Cheapest way to add weight?

[Boyd]

Whats the "cheapest" way to add weight to freight cars? 

[Buckeye Riveter]

Boyd

Whats the "cheapest" way to add weight to freight cars? 

Probably the cheapest way is to use dirt or sand, but not the best.  Rocks would work.  Rocks are cheap, too.  You could go the re-cyling route and smash beer cans and use them.  Beer is not inexpensive so you would need to root through your neighbors garbage for old cans to make it economically feasible.  Your neighbor still owns a car, so another way would be to steal the lug nuts from the wheels.   Just don't get caught because this could very expensive if you had to go to court.  You did say you wanted cheap?

Fishing weights and some Glue Dots would work and be less messy but more expensive than dirt, sand or rocks.

[brianel027]

Boyd, you don't say WHY you want to add weight to freight cars, but I assume it is one of the two typical reasons that come up here: to help prevent derailments and/or to make cars operate insulated rails or weight-pressure contacts better.

But adding weight to freight cars puts more drag on the locomotive too. I've been aying this for a long time, but the BEST way to fix these problems is to drill out the rivets that hold the trucks to the car body. Then using either a silver truss screw (or blackened screw depending on whether it shows) and a lock (or stop) nut. You tightened the screw all the way, and then loosen it just enough so that the truck swivels to the left and right freely. Make sure you first remove any flashing created when drilling out the rivet.

I've been doing this for years and I absolutely guarantee this will nearly elimanate derailments 100% save for operator error (such as forgetting to throw a switch). I run light MPC cars at the lead of a train pulling much heavier cars with no derailments.... going forward or backing up.

The reason I do all this is to get rid of the "truck wobble" that is part of the rivet attachment of the trucks. This wobble is what can cause cars to derail, especially when backing up a train on 027 curves.

The only time I ever add weight now to rolling stock, is something that is illuminated with a roller pickup. And I use just a couple squares of lead automobile tire weights (self adhesive) over that truck, which does the trick. Where I do add weight is to locomotives, especially small ones. With the added weight, I can then remove the traction tires which just about elimates stalling. I have some real small locos like the MPC plastic bodied docksider, or the MPC 8500-series type 2-4-0 small steamer or the Lionel Industrial Switchers from the mid-1990's. I can now pull a dozen cars easily with any of these locos by adding weight to the loco. And these locos would never pull a dozen cars with postwar or diecast trucks as they originally were. But for me, they do now and with ease. I've had them pulling as many as two-dozen cars just in an experiment.

As far as getting insultated rail accessories to work better, cleaning the wheels goes a long way here. It will also help to lessen flicker of illuminated cars. A Dremel with a small wire brush makes quick work of this. For really grungy or dirty postwar wheels, remove the trucks and spray them with WD-40, letting that soak overnight. Next day, clean the trucks completely. Several ways to do this. You could use a strong liquid soap and with very hot water and a brush, scrub the trucks good and then rinse them. Then blow dry them immediately to prevent any rust from setting in.

And for concerns over wear on the motors, years ago I talked to a tech I knew who then worked for Lionel and he assured me it would not be a problem. The same Mabuchi DC motor in the Lionel Industrial Switcher was the same motor that was used in many larger traditional steamers with die-cast bodies. And he was right... it hasn't been a problem for me either.

BUT if you do want to add weights, going to an automotive parts supplier and buying a bunch of self-adhesive automotive tire weights is the way to go. They'll stay put even being adhered to the underside of a train car.

[jwse30]

 Don't know what kind of car you're adding weight to, but if it's reasonably enclosed (like a boxcar, hopper, or gondola), I've used rolls of pennies. Takes up more space than the lead weights mentioned above, but are cheaper. If you change your mind (or sell the car), you can get your money back too. It's kinda like an interest free loan for your railroad.

 

J White 

 

[brianel027]

J White, you got me beat there... that is a cost effective manner that really only costs pennies!

You know, there's another joke in there for the perceived worth (financial value) of their trains: the more you put into 'em, the more they're worth. I guess if you wanted to make sure you trains are worth something, you could use silver dollars.

[jwse30]

I hear that's what they use to weigh down the vision line.

 

 

J White

 

[lionelsoni]

Using prototype spikes appeals to me as somehow appropriate.  There's plenty of room inside a boxcar or baggage car, so the lesser density of iron compared to lead doesn't really matter; and they're easy to find.

[ChiefEagles]

Rocks from your yard.  Then, if you know a guy who owns a tire store, he might let you have used tire weights.  I use lead fishing weights.  Come in various sizes and can be added in small or large amounts.  I also buy the lead bars for melting for fishing weights.   

[butleryard]

 Drapery weights! They are flat and very inexpensive! Here is a link for various sizes.

 http://www.textol.com/d_items.asp?cat=04

[Buckeye Riveter]

butleryard

 Drapery weights! They are flat and very inexpensive! Here is a link for various sizes.

 http://www.textol.com/d_items.asp?cat=04

Excellent idea!!!     Then use glue dots to keep them from shifting around inside a car. 

[dougdagrump]

Fender washers, vary the size to increase or decrease weight, for cars where they can be easily hidden. Lead weights with foam tape for the cars that need to have them hidden on the chassis.

[Boyd]

 Well I now have 22 Lionel red CN 9013 hopper cars thanks to an ebay auction I got 3 from. I asked if he had more and he said he would sell me 10  more for $70 including shipping. #23 coming in april via Buy it now. These hoppers love to tip in the smaller curves. All 13 of these I got from the guy on ebay have metal wheels and a small washer just below the head of the Lionel plastic pin going to the truck. I have some lead weights leftover from some F350 duals I sold on ebay last year. But how safe is handling those weights? My mom works for a drapery company. My local Napa usually gives me a discount since I used to work there. As for pennies I have a container filled with about $75 in change. I'm sure theres enough pennies in there to weigh down a lot of cars. My tightest main line curves are 042. I  might just try removing the plastic center pin and drilling and bolting the truck to the car like Berk765 suggested. If I get the grade evened out, its about 1.8% but with an "S" curve near the top  where the engines usually stall.