athearn pa-1

[0-6-0]

Hello ok I took my dads power pack and hooked it up to my layout. 1 cab control it a mrc 3 it has volt & amp meter on it . Ran each train one at a time and the amps went up 2 lines from 0 not even close to 1 amp on all trains the volts went to 12 on newer trains and maybe 13 1/2 on the old ones. I run no more then 2 trains on one line. Most of the time its just one. I going to get a new power pack try and get the mrc 9500. I am using my old one to power my turntable lights and switches. Thanks for the help frank

[Don Gibson]

...I did my own test I took a Verney f7a put it on the rail it didnt move till the throttle hit 60. I took mdc 060 just as old it moved at 25. Took newer spectrum 2-6-6-2 the light came on at 25 it moved at 32 .Took a bachmann jupiter light came on at 20 and moved at 25 .I took a ge dash 8-40cw it moved at 40. I ran the pa-1 again it was kinda warm the time it stop but the 3rd time it was warmer,-  Frank

KNOB readings are  are measurements in degrees (90o, 120o, etc.) and mechanical in nature. They are a 'pretend' speedometer, for playing trains. They have nothing to do with power needed or consumed.

Voltmeters and Ammeters do that!.

Since you are running engines that are 50 years apart (Varney / Athearn PA BB, Bachmann / 8-40CW) their performance and power requirements are quite different. I guess you'll have to decide how bad you want to play.

SOLUTION  1. Get an old used power pack for running the old engines with (with 2 Athearn BB engine capacity such as MRC's T-25)

SOLUTION 2, get an MRC 9500 while they still are avalable). They have been discontinued and are being closed out @$80 (from $130) WHILE THE LAST.

The 9500 has enough power to handle OLD and new engines (30VA), plus has METERS showing what each engine's needs. Permanent stand-alone Meters will run you $25 ea, by themselves.

SOLUTION 3. Remotor or replace the 1950 made units.

It could be worse: You could have inherited a 50 year old car whose high compression engine requires Premium ga$ @ 10 MPG.

[Don Gibson]

Hello Well it runs. My dad got a new motor from are lhs and I  didn't know he was getting it. sorry modelmaker51 or I would got it from you . So I got it to gather and it runs slow so i was checking it over and my 2-6-6-2 stop on the inside line. So pulled off the power pack and put on 2 power packs that come with sets. One on each line and they run great no stopping or slowing. So its the power supply can it be cleaned or should I look for new power? Thanks frank

OLD BB Athearn engines required 5.5 volts to start, and up to 1 amp to keep running. You need a UL-VA rating of 12VA just for this ONE engine.

I put on 2 power packs that come with sets. One on each line

 

???  Whatcha going to do when you burn out your Power packs from overheating? I'd recommend an MRC of 12 VA (watts) minimum.

http://www.modelrectifier.com/search/product-view.asp?ID=1291

[SteamFreak]

As far as I know, all MRC power packs are protected by tamper-proof screws, which are not easy to defeat. Even if you can get the power pack open, unless the problem is a dirty potentiometer, cold solder joint, or bad circuit breaker, there isn't too much you can do for it without troubleshooting the circuitry.

Does MRC provide much of a warranty? Anyone have experience with their customer service? Giving them a call couldn't hurt.

[Don Gibson]

ATHEARN BB motors and electrical system are suspect even when new.

DO you want to bring it up to new, or better than new?

http://ppw-aline.com/custom_built_chassis.htm

Better motor, electrical pickup, weight, speed, and pilling power.

Build it yourself, (or RTR $105).

