Code 100 to code 83

[der5997]

That's the way I'd go. However, check to see if you need to shim up under the code 83 for a short distance, otherwise the code 83 right next to the code 100 may "float".

[der5997]

That's the way I'd go. However, check to see if you need to shim up under the code 83 for a short distance, otherwise the code 83 right next to the code 100 may "float".

[cacole]

Andy,

Your solution of soldering a rail joiner to the larger rail and then flattening it for the smaller rail to sit on sounds like a much better and simpler solution than the code conversion rail joiners! I have tried the conversion joiners and had all kinds of problems with them not fitting properly on the code 100 rail or being too easily bent out of shape when trying to match up the rail heights. I will definitely keep your way in mind the next time I try to join two dissimilar codes of rail.

Charles Cole

[cacole]

Andy,

Your solution of soldering a rail joiner to the larger rail and then flattening it for the smaller rail to sit on sounds like a much better and simpler solution than the code conversion rail joiners! I have tried the conversion joiners and had all kinds of problems with them not fitting properly on the code 100 rail or being too easily bent out of shape when trying to match up the rail heights. I will definitely keep your way in mind the next time I try to join two dissimilar codes of rail.

Charles Cole

[Sperandeo]

Hello Ross,

I recently posted an explanation of how to join rails of different sizes on the Layouts and Layout Building section of this forum. Here it is again, with apologies to those who've already seen it:

1. Slip a rail joiner for the larger size rail halfway onto the end ot the larger rail.

2. Use flat-nose pliers to squeeze the open end of the rail joiner flat.

3. Solder the rail joiner to the larger rail, and tin the flattened end of the rail joiner.

4. Test the fit of the smaller rail with its base resting on the flattened end of the rail joiner. File the flattened end of the rail joiner and/or the base of the smaller rail until the two rail head heights match when the base of the smaller rail is resting on the flattened joiner.

5. Tin the underside of the base of the smaller rail.

6. Solder the smaller rail on top of the flattened joiner, making sure to align the edges of the rail heads on the gauge side of the rails.

7. Clean up any solder flux or excess solder. If you do the soldering neatly there should be very little to clean up, but I usually give the joint a few swipes with a needle file to make sure it's smooth both on top and on the gauge side. I also scrub the joint quickly with an old toothbrush dipped in denatured alcohol to clean up any flux residue.

This easy technique takes much less time to do than to describe, and it will allow you to change rail sizes whenever and wherever you wish.

And by the way, thanks for signing your name.

So long,

Andy

[Sperandeo]

Hello Ross,

I recently posted an explanation of how to join rails of different sizes on the Layouts and Layout Building section of this forum. Here it is again, with apologies to those who've already seen it:

1. Slip a rail joiner for the larger size rail halfway onto the end ot the larger rail.

2. Use flat-nose pliers to squeeze the open end of the rail joiner flat.

3. Solder the rail joiner to the larger rail, and tin the flattened end of the rail joiner.

4. Test the fit of the smaller rail with its base resting on the flattened end of the rail joiner. File the flattened end of the rail joiner and/or the base of the smaller rail until the two rail head heights match when the base of the smaller rail is resting on the flattened joiner.

5. Tin the underside of the base of the smaller rail.

6. Solder the smaller rail on top of the flattened joiner, making sure to align the edges of the rail heads on the gauge side of the rails.

7. Clean up any solder flux or excess solder. If you do the soldering neatly there should be very little to clean up, but I usually give the joint a few swipes with a needle file to make sure it's smooth both on top and on the gauge side. I also scrub the joint quickly with an old toothbrush dipped in denatured alcohol to clean up any flux residue.

This easy technique takes much less time to do than to describe, and it will allow you to change rail sizes whenever and wherever you wish.

And by the way, thanks for signing your name.

So long,

Andy

[Anonymous]

I had the same problem. When I spoke with my local retailer, he suggested that I remove the ties from the code 83 ( for a couple of inches) and replace with wooden ties large enough to raise the rail to the code 100. It worked beautifully. You could also shim under the first couple of ties on the code 83 to raise the height.

Good Luck

[Anonymous]

I had the same problem. When I spoke with my local retailer, he suggested that I remove the ties from the code 83 ( for a couple of inches) and replace with wooden ties large enough to raise the rail to the code 100. It worked beautifully. You could also shim under the first couple of ties on the code 83 to raise the height.

Good Luck

[dknelson]

Have you tried the Code 83 to 100 transition track that Walthers sells? It is about a four or five inch length of track.
Dave Nelson

[dknelson]

Have you tried the Code 83 to 100 transition track that Walthers sells? It is about a four or five inch length of track.
Dave Nelson

[Anonymous]

I currently took apart my layout to change it from a double main with concrete sleepers to single main concrete with sidings. My problem is I can’t get my Peco concrete track to fit right with the Atlas code 83. I have tried the code 83 to 100 rail jointers from atlas and I must say they are worthless. If anyone knows what to use or a technique that works so the tops are flush I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks Ross
Spokane, WA

[Anonymous]

I currently took apart my layout to change it from a double main with concrete sleepers to single main concrete with sidings. My problem is I can’t get my Peco concrete track to fit right with the Atlas code 83. I have tried the code 83 to 100 rail jointers from atlas and I must say they are worthless. If anyone knows what to use or a technique that works so the tops are flush I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks Ross
Spokane, WA