tdmidget wrote:So sorry to hear that your rails didn't pass the white glove test but you have passed the hollow head test. This is NOT the model train forum.
tdmidget, I don't know what the "td" stands for, but it seems to Me, that You qualify as a MENTAL MIDGET. People often mispost in the "Classic Trains" forum with questions or other posts regarding issues better suited to the "Classic Toy Trains" forum, and they usually get a POLITE comment about which forum is more appropriate for their thread. CudaKen made a simple mistake that did not warrant the Rude reply that You gave him.
LIGHTEN UP,
Doug
May your flanges always stay BETWEEN the rails
Thank you for you kind words tdmidget. I will be more than happy to repost in the none gumpy section.
Getting the heck out of here Ken not want to be called stupid again.
I hate Rust
We have all heard or read that cars that clean the rails is a waste of time and money, or you need to spend a arm and a leg for a good one. I finaly made the plung and bought 2 cheap Trainline box cars that have a cleaning stone on them. Part number CSX#135724 / 931-752 and UP #113803 / 931-751 from K-10 Trains and must say they are all most the best $13.95 each I have sent to date.
They will not let your rails pass the white glove test. But after a week the only engine wheels I had to clean is my old Athean FP-45 now DCC. I only had to clean it after a wood working project for the new bench with saw dust ever where.
I push 1 and pull the other cleaning box car.
For the money a mer $34.00 it has saved me a lot of time cleaing the rails. I thing the brass cleaing car from Tony's is around $120.00. Sure it would it do better but the trainline have helped a lot.
No moe cleaning Ken posting again
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