Hi to all, I have read all your comments and replies with great interest and would like to say thanks for some good inspiration. Its ages since I originally posted anything and my excuse is spending too much time trackside! If only that were completely true, I've also been changing jobs within the railway industry which has taken up alot of time.
I've just completed a 'winter shoot' where I've got through 5 rolls of 36 exp film. There will be a fair number of dud shots in there I don't doubt but I expect to get a fair few 'keepers'. So what did I shoot, well I visited both of my local freight yards and grabbed some roster shots of EMD JT26s and JT42s, I visited a passenger station that sits between two junctions offereing freight and passenger action on all four axis.
I was lucky to catch a large number of intermodals which are always photogenic with there variety of multi-colored containers and to spice things up a little, there was a fair amout of MoW equipment out there, auto-ballasters, tampers, regulators and an impressive bit of kit called the High Output Ballast Cleaner. It was largely sun and rain so many of these shots will have dark sky as a background which normally works for me.
All I have to wait for now is the railroad to pay me so I can get the stuff developed - Thanks again for all the comments guys. Looking forward to the summer and the Private Varnish!
Cheers
Dave Henwood
Chippenham
United Kingdom
Hi to all, I have read all your comments and replies with great interest and would like to say thanks for some good inspiration. Its agea since I originally posted anything and my excuse is spending too much time trackside! If only that were completely true, I've also been changing jobs within the railway industry which has taken up alot of time.
I've just completed a 'winter shoot' where I've got through 5 rolls of 36 exp film. There will be a fair number of dud shots in there I don't doubt but I expect to get a fair few 'keepers' So what did I shoot, well I visisted both of my local freight yards and grabbed some roster shots of EMD JT26s and JT42s, I visited a passenger station that sits between two junctions offereing freight and passenger action on all four axis.
All I have to wait for now is the railroad to pay me so I can the stuff developed - Thanks again for all the comments guys. Looking forward to the summer and the Private Varnish!
like I said before, those are pictures of models that I took outside, I got mixed up on what forum I was on.
-Tom
fuzzybroken wrote: Tomnoy: that second-to-last shot looks like a train headed for disaster!
Tomnoy: that second-to-last shot looks like a train headed for disaster!
I was wondering about that myself! It's like a scene from the dreams I used to have back when I was an Engineer.
fuzzybroken wrote: Anyways, back to the cloudy days... While clouds do make an effective "filter", I've found that there's still enough light coming from whatever direction the sun is hiding to make shadows of sorts. I've had plenty of less-than-satisfactory shots that I thought would turn out fine from the clouds, but those shadows...
Anyways, back to the cloudy days... While clouds do make an effective "filter", I've found that there's still enough light coming from whatever direction the sun is hiding to make shadows of sorts. I've had plenty of less-than-satisfactory shots that I thought would turn out fine from the clouds, but those shadows...
I know what you mean. The thing to consider is the thickness and altitude of the clouds. High-level (25000'+) are of the cirrus family, and are composed of ice crystals, and thus do not block the sun effectively. But they do make some spectacular optical treats (sun dogs, parahelia, etc). They are just enough to give most images a slightly washed-out appearance.
Lower clouds such as the alto type (10000 to 15000'), are composed of either water or ice, depending on the season. These tend to be thicker than the cirrus types. Frequently you can just barely see the sun through the clouds. These types usually do not produce precipitation; however, I have seen altostratus clouds produce snow.
The lowest in altitude clouds are the stratus types. These are found between 3000 and 10000'. These usually obscure the sun completely, and are the best for shadowless photography. The down side is that these types frequently produce precipitation, usually of the drizzle or steady light rain (or snow) type.
The clouds features in tomnoy3's photos are of the strato-cumulus types. These produce more of the hit-and-miss showers that annoy most photographers.
For me, the most interesting clouds are the cumulo-nimbus variety. Those are the thunderheads we see in the summer. These produce the severe storms and hail and tornadoes. These rarely form in winter.
Mark, I guess I was looking at the ModelRailroader and Trains forums in different tabs so I got them confused and thought this was a model rr post.
Tomnoy: that second-to-last shot looks like a train headed for disaster! Or, maybe just a normal day on the UP, according to some people...
