Older HO engines

[Anonymous]

I have a couple older engines that I tested on a live track and seem to work, but they sputter. How do I clean them? and what type of cleaner can I use on the track and wheels to get the oxidation off?

[Anonymous]

Firstly, you'll need to clean out all the gunge from the gearing - I tend to dismantle the trucks and wash all the parts in warm soapy water with washing up liquid (dishwashing detergent) added to it. The washing up liquid is good for this as it is a degreaser. Make sure you rinse all traces of detergent off! Then rebuild and add a little plastic-safe grease. Wheels can be cleaned with a small rotory wire brush (the type supplied with Dremel or similar minidrills), just don't try this on traction tyred wheels as it'll shred the tyres! Body shells and other parts can be cleaned with the warm water/washing up liquid mix, rinsed, and placed in a warm, dry place to dry out. Motors seldom require much attention - a couple of drops of light oil on the armature bearings is usually enough.

Track cleaning is a matter of personal taste - I use a Peco track cleaning block - I think the equivelent in the US is the Walthers "Bright Boy". These are probably best for heavier cleaning such as removing oxidation.

[Anonymous]

Greetings,

After 20 years of storage I cleaned and all my motive power with contact cleaner in a can, then lubed and oiled.

This was recommended by my local hobby shop and my motive power runs like new.

Mark in Texas.

[IRONROOSTER]

If you have open frame motors (common on older locomotives) use a little contact cleaner (I use Rail Zip or No Ox) on a swab to reach in and clean the commuter (brass part inside the motor that spins when you rotate the motor shaft).
Enjoy
Paul

[Anonymous]

I guess I would have to ask what kind of older locomotives you are running.
I have found that my Atlas locomotive from the mid 80's to present day run
just as good as they did the day that I bought them. I just find that I have to
clean the wheels a little more often then I did when they were new. I have
also found that many older locomotives are not worth the time that you will
spend working on them. You would be better off putting them on a shelf and
buying some of the newer better running models.
C Conaway

[ndbprr]

A couple of questions are in order:
1. Does either the engine have brass wheels or is the track brass?
2. do you see apraks at the wheels when it runs?
3. What type of engines?

If the answer to #1 and/or2 is yes you have some cleaning to do. a hobby shop will sell you a bright boy eraser to clean the top of the rails. If the track is brass just thow it away and get nickel sliver for that very reason. If it is silvery make sure it isn't steel (check with a magnet) and throw it away if it is magnetic. If it still stutters with the track clean hold the leads against the motor brushes or clip them on and do the same thing with the wheels of the engine using an ink eraser or the edge of the bright boy. Then do the same thing using an ordinary pencil eraser on the commutator ring if you can see it. Different engines have different problems as to loss of power but if it stutters it is probably one of the two mentioned above. also do the cleaning recommended.

[ndbprr]

Make that "Sparks at the wheels" in question #2. I can't type today!

[detting]

Start by cleaning the simple things to clean first, and that is the track. If the track is dirty, clean wheels will only get dirty.

I have to agree with ndbprr's comments about nickel-silver track. I have always tried to save a buck by using brass and steel track, but ended up being frustrated with poor performance and ended spending more time cleaning track than running trains. Since conversion to nickel-silver, things have been rolling smoothly. I have found that the best way to clean track is to use one of the Centerline track cleaners. They are a bit pricy, but you will never have to use a Bright Boy again.

The Benefit of using the Centerline car is that it puts cleaner (Goo-Gone) on the rails and cleans the wheels of the engines and cars that follow it around. You usually do not have to tear your engine apart using this method, since the engine starts performing better after the first pass!

K.I.S.S.
Later...