Bridge addition... suggestions?

[clickmatch]

So I have my top deck:

I recently decided to add a reverse loop... because there's no  other place I can put it, I decided to do it on the upper deck. If you look at the image where the trestle is, I'm adding a swith track just before the bridge (closest to you in the image) then it turns right and runs parallel to the existing bridge, then joins back to the track on the right side of the image, forming a new loop back.

Decisions, Decisions. I was looking at this and this. Also debating if I could make some kind of double bridge and replace the existing bridge. I also thought about making it look like a rock/natural bridge. Ideas, suggestions? What would you do? 

[Anonymous]

Click,
I have the same dilemma going on with my layout - I have room for a single track bridge, but really like the look of a two track bridge...

This would give you the look of the bridge in pic two:
https://secure.atlasrr.com/ato1/itemdesc.asp?CartId={C0EA3D08-CABA-412A-BAEF-2CA64EVERESTA0A1457}&ic=6923&eq=&Tp=

Or
http://www.thetrainshoppe.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=23_24_76&products_id=947&osCsid=f0d12b8c6429af975bfac2

http://www.thetrainshoppe.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=23_24_76&products_id=949&osCsid=f0d12b8c6429af975bfac2

I don't think you have the distance for the Atlas Double Track Pratt Bridge:
https://secure.atlasrr.com/ato1/itemdesc.asp?CartId={C0EA3D08-CABA-412A-BAEF-2CA64EVERESTA0A1457}&ic=6921&eq=&Tp=

or the MTH Double Track Steel Arch bridge:
http://www.enginehousehobbies.biz/40mtho2trsta.html

[clickmatch]

Hrm, thanks Brent. That gives me some ideas. I like the look of the steel girder. I'm wondering if I'll end up just building something from scratch. Main issue being that both edges are at odd angles. I might try to build some kind of wooden trestle. My first step is to verify I have enough track and can get the switches to work, then I'll go from there.

[clickmatch]

That last bridge I found on here for a bit less... but of course, it's back ordered. I have to go measure and see what I'm looking for in more exact terms. I could probably widen the gap, but I'll probably end up building my own as this is a very wide section due to to the position of the switch track.

[clickmatch]

This page, by the way, is awesome. =)

I want to build me a suspension, trussed through arch or a solid ribbed arch. I'm going to go to Michael's and look at mterials and start drawing ideas on sketch paper. Whoooo, fun.

[clickmatch]

So has anone here built a custom bridge? Just curious. I'd be neat to see what materials or any experiments you conducted to construct it.

[kpolak]

This page, by the way, is awesome. =) 

I just found this this am as well!  Great resource!  How about a Lionel Arch under bridge in the front?  About $20.

Kurt

[clickmatch]

I'm leaning toward suspension because I have track on the bottom deck there, right side. That kind of bridge would collide with my train. =P

[lionelsoni]

I propose a single-track through plate girder bridge, like the Lionel 314, in front of the truss bridge.  I think these two types of typical railroad bridges side-by-side would make an interesting contrast; and neither would compromise the space below.  This is also a likely prototypical combination where a second track was added some time after the original bridge was built.

[clickmatch]

Yes, well there's another kicker. On the lower deck just below the top bridge deck is another river crossing, perpendicular to the top deck bridge... where I have a gray 314.

This is why I was leaning toward suspension. I measured the area I'd need if it were a "dual" bridge, and came up with 24"x"11", which is huge. That would end up looking like a platform, ie, ubelieveable, so I'm now leaning back towards a natural (but man made carved) look, or may build my own pony truss. 

[anjdevil2]

I built my own bridge....sort of cheated, though...

I had 2 G gauge bridges and 1 from the Pennsy Flyer.  I attached them with Plasticstruc "I" beams and used Permatex gel CA to attach all three together.  I initially used tubulare track to have a prototypical look.  It didn't work as well as I had hoped, replaced the track with Fastrack and double sided tape.  This did 2 things:  it straightened out the roadway and gave it more strength, due in large part to the plastic roadbed.  It held up really well during Christmas.

