Top of benchwork

[Hawks05]

alrgiht as some of you may know i still haven't built the benchwork for my layout. i plan to do that next week hopefully when i can finally go to the lumber yard with my dad. i just got the newest MRR magazine and it has the layout for under $500 and the guy used foam for the top of the benchwork. is this a god idea or should i stick with plywood? if you have read that article i'm doing exactly what he did for the benchwork, making saw horses. hopefully this won't cost a lot. as i'll probably have to pay for it all.

in all i hope to pay about $50 for everything for the bench. once i figure out a layout i'm planning on sticking like little nails or pins into the foam to hold the track down. is this a good idea?

[nfmisso]

Foam is excellent. Pins will not work. I like Aleene's Tacky Glue (Wal-mart Crafts section) to hold the track to the roadbed (Woodland Scenics is my chooice) and the roadbed to the foam. Hot Melt also works, Carpet tape is another choice - but you don't get an opportunity to tweek the location. The above are removeable. Some use Liquid Nails for projects, it is pernament.

I use Woodland Scenics Track Pins and cans of food/drink to hold the track over night for the adhesive to set. Next day, pull the pins and remove the wieghts (cans).

[Anonymous]

I tried the foam. The problem is that signals or slow motion switch machines are nearly impossible to install under the benchwork.. I went back to plywood. Actually, I'm using 1/4 plywood splines.

[Anonymous]

I used 2" foam on a grid benchwork for the HO layout I'm in the process of building. I glued 1/16" cork gasket material cut to size to the foam with Elmer's carpender glue and pushed track nails coated with glue through the cork into the foam. After the track was in place I cut the roadbed contour with a home made hotwire tool.
About 12 posts down in this link you can see the tool and the results of the process.

http://www.the-gauge.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7241

This is the first Layout of many that I didn't use a plywood subroadbed and I am impressed with how easy it is to use.
The next link has a photo of the layout (not finished yet) as well as some other projects.

http://www.the-gauge.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6370

As for mounting switch machines under the table, I just glued a small peice of 1/4" panneling (2"x3")to the bottom side of the foam where needed.

[Anonymous]

Ray,

Did you have any problems with the length of the wire from the switch machine to the throw on the turn-out?

[Anonymous]

I have sucessfully used a foam base on my old layout, Granted it had a plywood sub base, but the top was foam, The only thing I have to say about it was that working with everything you had to use glue to secure it down rathern than nail it down. I had good results with it, but I found it was not to my preferences and thus have returned to traditional plywood and cork with my current layout. Although I still use the foam in base scenery, as I like the unlimited workability and ease of fixing mistakes it offers.

James.

[Anonymous]

I scratch built high target switchstands similar to the ones discribed on this web site.

http://www.bcsj.org/rr/switchstands/index.shtml

Along with the spring on the bottom, I installed an Atlas switch machine so that the button that is meant to throw the switch manually moves the lever. That way it can be opperated manually from above.
I used coat hanger wire (don't tell my wife) in place of the .031" piano wire on the ones that had to go through 4 layers of foam. They work great and it's easy to tell which way the turnout is set at a quick glance.
I have seen others use a J shaped wire that is between the rails to opperate the points from below. It would probably be easier. but I liked the idea of both manual and electric operation.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Ray Marinaccio

I used 2" foam on a grid benchwork for the HO layout I'm in the process of building. I glued 1/16" cork gasket material cut to size to the foam with Elmer's carpender glue and pushed track nails coated with glue through the cork into the foam. After the track was in place I cut the roadbed contour with a home made hotwire tool.
About 12 posts down in this link you can see the tool and the results of the process.

http://www.the-gauge.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7241

This is the first Layout of many that I didn't use a plywood subroadbed and I am impressed with how easy it is to use.
The next link has a photo of the layout (not finished yet) as well as some other projects.

http://www.the-gauge.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6370

As for mounting switch machines under the table, I just glued a small peice of 1/4" panneling (2"x3")to the bottom side of the foam where needed.