JT42CWR wrote:I'm guessing that the singular advantage with cloud cover is that you don't have to worry about shadows or which side the sun will be shining?
I'm guessing that the singular advantage with cloud cover is that you don't have to worry about shadows or which side the sun will be shining?
While I have found this to be true some of the time, it isn't true all of the time. I used to take pictures almost exclusively on cloudy days, just so I didn't have to worry about shadows. But as I progressed a bit more, I started to really, really like those nice sunny days, and started figuring out the best place to be for those sunny shots.
Gotta agree with Railfan 1. Hard to mess up a snow shot unless your finger is covering the lens...don't ask.
Rainy weather generally keeps me away from being trackside. However, when I am on expedition and the weather is lousy, I get a devil-be-damned attitude and really knuckle down on composing my shots. Usually, I get that one shot that made it all worthwhile.
Railfan1 wrote:I agree with you there, autumn is a great time of year for photography with all of the foliage bringing out the background colors. I have seen some amazing work done in the fall season.
I've shot under all kinds of conditions, and there is no "best". It all depends on what you're after.
Rainy or heavily overcast days add moodiness to the shot, but can dull the colors and blend the highlights and shadows.
Shooting at high noon on a cloudless day can give you harsh shadows, and washed out highlights.
Evening light is usually warm, and the low angle can produce dramatic shadows. Morning light is usually cooler, but you still get the great shadows.
If you are familar with photographic techinque and the features of the camera, many of the desireable elements can be enhanced and undesireable elements can be reduced.
And of course you can change the look and feel of any picture using lens filters, and dark room magic (for those of us that remember lens filters, and dark rooms) or the programs of a digtal dark room.
I could turn night into day. Day into night. Sunny days into rainy ones. Or rainy days to sunny ones. Among other tricks.
Nick
Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/
Almost any weather can be used to great effect if you're careful.
The key to sunny days is to look for areas of low contrast, or otherwise scenes where the black shadows or blown highlights won't work to your detriment.
There are also various tricks to working with high contrast scenes to maintain detail. Film shooters might use zone system development with black and white to expand or reduce the contrast of the film according to the scene. Film shooters might also just use color print film and know that it can capture a huge range of luminance values. Digital shooters might use the high dynamic range function in Photoshop, although if overdone I think this can look fake.
Overcast days are, of course, great for their soft, flat, shadowless light.
Early morning and early evening are also great times to shoot, with lots of great warm light.
Just a couple of other comments:
Someone also mentioned that a typical film shooter might only get 1 or 2 great shots on a roll of film. I once heard this nicely summed up in something called "the rule of three" that goes something like this.
When shooting 100 digital shots, 1 36 exposure roll of 35mm film, 1 12 exposure roll of medium format film, or 3 sheets of film, the typical photographer will get three shots worthy of printing. My own experience tends to mirror this.
spikejones5200,
My guess is that your Promaster(store brand) zoom lens was probably made by Sigma. Certain older Sigma lenses do not work with more recent Canon cameras, both film and digital. Sigma reverse engineered the Canon lens mount, and Canon made a small change that caused Sigma's older lenses to no longer work on recent Canon bodies. Sigma has since corrected the problem, and can rechip older lenses, provided that they still have the parts in stock, to allow them to work on recent Canon cameras.
In general, third party EF mount lenses will work just fine on all Canon bodies, both film and digital. The handful of Sigma lenses are the exception.
I loved taking RR pictures with my 35mm Canon EOS. I used a Canon 35 to 135 mm zoom and a Promaster 100 to 300mm zoom.
But I could not afford the cost of prints and was disappointed when I did not get the shot I wanted.
I was totally excited when Canon Digital SLR Were able to use EOS lens.
I was going to buy the 8MP EOS until online I found out about the new 10Mp EOS.
I took my 35 to 135 lens to a store and tested the lens. Worked great.
On line I found a Canon EOS rebel XTi for 1/2 store and about the same price as the 8MP online.
I purchased the 10MP Xti.
Immediately after receiving the camer a and reading the manual (Thick). I shot several shots out my back window and walking arounds my yard with the 35 to 135 lens in AUTO. all shots were great.
Then I put on the 100 to 300 Promaster. Immediately I get an error message "99" on the view window. NO EXPLANATION in manual of what the error codes mean. The manual states to contact Canon for all Error messages.