[clickmatch]

Cool... yea... kitbashing counts!

[clickmatch]

Ugh.... one of my RH 112 switches gives off no evidence of functioning... at all. I guess i can poke and prod it, but they are pretty much the most mysterious of track accessories to me. Anyone have quick tips on what to check first? Or things 'Not to do'?

I'd hate to open it up for example then find out I made it worse. 

[lionelsoni]

When an electrical gadget fails utterly, there's a good chance that it's something simple that is wrong.

Are you running it from the track voltage or from a separate accessory supply?

[Buckeye Riveter]

 This is how it is done on the NS. 

[clickmatch]

Are you running it from the track voltage or from a separate accessory supply?

The track. Part of that issue is I know there's the magic screw on there but I don't know how to manually run power to it (the dedicated option). I was thinking about trying to figure that one out... see if there's a dead spot in the track. Is that what you are thinking?

@Buckeye:

That bridge looks awesome. Only issue I have is the track isn't close enough together. I'll have to see if I can rework it. Problem being I'm on a curve and the track turns right in the same directon of the curve. I'll have to experiment a little. 

[lionelsoni]

Do you have some way to test the track voltage right at the turnout, center rail to outside rail?

[ChiefEagles]

You have a CTT handy.  Last couple of issues, there has been an advertisement for for a company that builds custom bridges.  Even curved ones.  Can't "put my finger" on it right now [too sleepy].  Check it out.

[trigtrax]

You have a CTT handy.  Last couple of issues, there has been an advertisement for for a company that builds custom bridges.  Even curved ones. 

LOL!! That company is ME... Steeltoys.com and I not only build curved bridges but custom ones too, which I could tell you about but there's no advertising allowed here so I won't....

[clickmatch]

there's a good chance that it's something simple that is wrong.

You got it. I was only testing from the one side of the switch. I turned it around and it was getting power. Since I have feeders on my track this won't be an issue. I also cleaned a bit of paper/sticky junk out of the mecanism itself and now it's popping back and forth with a purpose!

 I'm going to see if I can rework the switches so they are both before the bridge. Alternately, I did rework the track so they now only require a "normal distance" for dual tracks. There's about 2-3 inches between them. So if I can't rework it I'll see if I can't get another bridge like I already have, and put them side by side.

[clickmatch]

So I made a basswood bridge which I'm going to paint as if it was metal. If any one have tips on how to make wood look like metal at this scale, certainly let me know!

It's this type:

 

Cost me about $13 at Michel's to buy the wood pieces. I used tacky glue to asseble it. It's 24" long and about 4.5" wide. Pictures soon (They are in my camera but I didn't have time to post them last night) 

[Anonymous]

Not sure I would make it look like metal.  Back in the late 1800s they still built truss bridges out of wood and some of these lasted into the 1900s. So you could just stain it and weather it?

If you must go metal, I would make sure to have sanded the edges so there is no sign of graining. Then I would primer it grey. Paint a dull black or anthracite. Then weather to look rusted.  It would then be more of an Iron bridge than a Steel bridge.

[clickmatch]

Well.. how commly do you see a wooden bridge right next to a metal one? I guess it would look like it was the "old" bridge. Esp. considering the one I built will be used only for the reverse loop. Of course, I could just go buy materials and add on another section and make it all one double bridge made of wood. Hrm.... too many options. 

[palallin]

Use sanding filler to eliminate as much of the grain as possible. 

If you start another on, use Plastistruct I- and H-beams to build it from and eliminate the wood.

 

 

[clickmatch]

So here's the most recent. I am making it a double wooden bridge... and here's the photos so far:

Posted here: http://www.clickmatch.com/trains/p6_scenery2.asp

But I'll link a couple direct. Here's what i have so far:

And there's the Google SketchUp model I did, and how it will look when completed:

Here's the layout mod to accommodate the double: