Painting locomotives??

[ShaunCN]

Helleo everyone and happy holidays. I have a question about painting locomotives. First off the locomotive I am trying to paint is a Atheran SW1200 in Burlington Norhtern paint. I would like it to be in this Canadian National scheme http://stewart.railfan.net/rail/cn/sw-1357a.jpg What tips do any of you have for painting locomotives. Should I use tape to seperate different coloured sections? Do I remove all detail parts first? Also I will be hand painting it because I do not have a airbrush. Also do I need to remove the factory paint even though it has some of the correct colors already applied. thank you for your time.

ShaunCN

[Anonymous]

Shaun:

Not to discourage you but this project is too advanced for you at this time. The likely outcome would be you upset with the result.

If you want to try painting begin with a junk box car from your or the LHS dead pile. Such an attempt will give you an appreciation of trhe difficulty involved.

Randy

[ShaunCN]

TOO Advanced ha ya right. All I wanted was some tips I have already painted many boxcars and caboose along with a U-28b and was quite happy with the results. What even makes you think that painting is too advanced for me. You do not even know who I am.

ShaunCN

[Anonymous]

ShaunCN:

I would agree with Randy that this is pretty advanced as a first project, but as long as you keep a good attitude and remember that the worst that can happen is you will have to start over, you can try this one. Keep in mind it probably won't come out perfect, but you will learn a lot in trying.

First, I would suggest that you always strip the model down to bare plastic before starting to paint. If you don't, then the added layers of paint will just take away detail from the model. A cheap and easy way to strip the shell without hurting the plastic is to use either Castrol Super Clean or a non-synthetic cheap brake fluid. Either can be used over and over again. Just soak the shell for a couple days and use a tooth bru***o finish it.

As for the different colored sections, yes, you will need to mask them off with tape. Take your time when doing this. Speed here will cause leaks and runs under the tape and you won't be happy with the results. Be sure the paint you are putting tape on is fully cured as well or else it will take it off.

I would not suggest doing the whole engine with a brush. This will be difficult to keep any consistency in the coverage and will create brush strokes unless you keep the paint very thin. I would suggest going with spray paint at least. You will find spraying will give you a better results than brushing. Save the brush for the detail work on the handrails, bells, etc.

Most accessories do not need to be removed, except things like front plows so you can get paint behind them. Other than those type of things, leave them on and then detail paint them after the spray process to whatever color they should be.

The best advice I can give is don't be in a hurry and don't be too hard on yourself. It is a learning process.

Remember, you can always re-strip it and start again.

Warren

[Anonymous]

ShaunCN:

You didn't mention you had any experience. I think Randy was just trying to help ;)

Warren

[dave9999]

I’m sure Randy was simply going by your questions. It even appeared to me
that you were not experienced with painting locos.
The great thing about forums is that when you post, expect some responses that you won't like. You asked for tips and he gave you one! Dont ruin a perfectly good locomotive. Dave

[ShaunCN]

Thanks guys for your help. Guesse that evryone thinks I shouldn't paint it so I will just leave it in the original paint. Maybe I coulg get a different shell and paint that one instead. And see how it turns out. Better than destroying a good model.

ShaunCN

[nfmisso]

QUOTE: [
A cheap and easy way to strip the shell without hurting the plastic is to use either Castrol Super Clean or a non-synthetic cheap brake fluid.

Hi Shaun;

Do NOT use brake fluid, it is NOT safe, and newer plastic will be damaged by it. It is an old technique that is no longer considered safe for you or the environment, and it is not inexpensive.

If it is a newer (less than 10 years old) shell, the paint will come off with 91% Iso-Propoyl Alcohol, available in any pharmacy, including Wal-Mart.

The reason to use an air brush is to get very thin uniform layers of paint, which just is not possible with a regular brush.

For tape, go to an auto parts store for the masking tape used for painting cars. Pull off 6" or so from the roll, and de-tack it (put it down on the glass, and pull it off to remove some of the adhesive), and put it down on a piece of glass (in a different location) (you shold have previously cleaned the glass with alcohol , and keep your finger prints off of it) Using your x-acto (new blade) or similar, and a clean metal straight edge cut it into thin strips. use one piece along the edge of where you want to paint, then tape paper or similar on top of the tape. This means that the only adhesive in contact with your model is the first piece you put down.

You can a very basic air brush from Harbor Freight for under $10-, those who have used it are very impressed in its capabilities for the price. For around $10- you can get an air tank that you can fill it at a gas station of with your bicycle air pump (will take awhile, but it is free and available), you'll also need a regulator, a dryer/oil trap. So for less than $50 you can be in business. If there is a local welding supply, look into cylinders of dry nitrogen (N2) or carbon dioxide (CO2), then you will not need the trap. If you decide to go with N2 or CO2, you should not use it in a basement, as they displace the oxygen. You want to use them somewhere where the cold gas can flow down away from your face. And finally, you should ALWAYS where safety glasses, and a mask when painting.

One last tip, use ModelFlex paints, Jim Six and other well known modelers do.

[Anonymous]

Hello Shaun,

I have probably learnt more from doing it all wrong and stripping the paint and doing it all over again than I have from reading hints and tips. Now that I have a much better grasp of how to get a half decent finish on an engine those tips are making more sense.

[Anonymous]

Shaun:

You are correct, I know only about you what you posted in the question. My advice was based on it.

Warren gave you some sound advice. I would add one or two things.

First, I would remove all the detail which you are certain you can reinstall with little trouble or risk of breakage, the aim is restricting your brush work as little as possible. This is personal preference, others think differently.