[0-6-0]

Hello Well it runs. My dad got a new motor from are lhs and I  didn't know he was getting it. sorry modelmaker51 or I would got it from you . So I got it to gather and it runs slow so i was checking it over and my 2-6-6-2 stop on the inside line. So pulled off the power pack and put on 2 power packs that come with sets. One on each line and they run great no stopping or slowing. So its the power supply can it be cleaned or should I look for new power? Thanks frank

[0-6-0]

Hello OK I try ed the meter but not sure if I did it right ? So I did my own test I took a Verney f7a put it on the rail it didnt move till the throttle hit 60. I took mdc 060 just as old it moved at 25. Took newer spectrum 2-6-6-2 the light came on at 25 it moved at 32 .Took a bachmann jupiter light came on at 20 and moved at 25 .I took a ge dash 8-40cw it moved at 40. I ran the pa-1 again it was kinda warm the time it stop but the 3rd time it was warmer . So I think its a little bit of both? I will keep at it and let you know . I do have b unit for some parts. Thanks for all the help. Frank

[dinwitty]

heating up motor will slow it down, run it without the shell and check for heat  carefully.

Too much current will heat up electrical components in the powerpak and "slow" them down.

The Athearn units used the spring pickups and I found I did hardwire shunts to get around iffy spring connections.

Newer lokies are using can motors thatuse less current and powerpaks reflect this having less current requirements. Better to have a serious pak able to do 5 amps at least, for those serious multi-unit lashups.

 

[Texas Zepher]

Well my power pack is a tech 4.  ... should I look for a biger supply for this old fleet?

No, not if it is functioning properly.  Do any of the other high current draw locomotive exhibit the same - slowing down syndrom?

[ac4400fan]

Hello I have a athearn pa-1 from 1970-71 more of dads stuff .It ran fine for the last year but now it will slow to a stop.I took it apart and cleand it and put back on and same thing it would do 4-5 laps and get slower each lap and then stop nothing is binding or rubbing. Is it time for a new motor ? And can I get one from athern? Or is ther one better its ho and I run dc thanks Frank

Hi I have a old Athearn.Pa-1 im not using it just sits ,it has metal trucks ,Does yours? if so, and you cant find the problem let me know via-email.ill send you this one. you can use it for parts ,it runs good ,exept i dont like the metal truck sets ,

reguards

Carl.

[NeO6874]

No,

 

The tech 4 (unless damaged) should be fine for those.  It outputs something like 17VA (Volt-amps are "apparent power", and if I'm reading the definition right, it's the measure of the volts * the measure of the amps... so the pack peaks at 17V @ 1A when you have it at 100% throttle, otherwise it's some other product of V and A that equals 17).

MRC throttles (well, at least the DC ones) are some of the best in the industry.  I'd take a look at teh track and the motor itself before tossing the Tech 4.  You MIGHT want to try hooking up the OTHER throttle to the track leads though (assuming you're only using one of them), it might be that the throttle you're using isn't working to spec.

[0-6-0]

Hello Well my power pack is a tech 4 .It has to controls i got it at a show a year or so.It came in a box and looked new but you never no. My dad my have a multi-meter not sure .I will give it a try and let you now. My track is ns felx and I cleand it a month ago but did it agan to make sure. I do have alot of old locos from 1940-1975 .I have 23 locos 4 are 1995 or newer. should I look for a biger supply for this old fleet? Thanks Frank

[Texas Zepher]

I took it to my dads house and ran it there an it ran fine no stoping or slowing..... So is it my powerpack? And how can i test it?

Could be, but that doesn't mean the powerpack is bad, and it could still be a combination of the two.  There a couple of tests to do with a standard multi-meter.

1. Hook up a volt meter (parallel to track) and measure the voltage at the start of the run.  If the voltage starts dropping (hence the loco slowing) then some sort of internal resistance is building up in the power pack. Power pack would be the issue.

2. Hook up an amp meter (in series with the track).  From the start of the run if the amperage decreases (as loco slows) the power pack is producing less and less power for some reason. Power pack would be the issue, but that just could be that it is too small for the loco.

3.  Hook up an amp meter (in series with the track) just as above.  From the start of the run if the amperage increases it could be the locomotive needing more power as it heats.  If your power supply can't deliver the additional power then it will slow.  In this case it could be your father's supply was able to produce the additional power.   Problem would be the locomotive motor.

Of course there is a love / hate relationship with amerage and voltage.  They are indirectly proportional, so measures as I have stated above should not be taken too exactly. 

