4x8 layout question

[Anonymous]

All right, I'm 13 and I want to model the Union Pacific in 1945 on a 4x8 layout. I have a room that my parents say I can set up trains in, it has 5 sides, kinda like an octagon. I was wondering how large or small of curves to use (it's gotta be able to take a new rivarossi big boy and a challenger). I'd also like to know what code of track to use (ex: 100, 83, etc.), what kind of track to use (thinking about E-Z track, don't wanna go through the trouble of laying down road bed), and what kind of layout set up you guys would suggest. Got any suggestions?[;)]

[Anonymous]

You are going to be stretching things if want to run long wheelbase locomotives on the kind of curves that you can put on a 4 X 8. 22-23" is the maximum and that will bring the track to the very edges of the layout. Even then, they may derail or derail the cars behind them. I would either expand to a 5 X 8 or even a 6 X 8 (with center access) and broaden the curves as much as possible.

You are also well advised to use flex track and include spiral easements into the curves so that the locomotives and cars don't lurch when they suddenly go from the straightaway into the curve.

John

[Hawks05]

ya its going to be real tough to use the Big Boy on a 4x8 layout. i to will have a 4x8 layout and i plan on using only 8 axle locomotives that way i can have more than one curve on the layout and not have to worry about troubles.

[Anonymous]

I have to agree with John here, if you want to run the "big boy", you'll have to either:
A) Increase the size of the layout . i sugesst 5x10 if possible as a min, that would give you 28" curves at the extremes, and that "Big Boy" can manage them nicely if you add the easements in as John says.

B) go with a 2x16 layout (cutting the 4x8 into 2), either strait or L, and go with a point to point operation. if you go L, go with a min curve of 24".

18" curves are fine for yard work, but you want a mainline, you need to move up, 22" is nice, but again, with the longer cars you'll have potential for derailments (not very often, but it'll happen). 24" really is where you can start running the longer cars and you start to see the trains start to look like they're on real track.

I run the longer passenger cars and find that 24" and up is the only way to avoid derailments with them.

So I'd say if you can swing it, go with John's 6'x10' with a 2' cutout in the middle.

Ask for you're track question, if you want touse E-Z Track or True-track, you can, since this will probably be a testing layout for you.

But i'd go with the flex track when you finally decide it's going to be semi-permanant. Laying 36" stretches of Flex allows you the benifits of less wear on the wheels (they're not hitting as many joints, thus limiting misaligns), less noise since the wheels won't be hitting a joint every 9", and it allows you to make curves that benifit your layout without restricting you to pre-fab radius's.


I'd say if you want to be proto-typical, go with code 83, but code 100 is fine to, no matter what people say, that extra .17 mm is not even noticeable, unless you've got a stickler out ther with a micrometer checking everything out.

[FThunder11]

on the track, I would say to use the Bachmann E-Z track. It comes with roadbed so it will be easier to put down. Thats what I use for parst of my layout and it looks good.

[asrothzeid]

If you use E-Z track, you may want to consider using their #5 switches, especially if you're running passenger trains. Speaking of which, you could think smaller and buy a Bachmann doodlebug or the Walther's version of that model.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the replies, guys! So if I go with a 5x6, do you think I'd still have trouble running the big boy? I could go with something smaller.... like a northern or a mikado, but I'd like to run the big boy all the same (in case you haven't guessed, that's my fav.).

[Anonymous]

Hmm..5x6? you'd basically be running a circle, there'd really be no way to do any branches or such.

5x8 would allow more flexability with braches to the inside. I'd say a 5x10 would give you ample room to play around with branches and industries along the route.

[Anonymous]

Thanks NTDN!:) I don't know if the layout is official yet, but I really want to have one. I'd say the biggest I could have right now is 5x8, I'll have to check the length and width of my "train room". And, I don't have a big boy or challenger yet, it's just I plan to get them someday. I just want to make sure the layout could handle them in advance, you know, like planning ahead. So about the 5x8, could it handle a big boy?, with the proper curves of course.

[Anonymous]

Hmm..5x8 would give you a max outter radious of about 28" should be pretty good for it. It also depends on which bigboy you get, each companies engines seem to be a little different in performaces.

I don't own a Bigboy, so i can't tell you for sure what it'll handle, but as a 4-8-8-4, it definatly needs larger curves,.

Hmm...you could go with a 4.5x8, that'd be 26" curves, or 4.25x8, giving 25" curves (or 24" using any quick track product).

Yea, they should be able to take the 24's, but i'd play safe and go with a 26.

what you should do is hit the LHS and see if they've got a layout set up and fi they're willing to let you try a big boy on it and see how it handles the various curves. also if they let you try one, i'd try a few different nodels, find the right fit :)

EDIT: ignore that about different models, seems the only one i see is a Rivarossi in various colors of Union Pacific.

Jay.

[Anonymous]

Ok, found this out as an interesting peice of info on the BigBoy:

"NOTE: The sharpest curve the Big Boys could negotiate was a 20 degree curve. In HO scale, this would be a 40 inch radius curve. " http://www.steamlocomotive.com/bigboy/

But i believe the HO models are designed to accomidate lower radius's by having the two sets of 8's actually be on turning trunks.

Jay

[preceng]

I use EZ-Track on a 4x8, but have not tried the Big Boy. EZ-Track comes in 15" ,18", 22", 26", 28", 33.25", and 35.5" radii. The largest available for th 5' wide layout would be the 28" - barely, since these radius specs are centerline measurements. If you find that the 28 works - go for it.

If not you may want to stick to the shorter locos and stock. Good luck

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by NTDN

Hmm..5x8 would give you a max outter radious of about 28" should be pretty good for it. It also depends on which bigboy you get, each companies engines seem to be a little different in performaces.

I don't own a Bigboy, so i can't tell you for sure what it'll handle, but as a 4-8-8-4, it definatly needs larger curves,.

Hmm...you could go with a 4.5x8, that'd be 26" curves, or 4.25x8, giving 25" curves (or 24" using any quick track product).

Yea, they should be able to take the 24's, but i'd play safe and go with a 26.

what you should do is hit the LHS and see if they've got a layout set up and fi they're willing to let you try a big boy on it and see how it handles the various curves. also if they let you try one, i'd try a few different nodels, find the right fit :)

EDIT: ignore that about different models, seems the only one i see is a Rivarossi in various colors of Union Pacific.

Jay.

What's the LHS?[?]

[Anonymous]

LHs = local hobby shop

[Anonymous]

Oh, o.k. Another thing, if I use E-Z track, how should I ballast it? I was thinking of just sprinkling it over and on the sides of the track. Any suggestions?

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by 4884bigboy

Oh, o.k. Another thing, if I use E-Z track, how should I ballast it? I was thinking of just sprinkling it over and on the sides of the track. Any suggestions?

I use it for planning purposes only, so once i nail down a layout, it's time to switch to track and cork setup. (note at this point even though the layout was using E-Ztrack, the conversion does give credence to minor changes in layout for the betterment).

But if you want to balast it, i'd say lightly coat the roadbed and inbetween thr rails with some glue, then pour sand over it, shake off excess sand and spray a 50/50 water/glue mix over the sand that stayed (the water is so it'll creep inbetween the sand and secure it better). remembering to filling the bald spots first.

Best to do it in sections, leftside, then rightside, then inbetween the rails. aslo tape off the rails so no sand get's glued to them.

[Anonymous]

A fellow michigainen I belive. I got a 10X12 shed for my layout. If possible make it is big as possible. If you want to run a bigboy.