I removed and replaced the lens on the camera. I checked it to make sure it was seated correctly.
I was able to take two pictures before I got the "99" error message again.
When You get an error message the camera locks up.
I removed the lens and cleaned the contacts. Still Errored.
I put on the 35 to 135mm. Camera worked good.
I E-mailed Canon and explained the problem in detail.
Canon E-Mailed back to send in the body and lens and they will correct it.
Cost me $20.00 to send it in.
A week later I received an E-Mail message that they see the problem and will correct it at no charge.
Two weeks later I received a letter stating the same. The next day I received my Camera body and lens back.
The letter inside they stated they corrected the problem.
A piece of paper wrapped around the lens stated.
"Not a Canon lens. They do not repair NON-Canon lens."
I put the lens on my 35 mm body. The lens works perfectly.
The Canon Digital body computer recognizes that you are not using a Canon and rejects it.
For great foggy/ mist shots, it has to be perfect condtions or your wasting your time.
There is no right answer to your question. It all depends on what you're looking for. F'rinstance, a foggy/misty day can bring great drama to an otherwise rather ordinary picture. Or ruin what could be a great shot, because you can't see much.
A thin overcast will lessen the contrast a bit, but too much overcast really flattens things out, light-wise and can be less than desirable. Or useful, as in if you are trying to shoot something that would otherwise require shooting into the sun.
Re: Digitals - The point-and-shoot digitals are the "Kodak Instamatics" of our day. On the other hand, if you pick up my Digital Rebel and apply your knowledge gained with film on a 35mm camera (or other manual), you will be turning out technically great digital images in no time. With any luck, you'll get some keepers in there, too.
(Before anyone gets upset about my 'insult' to your photography skills - it's an old rule-of-thumb that you usually get one or two 'great' photos out of a roll of film. The ratio holds true in the digital world, too. You may take dozens of good shots, but only get one or two you'd frame and hang on the wall.)
The bottom line (especially in the digital world) is to learn something about composition and take lots of pictures. Memory is getting cheaper all the time - a 1 gigabyte memory card can be had for maybe $50 and will hold a 'ton' of pictures. Money well spent.
Larry Resident Microferroequinologist (at least at my house) Everyone goes home; Safety begins with you My Opinion. Standard Disclaimers Apply. No Expiration Date Come ride the rails with me! There's one thing about humility - the moment you think you've got it, you've lost it...
Hello,
I like the details of railroading also. Sometimes seeing trains in the usual three-quarter shot gets a little old. Its nice to see a good detailed shot of a truck assembly, a coupler or something along those lines, especially in black and white.
My favorite lighting is in the autumn season when you get that late afternoon soft light with the shadows.
Cheers,
Gregory
I agree with selector. Being from the "old school" of photography, I learned my ABC's on film. I was forced to become competent (not masterful!) using black and white film, before I started with color film. Everything else being equal, a bright sunny day, especially when the sun was at an angle to your subject matter, was always going to give you fits with too much contrast to capture the whole range of detail available. Sacrifice in detail was usually the result. How one selected what to sacrifice made the picture (unless darkroom magic was used).
Today, with digital photography, I'm not sure the same rules apply, or to what extent. But my old school habits still say an overcast day with few or no shadows makes the best DETAILED photograph. Bright sunny days have their place, but for many people, any great shot made on such a day is often by accident.
Hi, thanks for that. A real surprise actually but one for me to think about.
Thanks
My personal favorite is shooting film in the rain (under a canopy of course ) and capturing the "gloomyness" with the rain drops dripping off the roof in the foreground of the picture.
Hello to all from Chippenham, UK,
I would like to ask for some opinions on the subject of railroad photography. Personally I enjoy the results of my hobby most when I've shot material on a great sunny day, you can't beat a blue sky etc.....or can you, I've seen some great material in TRAINS taken in dull weather and am curious if anyone has a opinion regarding which is best?
Secondly, I am pretty keen on taking obscure images of the railroad too, that shot of a freight car truck assembly, a yard shot with just the heat shimmer off the rails, you don't necessarily have to have a train in the shot I suppose, in essence the sort of thing that is all too easily overlooked but shows an aspect of the railroad that might well be a conversation starter.
Anyone have any theories on this subject?
Dave H
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