Adhesive Caulk Tracklaying...

[detting]

Have you tried laying tracks using DAP Adhesive Caulk, the method was demonstrated in a recent MR. I personally have used this method with success on both plywood and pink foam board. I have only tried this method on level surfaces, but not on any kind of grade. Please answer the poll and post your positive or negative experiences with this method.

[Anonymous]

Works great on the several helices we have built. Holds the cork to the roadbed (its HIPS) and the track to the cork very well. When used together with cork you can still use spikes as needed to help with rail alignment.

[Anonymous]

When I start building again, I'm going to try it. It seems better than putting holes in the ties.

Rob

[Anonymous]

I wanted to try, but have not yet found an adhesive caulk - no one in eastern Ontario seems to carry the DAP brand recommended by MR's Andy Sperandeo, so I went for Lepage "No More Nails". It works really well, but dries white, so you have to be careful where you put it.

Andrew

[dknelson]

I tried using an "alternative brand" of clear caulk and was not entirely pleased with it, but it was not specifically an adhesive caulk so the fault is the material not the method. I am having a little problem finding the exact brand of DAP as they have a huge variety of caulks and the local Home Depot had an incomplete selection.
Dave Nelson

[detting]

I used DAP Kitchen and Bath Clear Adhesive Caulk, since I did not find the exact one the article mentioned at the Home Depot. I nearly picked up almond by mistake. This worked fine. I think the key is that the caulk says "adhesive" on it.

[Anonymous]

Yeah, "Adhesive" is important. If you get silicone caulk, it will peel off very easily (silicone doesn't like to stick to stuff).

Rob

[Anonymous]

I used contact cement, holds great, dries quick but forget trying to pull the track back up and re-use it. :)

-Dale

[Anonymous]

You can use push pin (map pins...plasitic headed thumbtacks) to hold the rail in position until the adhesive sets rather than track nails. The new way I lay track is put the cork down with yellow wood glue and push pins. When dry (6 hours to overnight ) I then install the track with the push pins and then ballast it in place. When the ballast is dry I remove the push pins and touch up the ballast. Less steps and less materials. FRED

[Anonymous]

For those of you who want to try adhesive caulk but can't find DAP, I use a product called POWER GRAB by the Locktite Corp. This works extremely well, you can stick just about anything with this stuff. I even used it to reset a loose brick in my wall. It even comes with a self contained applicator so you don't need a caulk gun. Hope this helps.

[dknelson]

I sent an email to DAP asking why this particular adhesive caulk is so hard to find
They just responded today. First of all the guy said DAP is being literally bombarded by inquiries from model railroaders, which is interesting and suggests that we have a certain amount of marketing clout even outside pure hobby products. He also said that the particular adhesive caulk in question is one of their older products, has fewer advanced features than their current line, and thus is not typically seen at the "big box" home improvement stores. He suggests trying older hardware stores with a specialty in plumbing. I suggested to DAP that they might find it profitable to contact Andy Sperandeo or someone at MR, and suggest what modern products in their line might be sent for an authoritative workout.
Dave Nelson

[Anonymous]

I saw the Chuck Hitchcock article on using adhesive caulk, but could not find the DAP brand pictured. Was there another article? I bought a product called Polyseamseal All-Purpose Adhesive Caulk, made by OSI Sealants, and it seems to work ok. I've also used Aleene's Tacky glue, available at Michael's, Wal-mart, or craft stores, and that works well too.
Gary