Second, if restricted to brushwork only, I would thin the paint as much as practical and make several coats rather than one or two. The aim here is to have the color 'sit down' so the brush strokes are minimized. Diesels have considerable amounts of low relief detail you don't want to obsecure. If you have the option, put down the darker colors first followed by the lighter ones. Paint as much as possible on the horizontal using as little liquid as possible to avoid runs. If you don't have a holder for the work its simple to make one so that you can position and work hands free as much as possible.

Third, if you are able to use spray cans, (much to be prefered if possible,) keep the cone of spray back from the target to allow some drying before the color is deposited. Use light quick applications beginning and ending off the surface you are spraying. Plan on two or three light applications rather than one heavy one. Its a good idea to test coverage and technique on a piece of similar material before moving on to the model.

Fourth, overspray the darker (predominant) color and mask-off for the lighter color or colors. I'd double or even tripple what the manufacturer says is the drying time to mask off the next section. The aim here is to avoid pulling off the base coat along with the masking. Use liquid masking if available to you and practical for the usage.

Fifth, work if possible in the same light the engine will be run in. This helps with color compensation. Pretest the colors together if possible on similar material as the model. The eye makes color compensations and shifts when colors are abutted.

Sixth, when you touchup, use the smallest detail brush you can find and use as little color as possible working from the abuttment lines to the interior of the touchup. Use a straightedge as a steady rest but do not touch it to the work surface, paint will wickup and spoil the work.

Finish with a spray of dullcote, two coats on horizontal surfaces.

Be patient, after you have been sufficiently patient, BE PATIENT AGAIN.

Good luck

Randy

PS. the link you posted returned a 404 error, you might want to fix that ?

[Wdlgln005]

My favorite railroad is the undec No Name RR It goes from here to there, mostly in circles. Someday it will pe painted in the scheme I want. In the meantime, the RR crews are too busy doing other things. Or waiting for Atlas-Lifelike-Kato to do the painting for me. but sometimes you just must have a RS-1 to switch the passenger car yard.
It would be so much easier if the model mfr's would produce undec shells for all models, with plenty of cheap seconds for practice.

[Anonymous]

nfmisso:

I use brake fluid all the time. The only shells it hurts that I have ever seen were Kato. Castrol Super Clean works on all plastic. I use it often too and it never hurts anything. They are cheap because I haven't changed the fluid for three years now and it still works; I think that isn't bad for 10 bucks of fluid. Just keep it in an easy to store adequately sized sealable container for easy reuse. I've stripped over 50 models in that time and have not damaged any of them. Brake fluid should be disposed of properly of course. Don't sit and sniff the fumes either of course. You have to paint in a well ventilated area, you should strip in one as well.

I would agree alcohol is fine on the new stuff, but doesn't work easily on the old stuff. What do you use for the older models? You only mention the new.

Warren

[Anonymous]

Can you find an undecorated SW1200 shell at your local hobby shop? If so, try your skills on that. I've done about 10 undecorated shells into various schemes, and if I screw up, it's just the cost of the paint and shell I have to deal with.

An airbrush or a can of aerosol paint works best- don't hand paint unless you're doing details-like handrails and such. Take your time, and you should be good to go. Don't add details until you're done with the paint. I've done a few contest-quality models that way, and have finished 2nd or 3rd a few times. Details are a big thing with contest judges.[8D]

[eastcoast]

Hi.
I have done this before. I took a CN paint scheme off of a GP-35 and put my
own colors on it. What I had to do is strip the original color down to the shell.
I used a part solution of alcohol and thinner AND LOTS OF OPEN AIR. I know it
sounds dangerous to mix these, keep them in separate containers until putting
them on the unit. BE GENTLE. When the color is off, wash with warm soap and
water to remove solution and let dry.
Then, put the lighter new color on first, on the entire shell. Let dry thoroughly.
Tape off or mask the lines for the dark color, apply dark color and let dry
thoroughly. You may need to touch up small areas with a fine brush or just
detail and weather those areas where you have a mistake. Apply decals,
if needed, let dry 48 hrs. SPRAY ENTIRE PROJECT WITH DULL COTE or
the like finish. Weather to suit. Hey good luck whatever you decide to do.
ken_ecr

[Anonymous]

Most of my locos that I've painted have been undecorated. I use something like CSX gray as a primer, then start paint ing my final colors,using tape as needed to paint separate colors. I model in N-scale, so painting locos by hand takes a lot of time and patience, but the final result can be very rewarding! Good luck!

[dharmon]

Shaun,

Alot of good advice from the folks posted here. The only thing I would add is if you have a couple of old boxcars or shells, try the different techniques on them first. I have been painting stuff for years but still have my test hulks whenever I try a new technique or paint, or simply haven't airbrushed anything in awhile just to get a little practice in before I try it on the project. Good luck.

[Anonymous]

Agreed...all very good advice. I will add that you can get a Badger Basic Airbrush set at your LHS with a can of propel for under $25. And to tell you the truith...i have been painting for about 8 years...and i get lots o compliments on my work...and they all ask what kinda airbrush system i use...and i say......................... "The Badger El-Cheapo model with the Propel". Hey i look at it this way...if the thing gets gummed up...which it usually does after about 6 months of use...rather then screw around with trying to clean it...i toss it and go buy another.

Another good hint. Paint on a box. That way after practicing on some crap cars and old shells...you can set your model on top of the box and spray the crap outta the side of the box till you get the mist you want set just right.

Also...wear gloves. No matter what devise you use to hold the model while painting it...sometimes to get into the nooks and crannies you will find yourself turning the model and your arm can get into some weird positions...well after ending up with engine black and CN orange hands a few times...you get the bright idea to put gloves on LOL