[nfmisso]

So is it my powerpack?

Could be - those older Athearns soak up current, your pack should be rated at well over 1A (preferrably over 2A) for reliable operation of an older Athearn.  Consider a replacement motor from Athearn, unless you want to go all out for a Mashima or similar motor.

[Railphotog]

What are you using for track?  Snaptrack, individual 9" pieces?  If so, the joints between them coould be coming loosened as the engine drives over them, reducing electrical contact.. Either tighten up the rail joiners and/or add more wires to the track so it is uniform all over.

Also has your track been cleaned recently?  Rub a finger along a track and see if dirt comes off.  If it does, soak a rag in alcohol and clean the track, wiping it dry with another cloth.

Just a few suggestions.

 

[0-6-0]

Hello Well its not the train I took it to my dads house and ran it there an it ran fine no stoping or slowing.It dose run better now that it has had 2 good cleanings in a row. And I did replace the strap with wire and put one on the bootom. So is it my powerpack? And how can i test it? Thanks Frank

[0-6-0]

Hello Ok I pulled off the strap soldered on the wire and it did the same thing.So I took it back apart the brushis are good the springs are good. Tested the motor and it ran fine. I think its the bottom contact? I will keep workin with it and try to get it right. I will let you know if the shorts at the bottom or not.Thanks for the tips.Modelmaker51 thanks for the motor offer.Frank

[jeffrey-wimberly]

I have two of these P units, an A-B set, the B unit acted up just like your PA is doing. The problem turned out to be the motor. As it ran, it would heat up, it's normal for them to heat up some. This one kept getting hotter and hotter while at the same time it slowed down more and more. It never completely stopped but it did get hot enough to be too hot to handle. I pulled the motor and replaced it with one from an Athearn GP35 and it ran fine. It still runs fine today. Do be aware that the flywheels can be a PITA to get off the shafts. One other thing. Do yourself a big favor and toss the top strap. Replace it with a piece of thin wire, 22 gauge or thinner, running from the front truck to the motor then to the rear truck. The strap has a nasty habit of breaking contact on that far back stretch of track that you can't get too.

[modelmaker51]

I have a couple of dozen newer Athearn motors, (left over from remotoring projects), send me an email and we can work something out, cheap, (you pay the postage, etc). Jay.

[Virginian]

It could be a lot of things, but that sounds like a motor field going open or shorted as it warms up.  I am no expert, but the newer Athearn motors may fit the older frames.

[emdgp92]

It could be the motor...but then again, it could be something else. Sometimes, vibration can cause the metal top strap to shift out of place...and short out. Many times, these are bent out of place. Rather than deal with it, I usually replace the top motor strap with pieces of wire (A-line, I think makes a kit to do this if you don't feel like soldering things. Go here: http://ppw-aline.com/re-power.htm for info--it's about 3/4 down on that page. There are also motors available from them. Athearn is very good at supplying parts--many hobby shops stock them, and might be able to test out your PA-1, and see what you need.

[loathar]

Did you check to see if the motor brushes are worn out? (or a brush spring?) I had one act like that.

[mlehman]

For your old Athearn, follow the electrical path closely from rail/wheel contact to motor and back to rail/wheel. A shot of contact cleaner can work wonders on an old engine's electical paths.

If you're looking for something better, there's the P2K PA. Beware that the first run had flaky motors. Later runs are OK in that department. The detail level is excellent and they are usually available for quite reasonable prices. You may be able to get the old Athearn body to fit the P2K drive, if you're just looking for a better powertrain and can't find a suitably decorated P2K shell to suit your tastes.

[0-6-0]

Hello I have a athearn pa-1 from 1970-71 more of dads stuff .It ran fine for the last year but now it will slow to a stop.I took it apart and cleand it and put back on and same thing it would do 4-5 laps and get slower each lap and then stop nothing is binding or rubbing. Is it time for a new motor ? And can I get one from athern? Or is ther one better its ho and I run dc thanks Frank