Ray--nice photos! You mentioned your were using two-inch thick foam board for subroadbed. Is it holding up well under the weight of scenery, tracks and moving trains? I was very impressed.

[Hawks05]

thats what i would like to know to. in reference to Superchiefs post. my dad said if it would be cheaper that we could maybe do it. with turnouts do you guys manually throw them or have switches for that. i'm liking about doing that manually so i don't have to worry about wires and all of that. i like the idea of using foam for the base of the benchwork. i don't know if i want to have a roadbed though. i don't want to install stuff that i know i'll end up taking apart in a few years.

here's my thinking so bare with me.

i make 2 saw horses and mount a 4x8 foot section of foam on top of it using glue. i then paint the foam a brown or green color. i then put track onto of that using glue or nails.

would this work. i'm thinking about doing a winter scene maybe or something like that. not sure as of what i'm going to have.

[FThunder11]

On my bench work i just put legs along the sides and then a few in the middle

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Hawks05

thats what i would like to know to. in reference to Superchiefs post. my dad said if it would be cheaper that we could maybe do it. with turnouts do you guys manually throw them or have switches for that. i'm liking about doing that manually so i don't have to worry about wires and all of that. i like the idea of using foam for the base of the benchwork. i don't know if i want to have a roadbed though. i don't want to install stuff that i know i'll end up taking apart in a few years.

If you have a center brace for additional support of the foam base I don't see why it couldn't work. Without the brace I'd be concerned about the weight of scenery, tracks, etc. over time causing the middle of the foam base to bow slightly. As for turnouts I use switch machines under the edge of my table top which supports the poly-styrene sheets above. I don't have lots of switches and so this works well for me.

[Hawks05]

i like the idea of foam because of how cheap it is compared to plywood. do you think 1" would be to thing? i don't know what i'm going to do or how to do it yet. i want to use foam as it will probably be easier to put scenery into it down the road. i mean i'll be able to just stick trees right into the foam.

[Anonymous]

Foam isn't cheaper than plywood (in most cases) unless you're using the white beadboard foam, with is NOT good. You need the kind that comes in pink, blue, or grenn. It's a different kind of material, and it will hold up your layout without extra support. Mine is two 1" pieces laminated together (because I couldn't find 2"). It is just fine being held up with shelf brackets and without any futher support.

[Anonymous]

The 2" foam is strong with proper support. My benckwork is 1' square grids, a bit overkill, you could get away with 16" spacing. As for strength I would lay a 2' square of 1/4" panneling on top and Kneel on it to lay the track.
I'm not sure if 1" foam would be as sturdy. I have heard of people using 1" foam with 1/4" plywood between it and the benchwork.

1" foam glued to an old hollow core door, supported by saw horses would be a quick and inexpensive base. (just a thought)

[CBQ_Guy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by brunob1

I tried the foam. The problem is that signals or slow motion switch machines are nearly impossible to install under the benchwork.. I went back to plywood. Actually, I'm using 1/4 plywood splines.

One tip here I've read on this, is to mount the item to a piece of thin plywood, and then attach (hot glue?) that completed assembly to the bottom of the foam in one piece. Hope that's helpful.

[Hawks05]

thanks for the responses.

i'm at a loss when it comes to deciding this. i mean i want to keep it light in case i have to move it or something. i know the saw horses are a sure thing as when i move out my dad can use them. but the top of that i don't know yet. i want to use foam but seems playwood would be better.

i'll come up with something hopefully.

[Anonymous]

What I do is use plywood for the 'prevailing grade' work...that is what represents your track level. I then use foam to add some topography. For below grade scenery I cut through the plywood and create 'ribs' to allow the creation of below grade detail with plaster cloth..the bottom of a lake or stream for example. Alternately you can carve foam for depressions and glue it to the bottom side of the plywood. Imagine it as gluing a bowl to the bottom side of your layout.

No matter which route you take you will develope a personal style and approach using what seems to work for you. Don't strive for perfection, this hobby is a continual learning experience for us all.

Good luck

Randy