MisterBeasley, A is a Super Weight and the B is a powered but no flywheel engine, both have the same motor. But, the B as the plactic clip on coupler holder. I have a Super weight Chassis and will switch out the guts to it later.
As far as the Horny Hooks, to tell you the truth in some ways they are under rated. But, only reason I am using them is because I don't have the funds to buy all the # 5's I would need at one time. I am adding just the couplers box's and using the Horn's is to get them ready to the next step. But, 30 cars drag seems to think they are just fine.
On the turns, I am sad to say there are still 2 18" turns. Rest have been up graded to 22 to 26. Bright side I am buying lumber!
Yes, I do know to make sure the couplers move freely and there is only 2 right hand turns. 1 on the A line and same on the B line.
Coupler height has not been much of a problem with the ones that had Kadee's added.
One thing I did find last night is the coupler boxes act as a brake in the turns! Boxes I am using as for a lack of better terms has Ears on either side of the box! Happen too roll one to see how freely it rolled into the 26" turn and it was like someone turned the brake wheel. Ears where hitting the wheels in the turn. Got out the rail cutters and stared cutting off Ear's! Slow speed is much better and odd clicking sounds are gone. Tripled headed PK's E-6's could over come the drag action, but way better now.
Thanks for the link and the help as well folks.
Dragging 70 cars around the board makes me a happy man.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
As far as mounting KDs on Athearn locos heres the best plan of action.
Mount the #5 in the KD coupler box..It doesn't s take long and simple to do.
As far as couplers sticking out from the cars..They should look like this.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
cudaken wrote: Or how far should the box stick out from under the rolling stock? Cuda Ken
Or how far should the box stick out from under the rolling stock?
The upper lid of the Kadee box should have the lip against the leading edge of the car. Basically flush with the car end. The most important thing other than coupler height is that the box be in the centerline of the car.
Jim
It's really going to pay off in the long run to get rid of the horn-hooks, particularly on your engines. If you've got a lot of "horny" rolling stock, you can make up a few half-n-half cars with a horn-hook on one end and a Kadee on the other. The design of horn-hooks makes them very assymetrical. Often, they will cause problems on right turns, but work fine on left turns, or vice versa.
Is the B-unit a dummy? It may need weight if it's causing problems.
I've got some very old Athearn F-units. I've replaced all of the horn-hooks. I used Kadee #5's on the B-unit and the tail-end of the A's, but I needed long-shanks for the front of the A's. This gives me pretty close coupling, where the distance between the B-unit and the A's is pretty small. Still, I can run the whole consist around 18-inch radius curves with no problem.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Cuda,
I also recommend that you get the kadee height/coupler gauge.... it will save you a lot of tinkering/troubles later.
Brian
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
If you visit Kadee's website, they will give you all the proper clearances and dimensions for each type of coupler they offer.
It looks like the Series 30 (#5) pivot-point to the end of the coupler ranges from 1/2" to just under 3/4".
I ask this for two reasons.
1 Have powered F-7's A and B Athearns. B's coupler sticks out about a 1/4 inch if not a little more to the freight. When running with just the A unit it's fine. Hook a load to it and it lifts a axle and off the rail it goes. Using the stock horn hooks they came with. Bought around March or April.
2 Up grading my cheap LL, Tyco and Bachmans rolling stock. Installing Kadee coupler boxes and # 5's as I go. How far should the shank stick out from the car? Or how far should the box stick out from under the rolling stock?