Custom Caboose

[Dough]

I take a lot of pictures, but I am fairly new to rail modeling. I would like to make some models of rail cars and locos that I frequently see. One of these is the CSX caboose that is used in Athens, GA. I found this pic of it on the internet:

http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=14168

I also found this caboose from Walthers:

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/140-7453

This is my first custom job, and I thought that the model would be a good place to start since it dosen't need that much work. Now, can someone tell me how to go about changing the road number and add the rust. Oh, and now that I look at it, their seems to be an extra window on the model. I don't know how close I'm going to be able to get it, but I would appreaciate it if someone could at least point me in the right direction.

Edit: Ok as I look at it more, I realize that the prototype dosen't have the walkway on the top either. Is this supposed to be the same caboose? Of the three that operate in GA none have that extra window... http://garailfan.rrpicturearchives.net/archiveThumbs.aspx?id=344

Thanks

[Anonymous]

While the Walthers caboose looks close, it really isn't as close as it seems, if you want a fully-accurate model. This is because the numerous body changes will ruin the applied paint scheme, and you'll end up not gaining much ground by using this model as opposed to another bay-window caboose.

I model in N-scale and face similar dilemmas often; in order to acheive the model I desire, I face a host of changes that may prove too difficult to perform. Therefore, I have to determine which are the most critical and noticeable modifications, and just do those. As an example, I recently completed a T-6 switcher based on an S-2 chassis (or, well, I'm ALMOST done, just need new truck sideframes...). The body of this switcher was a solid metal casting, so making any changes to it meant sawing off slabs. The casting was shaped to cradle the motor, and I couldn't discard it altogether, so I ended up just fabricating a new nose from parts carved away from an RS-11 shell. The louvers and doors along the side are not right; I'm compromising by not correcting them- unless I point it out, no one will notice them on my black-painted engine.

The major features I see in the real caboose are the missing roofwalk as you mentioned, and the windows. There are fewer windows on the side, and filling in a window is probably easier than carving in a new one. Also, the windows on the bay have a neat downward angle, which I assume is to make the operating window panes slide down into place by gravity. You might try looking around for a model of a caboose that has this kind of window, especially if you can find a bay window like it; then, you'd be able to slice off the bay of the Walthers model, glue on the alternate bay, after first painting it to match. Otherwise, you might want to just replace the side panel of the bay which contains the slanted windows, fabricating a new panel of your own from styrene. What you'd do is cut out a length of styrene that is half as wide as the bay window panel, then cut it at the angle of the window (print out the photograph as a guide). Slide them apart to the height of the window, and cut out infill pieces to make the side jambs of the window. Work on a smooth and flat surface (I use a discarded sample of ceramic tile, such as what you see in bank lobbies, because I can get it readily at work; I am an architect) and join all the pieces together with the thin solvent-based glue for styrene, not the thick Testor's stuff that squeezes out like toothpaste. Repeat this in reverse for the other half, and then glue the two together to end up with a panel that has a slanted-window-shaped hole. From there, you can use thin strips of styrene to build up the jambs and the sliding window tracks, and even use clear styrene for the glazing.

You'll want to use a putty-type gap filler to smooth out the joints wherever they show; put some into each joint and roughly smooth it with a chisel or knife, then after it has cured you can sand it down smooth and flat.

The tricky part will be attaching to the carbody, since you'll have to cut away the bay panel perfectly parallel to the main body. I suggest cutting the bay window in half vertically (assuming the roof is a separate piece, otherwise cut the entire car in half) so that you can then slide the saw blade in just behind the panel. Use the bay window panel itself as a guide to position the teeth of the blade, so that your cut occurs right at the joint . Once you've attached the new panel, you'll need to fill and sand it as well, and then you'll need to mask off the rest of the car to paint it.

For filling in window, it's pretty much the same process: cut a piece of styrene to fit, glue it in, then fill and sand it smooth. I would scrape the edges of the window (the jambs, sill, and head) to expose bare plastic before gluing, because the glue is a plastic solvent that won't actualyl adhere to the paint. If there is any molded-on jamb detail such as a raised rim around the window, you'll want to remove this with a knife beforehand, to make it easier to sand down smooth. Use another stiff, smooth, and flat object pressed tight against the outside face of the panel to align the infill piece: by pressing it tight as well, you'll assure that it ends up flush with the main carbody.

For the roofwalk, you can probably just remove it and then plug up the holes left behind with the same filling putty.

Hope this helps! Don't be intimidated; rather, let your sincere desire for a model of this unique car push you to develop the skills it takes. Before long, you'll be like me, just looking for new kitbash projects!

[Anonymous]

Bah it's close enough for Government work!.

Ok so it has a few flaws against the Prototype, but if you can live with it, it's fine. if you want it closer to the prototype, just remove the roofwalk and you'll be pretty dern close.

As for changing road numbers, find a decal set on walthers that has similar numbers, painty over the ones there, then place the new numbers you took from the decal set.

For the rust effect, i'd say pick up a book about weathering and read about how to weather properly. it's hard to post all there is to weathering on this forum. there is information about it out there though, so just look for it.

Jay.

[Dough]

Thanks guys, I was really hopping that this would be a good way to get started with limited work. I may give it a shot anyway, so that I can learn some of the techniques.

BTW do you have any recomendations for good books on the subject?

[Anonymous]

Athearn also makes a bay window caboose similar to the one you are interested in. I find pastel chalks to be the easiest way to weather. They are completly controlable and if you don't like what you've done, simply take some soapy water and rinse it off. I use the chalks by rubbing the chalk with either a paint brush or Q-Tip and applying the chalk to the model by rubbing the area I want to weather with the brush or Q-Tip.

[Anonymous]

I thought only the B&O adapted the bay window caboose?

[Anonymous]

Bay Windows Cabooses are as common as dirt. They made up the majority of the CNW caboose fleet in the 70s and 80s

Also UP, SP, ATSF, BN, Conrail, NYC, Frisco, and MILW had sizable Bay Window Caboose fleets.

[Anonymous]

for a good weathering job, get yourself a set of artisits' pastel sticks available at any art supply/craft store, and use an earthtone set. the reds and browns are perfect. rub a q-tip, or an old warped paintbrush with the bristles cut almsot to the metal crimping on the brush, rub it in the pastels, and just follow the weathering on the picture, and, when you are done, spray it with a thin layer of testor's dull-cote. if the spray thins the color, repeat until you get what you want in that finish!! the foam blocks in athearn boxes work really well too. enjoy!