Modular matchup

[n2mopac]

Went to Lowe's yesterday and checked on "T"nuts and bolts. I need hardware for 74 legs for this layout. I was able to bet 5/15 hardward, everything I needed, for less than $20. I think these will work great. Thanks for everyone's input.
Ron

[n2mopac]

QUOTE: Originally posted by flee307

I would avoid cutting the track directly over the joints in the modules. Any future movement, settling, warping, or misalignment can cause a hump which causes knuckle coupler to unknuckle. Better to use a "snap track" section to join modules with the split in the middle. Be warned you can really have a severe problem by cutting flex track in the center of a curve. The two now unjoined ends will spring straight causing a bad misalignment. Some say to super glue it to the ties, but this really isn't a fix because you must loosen ties to slip on joiners. FRED

Let me clarify my intentions, then tell me if I am making a mistake. I am building "modular" benchwork in case I have to move it. I was planning to lay the trackwork continuously and only cut it if and when I have to move it. I assume when that happens I can come back and cut in sectional gap bridges at that time if necessary. Does this sound reasonable, or is there something I have not thought of here?
Ron

[Anonymous]

A popular technique over here is to use copper-clad sleepers (Ties) at board joints. You solder the track to these, making sure you're cut a gap in the copper cladding to stop shorts. I think most people make copper-clad ties from circuit board "blanks" - the stuff that is used to create printed circuit boards. As the copper-clad ties are screwed to the board, they make a strong, solid way of crossing board joints, with no rail joiners needed.

[Anonymous]

I would avoid cutting the track directly over the joints in the modules. Any future movement, settling, warping, or misalignment can cause a hump which causes knuckle coupler to unknuckle. Better to use a "snap track" section to join modules with the split in the middle. Be warned you can really have a severe problem by cutting flex track in the center of a curve. The two now unjoined ends will spring straight causing a bad misalignment. Some say to super glue it to the ties, but this really isn't a fix because you must loosen ties to slip on joiners. FRED

[n2mopac]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Jetrock

Interesting indeed--I have been looking for the same sort of information since I want my layout to be semi-portable (it will spend most of its time in the garage, but is sized to fit in the back of my wagon so I can exhibit it at shows etcetera.) I like the idea of making alignment pins from cut-off bolts. I've seen the kink of using short pieces of sectional track between segments but I'm trying to avoid that, as most of my trackage will be in-street. I guess I could build little sections of track with concrete over 'em...

I am avoiding the bridge gaps as well. My plan is to lay the track continuously, then cut through it with a razor saw after it is in place and slip a rail joiner in. Each "module" will be wired hot with connectors betewen, soconductivity will not be an issue. The simple nut and bolt idea sounds promising. I don't need much adjustment. brobably 1/8" or less on most legs. I may give that a try... unless another better idea comes along before I get started.
Thanks,
Ron

[Wdlgln005]

The new laser levelers ought to help you get the tabletop flat & level. The Tnut & bolt in the legs helps when the basement floor isn't so level.

Between modules, the Clinchfield layout introduced the idea of a masonite bridge between sections. Maybe Andy S. can provide a reference for that layout. It was designed to be portable. Perhaps it's time for MR to sponsor another project layout similar to that one, with one end open for the operator to have lots of fun!

[Anonymous]

Yeah. It's called shims which are little thin pieces of wood or other hard material. Seriously, cruise the alleys in the poor part of town and get the levelers off of old washers, dryers, and refers littering the alley. Just take a can of mace to ward off mean dogs and ugly housewives. If its not really mobile (like yours?), I block up one end and get it attached and all leveled with c clamps. I then mount the legs with deck screws and screw the sections together. Then remove the c clamps. Done. If I have to move, well most of the layout will need the legs to come off to fit through the doors sideway anyway. There are also real long nuts at the hardware to hook threaded rods together. They will give a lot of adjustment too. FRED

[Jetrock]

Interesting indeed--I have been looking for the same sort of information since I want my layout to be semi-portable (it will spend most of its time in the garage, but is sized to fit in the back of my wagon so I can exhibit it at shows etcetera.) I like the idea of making alignment pins from cut-off bolts. I've seen the kink of using short pieces of sectional track between segments but I'm trying to avoid that, as most of my trackage will be in-street. I guess I could build little sections of track with concrete over 'em...

[BruceJob]

Hey, n2...

A fellow who calls himself "Railway Bob" has a website on which he details his modular contruction techniques. He provides great instructions and photos over several pages. You might find this particular page of interest in which he describes how he joins modules with homemade alignment pins and a short piece of sectional track. Follow the link to this page and see item 2 "Locate the holes for the alignment pins":

http://www.railwaybob.com/Modules/ModuleConstruction/ModConstr05.htm

Best Regards,

Bruce J.

[Anonymous]

You can put a bolt into the bottom of each leg. That's pretty cheap. You won't really have to worry about wearing it out, since it sounds like the layout will be "installed" for most of its life. A slightly fancier way of doing it would be with a T-nut and an actual "foot".

If you are making it modular simply for ease of future moving, why not put everything in at once, and then cut throught the subroadbed after the benchwork and tracklaying is done, but before scenery? Don't know how that would work exactly, but maybe someone else has experience with this...

Andrew

[n2mopac]

I am working on the benchwork for my new layout. I want to be able to move it if necessity arises, so I am making it in sections like a modular layout (though to my own stantards, not N Track, etc.). Here is a question for you modular folks. How do you make these modules match up perfectly flat and level? Do you use floor levelers on all of the legs. I am considering this, but it will add a consideral amount of cost to a layout that has 90 linear feet of benchowrk. Is there another, cheaper way? Thanks for your help.
Ron