Thank you kind friend.
Bugging you again Older Cuda Ken posting again
I hate Rust
Selector and Tom, I have to reason I rather fix it than send it back.
1 Turn around time after spending what I did I don't want it to be gone for 4 months.
2 All warrantys run out, then it is up to the owner to fix or trash. Might as well get my feet wet now. I am 89% sure with a little information I can fix the sucker and will take less than 4 months.
On the TRIX, I will get one latter. First I want a new Bachmann with the new sound system. I want to hear what to hear it. K-10 Train has a 4-8-2 Heavy Moutain (think that is what it is called) that has a great look. Plus I have had great luck with Backmann Steamers to date, way better than what I have had with BLI.
I will try to get a hold of Bob again at BLI Monday and see what he says. With luck he might just send me a new tender or a quick fix.
Cuda Ken
PS, you have 2 hours and 49 minutes to wish me a happy brithday
selector wrote:In the meantime, I'll betcha Tony's can still get you a veeerrrry niiiiiice Trix Mikado for about what you paid for the Mountain.
You tell 'em, Crandell! I've been tryin' to get Ken to bite at a Trix Mike for a month now but he hasn't been nibblin'. Ken, take it from two VERY satisfied owners of the Trix Mike. It crawls and operates like a dream...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Send it back. You should not have to put up with this, not from a Spectrum, not from a Genesis, and sure as aitch not from a BLI. Before you do, get permission, remember. Also, leave the tape so they know where to begin looking for a problem. Be done with it, Ken.
They'll come good. In the meantime, I'll betcha Tony's can still get you a veeerrrry niiiiiice Trix Mikado for about what you paid for the Mountain.
Frist had a problem fresh out of the box. Hook the draw bar to the tender and sparks flew? Fellow M1A listed a repair from Tony Train world. Seems the sound pot hits the reset jumper and cause it to make the chassis hot, that = sparks.
Before I read this post I fixed it by using a plactic screw in the thender with the head cut off so the draw bar would not ground out. Problem gone! Latter I used the Tonys fix but left the plactic screw to be safe.
Leap forward, engine started make a click sound when ran. Lubed up but to no revel (still clicking). BLI sent me the new center rear, I installed (leap of faith I will add) and ran great for around 4 weeks.
One night I started to run it throught a driffrent turn out, would stop and could feel a snag when ran through by hand, it was the plactic screw being a little long. OK, I used the Tonys Train world fix so I installed the factory tender pin. Started sparking and shorting out? Installed a new plactic screw, sparks flew again?
Open the tender and pulled the sound pot that should have be causing the short, ran agin, sparks? Ran with no tender shell, sparks! Unhook the draw bar and runs fine.
Before you answer remember it sparked New Out Of Box NOT AFTER I STRIPPED DOWN THE ENGINE TO BARE CHASSIS. Plus it ran around 40 hours after I took it a part with no problems.
I have 3 ideas.
1 Drive my 68 Road Runner over it and send it back to BLI.
2 Ground the board with rubber
3 Look at the mounting points of the tender trucks.
I can see white spots on the tender chassis by the mounting point of the pin (remember it is now a plactic screw with the head cut off) where the spark is jumping. I installed electrial tape and that has stopped the shorting but don't want to leave it rigged like that. I want it right. After all it is a BLI, not a Tyco.
I hope to hear back from Bob or is it Mike from BLI teck support but not as of yet.
By the way to me! 51 or ruffly 7691.7 gallon of Beer throught me
Cuda Ken, wronding about BLI again