Tim Fahey
Musconetcong Branch of the Lehigh Valley RR
I agree, I would look at the trackwork. The Bachmann cars will navigate smaller radius turns better than the Branchline or Walthers RTR without modifications.
The Bachmann cars have no center sill (that extends under the car and between the trucks). The Branchline and Walthers cars both have the sills and this limits the amount they can turn. There are other parts (especially the hoses and other details around the coupler) on the Branchline car that may also interfere, but the sills create the absolute limit. I believe that the Bachmann ones should work on 18" curves, the Branchline indicate 22" and the Walthers require 24" radius curves.
Also, if there is a problem with the cars derailing, there are a couple of other things you can try to identify the issue. If you slowly push the car by hand, you'll feel the car "stick" before the wheels jump the track if the radius is too tight.
If the cars are close-coupled, then run a couple by hand to make sure the car ends themselves aren't coming in contact with each other. This would also be a problem.
Another option (similar msowsun's post about removing the middle wheelset) is to replace the 6-wheel trucks with 4-wheel trucks. I believe a lot of prototypes did this when better trucks were available at the time they got around to rebuilding the cars.
If you are unsure that your trackwork is accurate, you could get one of the ribbonrail track guages. You can get them in various radii, they are a metal guage that fits between the rails.
I don't really think you'll need to do much modification on those cars, they should work on your curves without a problem. You may just have a little fine-tuning to do.
Randy
Thank you oh Guru if the DCC world!
Got an Atlas RS3 and a Mantua Camelback in CNJ. Will put sound in both.
I am going to rework that Hudson, I like it and the Mike is so good that I feel I can cure th Hudson also.
Is that old post serachable or History?
Oh yes this thread cost me $17.99 got Branchline 50ft undecorated Express Reefer. Had to see what this was all about!
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker wrote: The capacitor circuit would be instead of a decoder. The idea is to keep the light from flickering if there is any contact issue - lights may flicker over poor contact area where you otherwise don't even notice it with a powered loco (the loco doesn;t hesitate, but the lights flicker). The issue with QSI decoders is they have a rather large capacitor in them to keep the sound alive through these momentary glitches. Good thing, yes, but since it is connected directly across the decoder's power supply, on initial startup the capacitor appears as a dead short until it charges, This is long enough to trip some boosters, and partially a cause of the inablity to program them on the program track of some system. A proper capacitor circuit adds a diode and resitor to the mix, the resistor limits the instantaneous current through the capacitor while it charges, at the expense of slightly extending the charge time. The diode allows the capacitor to discharge and provide the 'backup power' function without being limited by the resistor. --Randy
Randy, is this the problem with the 1st generation Hudson from BLI? I asked on their forum and never got an answer. Still running it with the short address.
P.S. 100% of tracks is in and (2) of the three TT's are in and working. Looks like we may add up to Wilkes Barrie to the plan (Phase 1a) Phase 2 is still on hold. Posted some pics on my website.
Thanks a lot for those links, they look stunning I think. Anyone who knows if threre is an easy way to put DCC friendly lights into them?
Magnus
I had alot of trouble with all my heavyweights on a modular club layout because the track was so bad.
Here is the solution: Make sure one truck is snug and one truck is loose so that you have a "Three Point" suspension. Then remove the center axle from the 3 axle trucks. Made a world of difference on bad track. The missing axle will allow the trucks to operate on bad track and you will never even notice it is not there.
Do anyone have a link to these passenger cars? I'm trying to find good ones at a decent price.
claycts wrote: tcf511 wrote:I have a BLI N&W J and would like to put together a passenger consist to go with it. I bought a set of six Bachmann Spectrum cars. One time around my layout and I realized that my curves are too tight for these cars because three out of six derailed on the curves. I'm considering getting Brachline cars instead. They appear to have good detail and their ads say that they will run on 22" curves (mine are 26 and 28). Do any of you have experience with these cars on tighter curves like mine? I know that IHC and Athearn make shorter cars but I'm told that they lack detail. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks. Not the cars, have you checked the gauge of the track? Have you checked the gauge in the wheels? With this radius it must be flex track, correct? If so any kinks? Are your transitions from track to track (rail joints) smooth? You are talking about parking a lot of money because of a possible track problem. How to fix it; 1. Get some pins 2. Run the train SLOW and put a pin where a car derails 3. run the train AGAIN and put a pin where the car derails. Same Place, that is your problem. Different place then REPEAT 2 and 3 as required till you find ALL the bad spots. The above is an assumpution that the cars are correct weight, the couplers are the correct height and location and the bolsters on the cars are not binding. Good luck!
tcf511 wrote:I have a BLI N&W J and would like to put together a passenger consist to go with it. I bought a set of six Bachmann Spectrum cars. One time around my layout and I realized that my curves are too tight for these cars because three out of six derailed on the curves. I'm considering getting Brachline cars instead. They appear to have good detail and their ads say that they will run on 22" curves (mine are 26 and 28). Do any of you have experience with these cars on tighter curves like mine? I know that IHC and Athearn make shorter cars but I'm told that they lack detail. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.
Not the cars, have you checked the gauge of the track? Have you checked the gauge in the wheels?
With this radius it must be flex track, correct? If so any kinks? Are your transitions from track to track (rail joints) smooth? You are talking about parking a lot of money because of a possible track problem.
How to fix it;
1. Get some pins
2. Run the train SLOW and put a pin where a car derails
3. run the train AGAIN and put a pin where the car derails.
Same Place, that is your problem. Different place then REPEAT 2 and 3 as required till you find ALL the bad spots.
The above is an assumpution that the cars are correct weight, the couplers are the correct height and location and the bolsters on the cars are not binding.
Good luck!