Servoguy is spot on in his statements about the different types of friction. Static friction is higher than sliding friction and viscous friction is speed dependant.
The MoS2 additive has molyibdnium and sulfer - both are common additives to improve the extreme pressure performance of a lube. Other common EP additives are zinc, chlorine, and lithium. As a sidebar type comment, modern automative engine oils have greatly reduced the amount of zinc based additives. This is not good news for older engines with non-roller valve tappets. A better choice would be oils designed for diesel engines such as the Shell Rotilla series which have a better EP additive package.
I was working from memory in my comments about the way multi-viscosity oils work. I'll have to do a little research and refresh my memory.
I've got some more lube trials coming up at work this month. While I'm working with the various vendor reps., I'll discuss the subjects brought up in this thread and get their input.
Interesting discussion on this thread.
It is still my opinion that the amount of lube is just as important as the type - too little is bad, and too much is bad.
The EP characteristic of lubes is very important on sliding surfaces - worms especially on the models. You want to be sure the lubricant is present as a barrier between meeting metal parts. Newer synthetics w/ molybdenum formulas would be ideal for trains used a lot, or stored for years at a time or never serviced for decades. The film from these lubes is super slippery and clings to the surfaces, even if appearing dry in many cases.
I have always like the Lucas red lithium grease since first using it, and again each time I look at equipment that was serviced years ago with Red 'N Tacky #2.
Rob
5W-20 is 5 "weight" oil that, due to additives, holds the same properties as 20W oil at high temps. Doesn't get thicker. Take it from a retired fleet manager of over 9K vehicles of all types.
Interesting fact: Ran a test on 1 ton courier vans. Amzoil, changed filters and added one quart every 5K and sent an oil sample to lab. At 75 K, lab said still did not need to change oil. Why didn't we go with all of the fleet using Amzoil? Could not justify the price when you get filters and oil on contract at a "steal". It made me a believer in synthetic oils and grease. Run it in my 2 cycle high performance outboard [mix with fuel and in lower unit]. Picked up 500 RPMs.
God bless TCA 05-58541 Benefactor Member of the NRA, Member of the American Legion, Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville , KC&D Qualified
Kinda makes ya wonder if we shouldn't be using synthetic oil and/or grease for our engines. If they would reduce the friction, it would be a good thing.
BTW, someone made a comment about lubing the pickup rollers. IMHO, you should always lube the pickup rollers, and I will tell you for sure that engine oil will not get gummy on these rollers.
Bruce Baker
I use synthetics, and I lube some rollers. No problems, and the cost is bare-bones compared to "hobby specific" products. I do a lot of maintenance, due to numbers & hours, not mechanical issues.
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