Turntables

[Anonymous]

I like automatic.

[vsmith]

I cant really answer this one. I'm doing 1/2" (G guage) and they dont even MAKE a turntable in large scale. I would be happy with a good, simple manual one though.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by vsmith

I cant really answer this one. I'm doing 1/2" (G guage) and they dont even MAKE a turntable in large scale. I would be happy with a good, simple manual one though.

Time to make one, be suprised what a ballbearing set can do under a wooden circle.

Jay

[dave9999]

By automatic, do you mean motorized? I use the walthers turntable(motorized) and roundhouse.
Both are fine models.

[douginut]

Turntable?

I use a Transfer Table.

Doug, in Utah[8]

[BR60103]

I have 2 Peco turntables (HO) with motor units, and I feel that I might prefer to use finger power with a bit of friction.

[vsmith]

QUOTE: Originally posted by NTDN

QUOTE: Originally posted by vsmith

I cant really answer this one. I'm doing 1/2" (G guage) and they dont even MAKE a turntable in large scale. I would be happy with a good, simple manual one though.

Time to make one, be suprised what a ballbearing set can do under a wooden circle.

Jay

thought about that, but using a Lazy Susan, but I couldnt figure out how to make it stay put at each track connection. So I put the idea on the shelf. Lately been thinking if I could modify an HO Atlas turntable mechanism under that Lazay Susan, Humm.....???

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by vsmith

QUOTE: Originally posted by NTDN

QUOTE: Originally posted by vsmith

I cant really answer this one. I'm doing 1/2" (G guage) and they dont even MAKE a turntable in large scale. I would be happy with a good, simple manual one though.

Time to make one, be suprised what a ballbearing set can do under a wooden circle.

Jay

thought about that, but using a Lazy Susan, but I couldnt figure out how to make it stay put at each track connection. So I put the idea on the shelf. Lately been thinking if I could modify an HO Atlas turntable mechanism under that Lazay Susan, Humm.....???

Hmm...could put little tabes on the edge of the lazy susan, then put ridges on the inside of other edge, that way when the tab goes over the ridge it snaps in place.

Hmm..does that make sense? i can see it in my mind, may not be translating it well.

Jay.

[vsmith]

I was actually thinking of leaving the whole turntable intact and mount the large scale table base on top of in, recesssing the Atlas into the bench work. That way I dont have to redo any of the mechanism , tabs, or the like. Track alignment would be based on the pre-existing Atlas mechanism. The only thing I'm really unsure of is whether the Atlas Mechanism could handle the weight of a large scale engine. Mine are small and the turntable would be no longer than 12"-14 " . Maybe some rollers at the largescale turnable base with the atlas "floating" under, tied to the benchwork. Might work?

[Anonymous]

Well, I don't think they make a turntable big enough to turn an HO big boy. If they do I'll get one.

[CBQ_Guy]

Guyz,

The question was what type would YOU LIKE TO HAVE. NOT, what DO you have, or DON'T have or , what do they MAKE or DON'T make. Stay focused.

[Anonymous]

I voted Automatic but can only afford manual. Stepper motors and syncronized systems are far to expensive.

Someone must have a schematic available out there!

Anyone?

Fergie

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by 4884bigboy

Well, I don't think they make a turntable big enough to turn an HO big boy. If they do I'll get one.

Any 130' turntable will do for it, Walther's has one as well as a couple of other Kit places that make varible sized Turntables.

Jay.

[cp1057]

I have a motorized Walthers turntable, but I find the electrical contact is intermittent no matter what I try. On my new layout the turntable might be done away with and just use an engine house.

Charles
Hillsburgh Ontario

[Anonymous]

There are some turntable drive units on ebay that are made by a company called AROS Electronics that look really nice.

[randybc2003]

Would RATHER have "automatic" - ie motorized. I built a little "gallows" TT w/ Audio Jack center and ARMSTRONG movement. Use a "friction" pad at the end to hold it in place. (see MR's Carabasset & Dead River RR plans). It works! (Hey! the big ones had to be turned by hand!)

[nfmisso]

QUOTE: Originally posted by vsmith

I was actually thinking of leaving the whole turntable intact and mount the large scale table base on top of in, recesssing the Atlas into the bench work. That way I dont have to redo any of the mechanism , tabs, or the like. Track alignment would be based on the pre-existing Atlas mechanism. The only thing I'm really unsure of is whether the Atlas Mechanism could handle the weight of a large scale engine. Mine are small and the turntable would be no longer than 12"-14 " . Maybe some rollers at the largescale turnable base with the atlas "floating" under, tied to the benchwork. Might work?

The mechanism will wear out quickly, It is called a "Geneva mechanism", and in the case of the Atlas turntable it is a plastic pin and a plastic Geneva wheel.

See:
http://em-ntserver.unl.edu/Mechanics-Pages/em373honors-S2001/em373/geneva/geneva.htm
for an explanation.

