Wonder if someone can help me....
I have a Lionel SP Atlantic that has a smoke problem. When I first got it, it filled the room with smoke. Then it just stopped. I tried adding some smoke fluid, but nothing.
I took it in for service at a Lionel Service Shop and the smoke generator was replaced. I brought it home, but still no smoke although I could smell it and see just a wiff hovering inside the stack. Also, if I blow into the stack, smoke comes out the sides.
I took it back and was told that I over loaded the smoke generator with fluid, They said they cleaned it out and it was working. They told me not to add any fluid, as the generator was overloaded with fluid. It smoked a little when I tried it, but the next day, stopped again.
Anyone have any thoughts on the subject? Thanks.
i dont like lionel smoke units. they tend to be very touchy. i have a pennsy steam with tmcc and the smoke comes out the sides of the engine more then the top. but i live with it knowing its not a mth.i also have a conventional sd70 lionel that i overloaded and ran the hell out of it and now it smokes just fine. i just watch how much i put in it now.
Personally, I'd open it up and check it's condition myself. I've had several smoke units that had burned wicks from being run dry before I got them. I replaced the wick and they worked much better. I also have the 1688E Torpedo (TMCC remake) that came stock with one anemic sleeve of fiberglass around the heater, it was an anemic smoker. I added batting and it works much better now.
I just obtained this exact locomotive. I had to replace the wick, what is put in by the factory is pretty lame. Cut the sleeve off the smoke resistor and pack with new wick, discard the old.
I use Tiki torch wick in mine, smokes 100% better now.
Is this a fan-driven or a mechanical?
Jon
I have the Lionel Northern Pacific Atlantic and it has always been very anemic in the smoke output. If you look real close you will see a very faint stream of smoke. Other than that a great running steamer.
Bill T.
Kooljock1 Is this a fan-driven or a mechanical?
Yes it would. I'd begin by cutting off the sock on the resistor. Replace the wicking with either the new stuff from Lionel, or Tiki Torch wick. Then make sure the air holes are clear so that the bellows are pumping air through the chamber.
I did all that and mine smokes better. Not like a fan driven smoker mind you, but better. :)
Kooljock1 Yes it would. I'd begin by cutting off the sock on the resistor. Replace the wicking with either the new stuff from Lionel, or Tiki Torch wick. Then make sure the air holes are clear so that the bellows are pumping air through the chamber. Jon
This man knows what he is saying.
God bless TCA 05-58541 Benefactor Member of the NRA, Member of the American Legion, Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville , KC&D Qualified
gunrunnerjohn.
When you say you pack with new wick what exactly do you do? Do you cut the Tiki torch wick into small pieces and pack it on the smoke resistor leaving a space in the middle? Thanks Harold
Although the photos in the link below are of a fan blown smoke unit, you can see the parts the previous posters are talking abou including wicking materials that are burnt and are not working very well for Marty. I use pink fiberglass insulation for my wicking materials.
http://www.martye.com/TipsandTricks/TipsandTrick5.htm
Celebrating 18 years on the CTT Forum.
Buckeye Riveter......... OTTS Charter Member, a Roseyville Raider and a member of the CTT Forum since 2004..
Jelloway Creek, OH - ELV 1,100 - Home of the Baltimore, Ohio & Wabash RR
TCA 09-64284
lionelnut gunrunnerjohn. When you say you pack with new wick what exactly do you do? Do you cut the Tiki torch wick into small pieces and pack it on the smoke resistor leaving a space in the middle? Thanks Harold
also check the check ball in the piston, if it is stuck you will get less puff. also the pivot holes on the arm that pushes the piston up tend to wear, reducing the pivot action giving less lift to the piston. the pivot hole is a split circle, a little squeeze with a needle nose pliers will tighten the hole up and give better action. this wear is also the main culprit for the "missing chuff syndrome". the lack of pivot does not allow the chuff switch to be hit properly every time
Good point on the pivot points, I noticed that on an older locomotive. I would hope new stuff wouldn't have worn out, but maybe it was run a lot.
the bracket is aluminum and gets the heck beat out of it everytime you run the train, with or without smoke. probably never gets lubricated either. then we go to lifter under the bracket that is actuated by a cam on the axle, another wear point at the cam where lube is forgotten. I have made slightly longer lifters and replaced the origionals to give me more puff.
Longer lifters sound interesting, do you have any pictures of that modification? More smoke output from those old puffers is always a good mod.
John, I don't have any pics. I removed the old one and cut a new one from hard rock maple. you have to make it long enough to replace the slack space from the old one. a little trial and error.
Kooljock1 I'd begin by cutting off the sock on the resistor.
I'd begin by cutting off the sock on the resistor.
Howdy all. Just to be clear on this, I opened up my smoker and I didn't see anything on the resistor. The resistor has brown insulation and seems to sit right on top of the wick. Did I miss anything?
Thanks!
Bill S.
I think that brown insulation may be what is left of the sock. see if you can scrape it off, be gentle
Yep, the resistor should have exposed windings, the "brown insulation" sounds like the burnt fiberglass sleeve.
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