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Central Valley Truss bridge

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  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: S.E. Adirondacks, NY
  • 3,246 posts
Posted by modelmaker51 on Friday, August 18, 2006 2:11 PM

 chessiecat wrote:
Bruce I'll give the T-pins a try at holding the parts. I will have to make a board and straightedge jig and get started. The bridge is so nice that I guess I want it to be perfect. Thanks for your imput!    Jim

Non of us are perfect! Just try to as accurate as you can, but don't obsess about it, remember this is supposed to be fun!

In most cases, small mistakes or errors are nothing to sweat over, as has been previously mentioned just fill in gaps with epoxy or putty, sand and blend in or cover, etc. Once a model is painted and/or weathered, any imperfections will dissapear.

A lot of people let the fear of not doing a "perfect" job keep them from tackling more challenging projects. You learn by doing. Have fun!

Jay 

C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1 

Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums 

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: US
  • 1,400 posts
Posted by fiatfan on Friday, August 18, 2006 9:17 AM
I will second what Bruce said.  It is a nice kit.  The key is to take your time and follow the old carpenter's rule - measure twice, cut once. 

Tom

Life is simple - eat, drink, play with trains!

Go Big Red!

PA&ERR "If you think you are doing something stupid, you're probably right!"

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: Eastern Panhandle of West Virginia
  • 245 posts
Posted by chessiecat on Friday, August 18, 2006 6:27 AM
Bruce I'll give the T-pins a try at holding the parts. I will have to make a board and straightedge jig and get started. The bridge is so nice that I guess I want it to be perfect. Thanks for your imput!    Jim
  • Member since
    January 2002
  • From: Texas
  • 231 posts
Posted by bwftex on Thursday, August 17, 2006 10:53 PM

Jim,
 Code 83 will work fine with the bridge ties. The rail will slide easily but will be in perfect gauge. Once installed and the rails are connected to the rails leading to the bridge they will no longer slide and will otherwise be held firmly so there is no need to fasten or glue the rail to the ties.


I used the bridge drawings placed on a building board and cut the angles while laying each part over the plans. No miter was needed. The pieces were cut just a bit over size and then sanded to fit. I would suggest making each part and then holding it in place over the plan with t-pins as you go. Once you are satisfied that everything matches up well with the plans then glue them all together. If your cuts are a little rough or are not quite perfect leaving a small gap at one end of a angle cut when laid out on the plans a little epoxy can be used to fill the gap and your joint will still be strong. The gussets parts will cover much of the angle cuts. A little Squadron White or Green putty will take care of any imperfections at places the gussets don’t cover. The main thing is that if the individual parts lay over the plan exactly then everything will work out fine. This kit builds up into an impressive little bridge I'll bet you will be very pleased with. Bruce


  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: Eastern Panhandle of West Virginia
  • 245 posts
Central Valley Truss bridge
Posted by chessiecat on Thursday, August 17, 2006 9:43 PM
I'm getting ready to build CV Truss bridge and was wondering what is the easiest and most accurate way to cut the angles for this bridge.I have a razor saw and miterbox but the angles they call for on the instructions don't sound right.  I also was wondering if anyone had tried to use code 83 rail on the plastic tie strips that come with the kit? Any help will be appreciated!  Smile [:)]    Thanks Jim

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