Old Model Train vs New Model Train

[Anonymous]

I have been an admirer of toy trains since I was little. I lived right by tracks for over 20 years and my dad had a 4x8 foot styrofoam HO layout. I have a 1 year old now and I want to make my own layout for my family. I went to my parents this weekend to look at theirs (It's in storage now) and was wondering if there are differences in the way things are made now. I just got back into it last week beleive it or not, bought my first mag (Model Railroder) and I am baffled.

Thanks,

Steve

[Anonymous]

So, specifically, what is your question?

[Anonymous]

Welcome Steve, or should it be "welcome back"...

A styrofoam based layout from 20 years ago seems (to me) to be pretty advanced thinking for the time.

Probably the biggest change is DCC - digital command control - with which it is possible to drive the individual engine, not just change the power to the track.

There have been many advances in materials, quality of electrical components, detailing of engines, etc, but one might argue that it is just the natural evolution of the item in question.

DCC is a "paradigm shift" - a completely different way of looking at how something works, or could work.

Don't be too baffled though... as in the past, many things are the same, or are similar. If you knew how to solder then, you know how to now (for example). And of course, if you aska question, you will get three "right" answers - you'll just have to decide what works best for you.

Andrew

[Anonymous]

As I said earlier, I am just a beginner so I have all kinds of ideas going around in my head. I would like to incorporate my fathers layout into one of my own somehow (I think he would like that since he has not seen it run for years) and do not know if all would be the same so I could mix and match.

[Anonymous]

Thanks Andrew. I did see the DCC and was curious about that. It seems pretty high tech for me at this point in the game though.

[Anonymous]

Steve,

You can incorporate your father's layout into a new one without too much difficulty. It may require some fiddling or modification to the track in order to "interface" the two. Since he has not seen it run for a while, you might want to try to make it functional as you think about your plans for the new "Empire" [;)].

Track today is more likely to be nickel silver instead of brass (silver colour instead of yellow). But the old brass will work fine if it is kept clean. Many people mix products on their layouts, using track from one manufacturer and turnouts (switches) from another. You do not need to run Altas locos on Atlas track, or anything like that, although I think you probably know this already - sorry if I am oversimplifying things.

I recently starting a layout of my own after a (long) time away from it. I wish I had gone DCC from the start. The smaller your layout, the more you will appreciate DCC I think. Unless you only run one engine at a time, your locos will be very close together on a small layout, which makes switching blocks for cab control a pain in the you-know-what.

Digitrax offers a "starter" set of sorts called the Zephyr. It looks much like an old MRC power pack, with a few buttons, and a knob for speed control, but it is much more advanced. It will even allow you plug in your old transformer to use as a second controller. Can be found for under US$200. Your only other expense if for decoders (anywhere from $20-$30 per engine).

Bad news is that your dad's old engines may be difficult or impossible to retrofit with decoders.

Anyway, all this to say - ask away! For the most part you will get useful info here (and other places on the net), and there really aren't any silly questions. The search function can also provide you with lots of info on questions that have been asked in the past (probably more info than you'd even want to read...)

Andrew

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by masonjar
Bad news is that your dad's old engines may be difficult or impossible to retrofit with decoders.

Having installed decoders in a great deal many older locomotives, I have to say that decoder installation is not impossible. Difficult maybe, but not impossible. If you go dcc and cant figure out how to install it, My paint shop also does decoder installation and I would be glad to give it a look over.

James.

[Anonymous]

Welcome back to the world of model railroading! I'm 13 and just starting plans for my 5x8 or 6x8 layout. I think I will go with DCC also. I'm modeling the Union Pacific in the 1940-1945 era. Lots of steam locos! Should be fun! [:)]

[Anonymous]

Research, research,research. At least thats what Im doing,Besides asking ?s here I have searched the web. Ive been looking at the advertizments In the Model Railroader and going to the web sites of the ads. Even if its a online store I look at what they have avaliable. Most online stores will have pictures of the product. And most online stores dont require amembership to look, You dont have to buy if you dont want to. Its helped me to see whats out there and to understand what people are talking about a little at least.

[CP5170]

Another way to discover what's happening in the model rr world is to take layout tours. As winter, here in the north, approaches, many local clubs offer layout tours. I find them invaluable for viewing different ideas and usually the owners are more than happy to answer questions. You may find someone who has incorporated an older layout into his new minature transportation world.

Good luck...Ken

[bluepuma]

Steve,

The biggest difference is that the trains today are better, couplers may be different. I had my N scale locos stored from 1970 until 2000, bought new stuff, a loco, couple of cars, caboose. Took out my old track, put it together, ran it with my 30 year old Atlas DC powerpack. You will need to clean your track.

The biggest problem can be with the old loco, DC motor hasn't been run in a long time. It needs to run enough to clean up the brushes without stopping the motor. They can get dead spots from oxidation, so once you get the loco going, leave it running until the brushes clean up, a loop with no switches is good. After a few minutes of running it should be fine, so just run it at different speeds until all seems good, they try reverse for a while at different speeds.

Take a look at couplers on what you have, so you can make sure what else you buy has matching ones. If you buy a new loco, more cars, I've had good results in N with Kato, Atlas and Lifelike locos. Keep in mind that the radius of the curves can make longer locos derail or the cars attached.

The most important thing is to get a train running. You might need to clean the track with alcohol, metal polish. Might be worth buying a loop of new track just to run the old locos in. Keep stuff off the carpet, away from fuzz. Some of the track with roadbed locks together and makes a fine run in loop.

Have fun! - Tom

[Anonymous]

Thanks so much for the welcomes and the replys! It seems like it will be easier than I think.