You could pick one up that would handle your project from WM Berg, see:
http://www.wmberg.com/catalog/viewpart.cfm?part=GM%2D4A

Another choice is a Bowser unit, see:
http://www.bowser-trains.com/oscale/turntables/turntables.htm

[Anonymous]

While I'd rather have an automatic one, my layout has a manual one. It, along with the roundhouse in my yard was built for me by my uncle. I generally don't do much actual making up of trains, etc. so I usually just switch around locomotives in the roundhouse by hand.

[Anonymous]

It doesn't have to be very complex, I would Like a system to where an indexing can occure at a preset interval like on the Atlas turntable.

James.

[dharmon]

QUOTE: Originally posted by nfmisso

QUOTE: Originally posted by vsmith

I was actually thinking of leaving the whole turntable intact and mount the large scale table base on top of in, recesssing the Atlas into the bench work. That way I dont have to redo any of the mechanism , tabs, or the like. Track alignment would be based on the pre-existing Atlas mechanism. The only thing I'm really unsure of is whether the Atlas Mechanism could handle the weight of a large scale engine. Mine are small and the turntable would be no longer than 12"-14 " . Maybe some rollers at the largescale turnable base with the atlas "floating" under, tied to the benchwork. Might work?

The mechanism will wear out quickly, It is called a "Geneva mechanism", and in the case of the Atlas turntable it is a plastic pin and a plastic Geneva wheel.

See:
http://em-ntserver.unl.edu/Mechanics-Pages/em373honors-S2001/em373/geneva/geneva.htm
for an explanation.

You could pick one up that would handle your project from WM Berg, see:
http://www.wmberg.com/catalog/viewpart.cfm?part=GM%2D4A

Another choice is a Bowser unit, see:
http://www.bowser-trains.com/oscale/turntables/turntables.htm

My question is..

Is there a way to use something like this on a walthers transfer table to align the tracks? So when it is operatered, it moves to the first track lines up, then on to the next. As it is it has to be manually done.

[lyctus]

I am in the process of building a Walthers 90 foot turntable and I have made a few mods to the kit which has turned what is possibly a mechanically ordinary unit into a total joy. I found that the central bearing in the centre of the pit was a poor fit in the hole provided. I made a snug hole in a square of thin styrene sheet , glued it in dead centre based on the raised bearing housing block. I then reduced the thickness of the bearing bushing by the thickness of the styrene sheet to bring the roller wheels on the bogies back nto contact with the ring rail. next, I removed the little pips on the mechanism cover where the motor/gearbox unit goes and only held the motor/gearbox by one self tapping screw, with a light spring bearing on the rear of the motor box, which applies gentle pressure onto the gear wheel drive ensuring constant contact throughout the rotation of the bridge.
Result, perfect contact throughout the whole operation.
Now to find an indexing setup which is affordable or buildable. I have a light triggered switch kit which might do the trick, but would appreciate other sugestions.

[Anonymous]

I'm in S scale and I use an HO Heljan 14" TT with their drive motor. The pit is flat but it works very reliably. That's the real desirable thing to have with a TT anyway.

[nfmisso]

Take a look at this, it is robust enough for even a 3ft TT in LS. It is designed to rotate and hold small satellite dishes in position with high wind loading etc. I have one to build my future turntable on.
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=400400&item=DCM-178&type=store

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by mynscaletrains

There are some turntable drive units on ebay that are made by a company called AROS Electronics that look really nice.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by mynscaletrains

There are some turntable drive units on ebay that are made by a company called AROS Electronics that look really nice.

Does anyone know where to get a transfer table and extension offered by Walthers a few years ago? Does anyone make a transfer table for HO?

[selector]

QUOTE: Originally posted by cp1057

I have a motorized Walthers turntable, but I find the electrical contact is intermittent no matter what I try. On my new layout the turntable might be done away with and just use an engine house.

Charles
Hillsburgh Ontario

Here is what you do ( I figured this out the hard way, too): Remove the metal wipers, but first draw a mark across them on each side of where the bridge pivot and brass ring lie. You should have two marks running across them, about 1/2" apart.

Then, file or cut indentations along the edges between those marks on each wiper, and extend the indentations about 1/8" beyond each mark. The edges of your wipers will now look like this: ------______------------ , if you understand.

Next, remove the bridge and screw a washer centred to the bottom of the pivot. This washer should be big enough to extend beyond the profile of the pivot bottom so that the lower wiper does not slip off the bottom of its brass ring.

Reassemble, and see if your pickup isn't improved. By the way, I hope your wiper stand has not slipped out of its slot. I eliminated that possiblity by gluing it wir large gobs of latex caulk that acted as reinforcing buttresses on its sides.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by huber25

I'm in S scale and I use an HO Heljan 14" TT with their drive motor. The pit is flat but it works very reliably. That's the real desirable thing to have with a TT anyway.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by huber25

I'm in S scale and I use an HO Heljan 14" TT with their drive motor. The pit is flat but it works very reliably. That's the real desirable thing to have with a TT anyway.

I am just starting an american flyer layout and want to have turntable. Can you send me more details and perhaps a picture? Any help will be appreciated.

thanks, Mike [e-mail]