries' design engineers were forced to diagnose and repair their own creations, we would live in a whole different world. Larry" I worked engineering and mechanics, moved into automobiles, and what Kev said was right. Assembly....as on the assembly line. If they can assemble the engine complete, then drop the body on, not care is given for changing parts once the body is dropped on. As far as modern electronics, MTBF, Mean Time Before Failure. They know what is designed into the unit, but won't ever tell you. I have a friend who, when he wants a new "specific road name) loco for his HUGE HiRail pike, orders it from the local hobby shop with the stipulation that they gut it and install a Dallee DCRU before they call him, and that they not charge him for the conversion. They get to keep the control system. His railroad runs flawlessly. In 15-16 years, one solder joint on the centre rail of the GarGraves failed, and one under-table Tenshodo switch machine died. In all those years. Anything I get is gutted and simpled. It works.
Hey TOC good to read you online again, havent read you in ages it seams, hope to see you posting more often
Have fun with your trains
I was directed over here from emmmmmarrrrr. I re-activated the basement railroad after it lay dormant for 18-20 years. Been too busy with other stuff, now that those other things have stopped, took almost 1/8" of dust off the locos and track. Scotchbrited the GarGraves, cleaned and lubed the locos, turned the ZW on, signal lights came on, Tenshodo machines still all functioned, locos run (including the General Models NW2 (vertical motor) and the All-Nation NW2 (horizontal motor), same shells.
Dallee ACRU's in them, 25 years ago, no batteries to die, no chips to scramble....they just run.
2343's, don't need no sound system. Have a set of bronze FT's, Wentzco, I think, mated to a set of 2343 frames (and motors), will pull your teeth out.Now to fix the missing 12 feet of railroad by making it 50, add the 2-rail above it....
Oh, and on the Triumph oil leak.
British vehicles NEVER leak oil. They mark their territory.
I know.
I drive an old Jag.
I re-activated the basement railroad after it lay dormant for 18-20 years.
If you have the ability would like to see pictures of your process in getting the railroad operational again.
Curmudgeon,
Good to hear you are doing some re-activation on you old layout. Some pictures would be nice to view.
I also have a General Models Corp.NW2 WOB. You don’t hear much about them. I would like to know more. I have seen one web site but that is about it and how some think it was used for a model for the Lionel catalog version. Do you know how many were made? Mine is a great and strong runner but loves the elect juice and is sort of slow but fine with me.
As for my 1975 Triumph Trident it is garage trained and will not leak in the garage. It will after a long ride leave a small territory marking next to anything-late model or with a functioning electrical starter. I must admit these days that I could get to like an electrical starter. The bike came with one but when I installed the big bore kit it could not turn it over.
Tks,
Kev
Curmudgeon Oh, and on the Triumph oil leak. British vehicles NEVER leak oil. They mark their territory. I know. I drive an old Jag.
I'm in too, in both the Luddite and British-car clubs. I have gutted modern locomotives; and I own a 1962 Volvo-Jensen P1800.
Bob Nelson
Bob,
I am not ready to join the Luddite club and start smashing all of the new stuff but,
Just the old Trident for me. Got it new in Nov of 1975 for $2175.75
Have restored two others since then one my son now drives and one I sold two years ago.
The black one is the last one I restored, in the restoration process that sold two years ago.
Here she is.
When I was in high school about 50 years ago I had a BSA motorcycle. Folks tell me that I should have kept it. I can't remember the size of it, similar to a 250 or 350 I guess.
As someone who is coming back to the hobby after 10 years I am using what have for a while until I get more reacquainted with my modest rr empire. With a young family and other responsibilities buying new Lionel or MTH is out of the question. Maybe a Williams by Bachmann switcher and s-2 turbine.
I am all conventional and will probably stay that way. With all the problems and aftermarket work everyone seems to have to do on the new stuff from what I read on this forum, it's discouraging and not worth the time, effort, or $,$$$ for me to invest in Legacy or DCS systems and engines at this time. This is just my 2 cents.
My interest has been rekindled by my two children ages 4 and 7 and right now conventional operation keeps them quite excited as is.
Seayakbill When I was in high school about 50 years ago I had a BSA motorcycle. Folks tell me that I should have kept it. I can't remember the size of it, similar to a 250 or 350 I guess.
Still looking for how to attach photos. Forums have all changed since I was here last.
My Jag is an oddity in the US, as they didn't like to import them. I have a 1964 MK2, RHD, but not the 3.4L or 3.8L engines imported, but rather the UK (engine size taxation) 2.4L with twin Solex downdraughts.
On thee GM and A-N NW's, they made the die-cast (thin wall) shells right up to the end, oh, 2003?
Early units had a vertical motor in front truck, all one piece. Later used the horizontal motors with standard A-N power trucks, but with tinplate wheels, non-insulated.
I even have a couple of field-wound AC motors in a box for horizontal units.
Dave
sure wish I had it today, the suckers
Yep, I think we all can say that. Along with the BSA I also had a 56 Chevy Nomad. Got the greetings letter from President Johnson and sold both of them, didn't want to store them for 2 years. Dumb, dumb, dumb.
I am with you Bill,
Think I said this before on the forum but I had a 1969 Shelby GT350. Moved out of the house and the INS was so high I traded it in on a new 1972 AMC Gremlin Dumb, dumb
Have you still got the Gremlin? Now there's a classic!
Bet the guy with the Shelby is grinning till this day,,,,,
Jack
IF IT WON'T COME LOOSE BY TAPPING ON IT, DON'T TRY TO FORCE IT. USE A BIGGER HAMMER.
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