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Brick Mortar Lines in Structures

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Brick Mortar Lines in Structures
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, December 9, 2003 2:43 PM
Anyone have any good ideas on how to paint the mortar between bricks on HO structures? I have a couple Walthers kits and I have been experimenting on them with various acrylic paints and alcohol mixtures. It works OK, but while it fills the mortar lines well, some of the thin wash stays on the face of the bricks, especially where the bru***ouches it.

I have seen some photos of beautiful brick buildings with painted mortar, and I was wondering how they do it.

Mike

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, December 9, 2003 2:57 PM
There are a couple of ways you can do this. I have tried both, and think that #1 is easier.

1) After you apply your light coloured wash, wipe with a damp cloth to remove the residue on the face of the brick.

2) Paint the entire building the mortar colour, and then dry bru***he brick colour on to the face of the brick.

I would recommend that you paint the building before you put it together, and then do a final touch up and a little weathering so it all matches once you have assembled everything.

Andrew
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, December 9, 2003 3:05 PM
There's a pre-mix four oz water base product called"ROBERT'S BRICK MORTAR" sold by
Robert's Product Co.
PO Box 27057
Milwaukee Mi 53227

Answering service only, 414-422-1371

Approx cost$8.00 for four oz & approx $4.00 to ship

Simple to use , also used on outside chimmeys

I can check their ad in MODELRAILROADER NEWS tonight for the net cost and save you the expense of a tel call.
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, December 9, 2003 3:13 PM
Thanks guys. I never thought of wiping the face of the brick with a damp cloth. I tried a dry cloth, but it pulled some of my mortar out too.

Mike
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, December 9, 2003 3:27 PM
The softer and fuzzier the cloth, the more likely it is to pull the "mortar" out. Try to find a really worn out bit of rag, and stretch it really tight across your fingers, so there is less of a chance for the fabric to find its way into the lines.

Also, by using a wet cloth, you can get away with letting the wash sit just a bit longer, so it is a little drier in the mortar lines.

Andrew
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, December 9, 2003 3:53 PM
Greetings,

I have used Rub&Buff from an art supply store. I used Antique White. Black is good for engine soot.

They have a variety of colors

Works well with a paper towel.

Mark in Texas
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, December 9, 2003 7:35 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by masonjar

The softer and fuzzier the cloth, the more likely it is to pull the "mortar" out. Try to find a really worn out bit of rag, and stretch it really tight across your fingers,



An old T-Shirt should do it.
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, December 9, 2003 8:39 PM
Total for four oz including S & H, $11.00. overs up to 5 square feet.
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Posted by Jetrock on Tuesday, December 9, 2003 9:39 PM
One technique I tried with good results was a mortar wash. Roughy:

1 part Polly S Aged Concrete
7 parts water
9 parts rubbing alcohol
2-3 drops detergent

Mix this up in a jar and swab it over your building that has been painted a dark brick color. The mortar wash will seep into the cracks (the rubbing alchol and detergent help it soak into cracks instead of staying on top.) Let it dry and presto, you've got some pretty nice mortar lines. A little bit stays on the bricks but if you look at a brick building typically that happens anyhow.

I also found that mortar wash works more uniformly if applied to one side of a building at a time, or before the building is assembled with all walls laying flat. It still works on constructed buildings but needs to be dabbed on a bit at a time (capillary action sends it all over the place) and it isn't quite as even but still looks good for an older or weather-worn building.

If the end result is too light for your taste, try a very diluted (like 60:1) solution of water and India ink for a final black wa***o bring out those details and grime things up a bit.

I made up a good-sized batch of this stuff and had a lot left over so i stored it in a film can for my next brick building. I've tried the paint & wipe method before but it was rather delicate to wipe off just the right amount of paint--mortar wash is much simpler & faster, in my opinon.
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Posted by dknelson on Wednesday, December 10, 2003 8:13 AM
years back people used liquid shoe polish (white obviously), wipe it on the brick, wipe it off with a fairly unfuzzy cloth. It is cheap and seems to work. Of course back in those days people often had white liquid shoe polish sitting around the house :)
Dave Nelson
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Posted by Sperandeo on Wednesday, December 10, 2003 9:16 AM
Hello Mike,

See "Hitting the bricks with stucco," by Kathleen Renninger, in the November 2001
MODEL RAILROADER, page 104. Along with her stucco technique she shows how to make some very effective mortar lines where the bricks are exposed, and that method could be used for an entire building.

Happy holidays,

Andy

Andy Sperandeo MODEL RAILROADER Magazine

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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, December 10, 2003 3:23 PM
I smear Spackling Paste over the brick with my finger, wipe off the surfaceit with a damp cloth and then brush on a thin wash made with water and india ink to tone down the brick and mortar lines.

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