I was in Florence in 2004 and there was a 2-6-2 in the outskirts of the main station. It wasn't a derelict and looked usable. Also, the infrastructure of steam still exists. In almost every station I passed there were water columns at the ends of the passenger platforms. I imagine it's still like that today.
In Italy there are currently about 10-15 active steam locomotives running on the main line. The national rail network there lends itself well for passenger charter trains, as there is enough capacity to slot them in plus give them an attractive timetable without a lot of sitting around in sidings. Here are some pictures from 3 of them in action this past April. All are run by that national operator FSI, through its specialized heritage foundation.
https://newrailwayreport.blogspot.com
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