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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
New to forum
Posted by
Anonymous
on Monday, November 10, 2003 10:47 PM
Just a quick hello to all. I have recently gotton back into the hobby after 25 years of absence . Sure has changed. Just started a switching yard in the basement.(HO)
Also have a small outdoor G scale and a portable N so enjoy all sizes.
I am having some trouble with couipler brakaways if anyone has any advise on that.
Also has anyone done any modeling of the CRANDIC?
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Tuesday, November 11, 2003 5:33 AM
In HO, the kadee seems to be the defacto standard of the hobby. Their quality knuckle couple has been around for 30 years plus. During this time KD has developed a comprehensive system of couplers, mounting brackets and hardware to fit virtually every HO model locomotive or car built..
The KD #5, or the new #58 fits most freight cars. Locomotives vary and you should go the the KD coupler coversion site for the correct coupler.
www.kadee.com/conv/list.htm
http://www.nmra.org/beginner/couplers.html
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eastcoast
Member since
October 2012
527 posts
Posted by
eastcoast
on Tuesday, November 11, 2003 8:50 AM
Welcome ,Dave.
( APPLAUSE )
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Tuesday, November 11, 2003 9:55 AM
Welcome to the forums, Dave! Post away and have fun!
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Tuesday, November 11, 2003 10:13 AM
Kaddee and other knuckel couples uncoupling? Acording to some it can't happen. Here are the solutions. The first three are mandatory. First, only use the ones with the metal coil springs. 2. buy a kaddee couple height tool and set all your couples for height and "air hose" height and free swinging without droop. 3. dips or bumps in your track cause it big time, level them out. 4. paint your couplers with ceramcoat burnt sienna on the inside faces where the couples pull against each other. This added roughness can fix them, but too much can cause uncoupling problems by sticking springs and joints. 5. Use "dummy" couplers sold for unit train use. They look like knuckle couplers but don't uncouple and are lots cheaper. 6 put a small piece of wire on the axels on one truck on each car to generate some pull, keeps them from jiggling loose. 7 put the hornhooks back on. Welcome. FRED
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Tuesday, November 11, 2003 1:18 PM
"7. Put the hornhooks back on."
Now thats my kind of answer [:)] Radical, to the point, and counter to current trends in the hobby. Unfortunatly horn hooks drove me so nuts that is why I switched to Kadees in the first place. (Which is the only brand I use)
[:D][8D][:D][8D][:D][8D][:D][8D][:D][8D][:D][8D][:D]
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Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Tuesday, November 11, 2003 3:28 PM
Hornhooks are still the NMRA standard are they not? Walthers still sell them for like $2 a dozen. When i loose 2/3 of my consist and have to back my train up 1/2 way around my layout when visitors are laughing I wi***he heck I never replaced my first horn hook coupler. I even went so far as to superglue a couple together but it caused derailments...so don't superglue couplers together. FRED
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dave9999
Member since
June 2003
From: Along the Murphy Branch
1,410 posts
Posted by
dave9999
on Tuesday, November 11, 2003 10:37 PM
Hey Fred, the superglue idea has crossed my mind more than once, believe me! My problem seems to bewith Mchenry couplers on my IHC passenger cars. The couplers want to stay in the open position.
Any slack in the train and they uncouple.Have you had any experience with these? Dave
GO GATORS !! Old layout
http://photobucket.com/albums/v491/davegator/
New layout
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v491/davegator/New%20Layout%20Building/
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