I've talked to a few other people that have the Delta....everyone says it is great!
underworld
The real wood will look better than anything else. I do all my scratch building with real walnut.
BUT - trying to cut this stuff that small with inexpensive tools is asking for trouble. The blades are the most critical, but zero clearence and good fences are also critical. A circle saw blade at less than $100 will not give you a clean cut. A new band saw blade is also needed.
Good luck and take care.
bogp40 wrote: Is there a specific reason you want to use this wood? As mentioned, it is difficult to work with. Is it the color alone? There are numerous other choices that are much more manageable and easier on the tools. I have had difficulty ripping hardwoods on the club Micro mark table saw (poplar,birch and maple), even with a new blade. Most hardwood milled in the club shop is not for the layout or structures, it is used for lockers, shelving or display cases. This is all done on a vintage 10" rockwell table saw.
Is there a specific reason you want to use this wood? As mentioned, it is difficult to work with. Is it the color alone? There are numerous other choices that are much more manageable and easier on the tools.
I have had difficulty ripping hardwoods on the club Micro mark table saw (poplar,birch and maple), even with a new blade. Most hardwood milled in the club shop is not for the layout or structures, it is used for lockers, shelving or display cases. This is all done on a vintage 10" rockwell table saw.
The color is part....of course I could stain to match, but the pieces I have, have interesting variations in coloring and interesting grain pattern. It wouldn't be the craziest thing that I've ever done!!!
SpaceMouse Did you eat all of those popsicles??? I figured you probably bought them in packages....but maybe you are the popsicle king???
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Very good tips and good points to consider have been brought up. You may want to consider the following also.
Wear a dust mask, some exotic woods can be hard on your lungs, if you breathe in the airborne saw dust.
Wear eye protection as you can experience saw dust and small pieces of wood flying back at you.
Make and use a push stick to feed your wood through/past the saw blade. If the push stick gets nipped by the blade, you can always cut a new one. Sure does save teh fingers or hands.
You may want to consider making a auxiliary wood fence and mount it on the saw blade side of your fence. In the event the saw blade hits the fence, it will cut up the wood fence before it hits the metal fence.
I cut all my wood for my buildings, I model in G scale. I have used both a 10" table saw and a band saw. Have you considered what you will use to sand the saw marks out of your finished cut pieces?
I too have a complete woodworking shop. I have worked with exotic woods, they can be fun to work with and also a pain in the neck.
I feel as if I must second the zero clearance throat plate. At best you will at least loose lots of strip wood if you don't, and at worst...hopefully you know the possibilities. I use my standard 10" table saw to cut stripwood sometimes when I need to, and I use an 80 tooth blade, zero clearance throat, and I know I will have more sawdust than stripwood. The blade leaves about 1/8" kerf, but I have cut some pretty small stripwood, like HO sized 2x4 size. It will work just fine.
Paul
Dayton and Mad River RR
Thanks everyone!
SpaceMouse The Micro Mark one does sound great!
Just looked at a Delta 9" bandsaw today. One local store has them on clearance for $69. Almost went ahead and bought it but I wanted to do some more research.
Underworld, whatever you decide, remember that these small tools can bite as bad as the bigger ones. Be safe and use a zero clearance throat plate for the thin stuff. You can make one if need be. Also those really thin kerf blades will wobble if forced.
Better safe than sorry.
BB
73
Bruce in the Peg
I would like to second the advice given in the previous post. Buy quality tools and blades. It will pay off huge dividens and will last longer than the cheaper ones and will give you more stisfactory results. We don't use much purple heart these days. I can't remember the last job we used it on. But I do remember thta anyone working with the stuff always complained how hard it was to work with and how hard it was on the tooling.
GUB
ARTHILL wrote:One thing about Purple Heart is that it sometimes looses its color. It is a common wood and scrap is availible. If you cut with a band saw you will loose the least, but will have cut marks. If you cut with a good table saw you will loose 1/8 inch. If you cut Purple Heart with a cheap blade it will burn. I build all my stuff with custom cut walnut, but I have a good wood shop from a former life to work with. Without the good tools it will be difficult and Purple Heart is a difficult wood. It can be done, but not easily.
I use this.
It was around $125 from MicroMark. There is nothing wimpy about this saw. I use it for making stuff out of popsicle sticks.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
Thanks for all of the tips! I am looking at a small 4" table saw. The wood supply place has a good quality fine cut blade with .08 inch kerf. Am also considering using a band saw. I just saw this accesory on the Dremel website
I could use this with my rotary tool if I could also find some sort of jig to hold the tool in place.
Just another idea.
I found a hobby size table saw (4" blade) for $49.99. It does have a very thin blade with it and I can get a thinner one....looks to be less than 1/16 thick. The wood is called Purple Heart and these are the smallest pieces that I can find. The saw will definately be used again on later projects. Just want to know if there are any special tricks I should know.
Thanks!!!
A hobby sized band saw with a rip fence attachment would have a narrower cutting blade and you would not lose as much material to sawdust.
Considering the cost of the tools, though, are you sure you want to try using this piece of wood? Micro-Mark has the band saw, for example, for $139.95 and the rip fence is an additional $21.95. A MicroLux table saw is $344.95, and extra blades are $18.10 each.
I've got some exotic wood in a piece that's 1/4" x 3" x 24" and I want to cut approximately 1/4" wide pieces from it. The best thing I can think of is to use a hobby type table saw (circular) Any advice???