Cooling The Garage 1 Small Solution

[MisterBeasley]

QUOTE: Originally posted by andrechapelon
All we (who am I kidding? That should be all I) need really is a high capacity dehumidifier.

We do have a de-humidifier in our basement. Unfortunately, these things generate a lot of waste heat, so, while making the basement drier, it also makes it hotter. I'm not sure about the relative efficiencies of AC units vs. dehumidifiers, but this year I took a really old AC (not as old as some of my trains, but close) and put it in the basement window.

[ac4400fan]

so far in pleased with the unit yes the cost arrgggg but im renting and cant put any holes in the wall ,im lucky ther was a vent where i put the outlets from the unit ,otherwise id be stuck with the heat ,,but ,anything is better then nothing ,it was 104 ,and got the garage down to 86 which is berible for me .

Carl..

[andrechapelon]

QUOTE: Originally posted by MisterBeasley

For my train room, I got a through-the-wall unit, about 15,000 BTU. At the time, that was the biggest one that would run on 120 volts. Yes, it does require a big hole through the wall and some mounting brackets, but then it stays there forever and you don't have to invite 2 friends over and serve them beer and pizza just to get it in and out of the window when the seasons change.

I'm in New England, so the temperature isn't anywhere near as brutal in the summer as some of you folks are experiencing. (Ha-ha. That's why we can get pink foam and you can't.) We only run this thing to get the room down to the comfort zone when we need it.

[rambling monologue]

About that crack about temperatire: Yeah, right. I spent a great deal of my childhood in the Mojave Desert, so I know a little something about heat. I currently spend half a year in Monterey, CA and half a year up here in Maine.

Heat by itself isn't so bad. When it's coupled with humidity, it can be a killer. I just got finished putting up a fence up here in beautiful downtown mid-coast Maine. The temps here haven't been all that bad, but when humidity is thrown into the equation, it's miserable to work outdoors. It's been humid as (can't say He-- cause that's a dry heat) all get out up here recently. We've also been having some fairly good breezes, but it doesn't help. Sweat doesn't evaporate in those conditions and it's the evaporation that keeps you cool. Drowning in your own sweat is not a pleasant situation.

As for pink/blue foam, you're right that it's tough to find,at least it is in California. It's too bad. A lot of people think it's because of California environmental laws, but as near as I've been able to determine, the stuff is legal. It can be had, it's just extremely hard to find. I wonder if I could start a business importing extruded foam into California and selling it at a premium (but not so much a premium as to make it non-competitive with lumber). Either that or selling the stuff on eBay. Given the prices I've seen some real crap sell for, I could clean up selling top-notch foam. [:D]

One final thing, in answer to someone else. Swamp coolers only work in dry environments. If your sweat won't evaporate fast enough to keep you cool, a swamp cooler won't either. In fact, the emphasis will be on swamp, not on cooler. Swamp coolers work great in the desert.

[/rambling monologue]

Andre

[james saunders]

Just get an Aircon [:D]

I sell them at work, so I can fix you up... (might cost a bit to get to US or Can) [:P]


seriously, looks like that could work well, I'll look into it too...

[andrechapelon]

QUOTE: Originally posted by vsmith

Garage? Hell I want one for my bedroom! Will those hose thingies work thru a window?

Been 100 and humid here the last few days, nights are muggy and unpleasant

Yes, they will. The Home Depot demo I saw had the thing venting out a window. I was considering one for the basement since the hoses would be long enough to vent through a basement window. However, our basement generally runs 15 or so degrees cooler than the house. All we (who am I kidding? That should be all I) need really is a high capacity dehumidifier.

One caveat is that the most recent issue of Consumer Report warns that portables aren't as efficient as window models of equivalent BTU capacity. It also warns that in certain circumstances, the actual BTU capacity may be only 1/2 the the stated capacity. CU also recommended the double hose variety over the single hose variety. Portables are also quite a bit more expensive from what I've seen. You can get a 10,000 BTU window A/C for less than $200 at the local Home Depot. The 10K BTU portable unit I saw was priced at close to $500.

'Course, the advantage of a portable is supposed to be that it can be schlepped from room to room. However you can get 2 window units for the less than the price of 1 portable of equivalent capacity.

Andre

[MisterBeasley]

I took a look at mine. It's 11,500 BTU, 120 volt, 9.8 amp. In your situation, Brad, I would probably try to wire an outlet on the circuit with the door opener. It wouldn't be a good idea to try to run the trains and the AC on the same breaker. For a 2-car garage in NY, this is probably about the right size. You could get away with something smaller for a 1-car.

[bogp40]

QUOTE: Originally posted by whitman500

How difficult is it to cut the hole in the wall? I have a well-insulated garage (drywall, drop ceiling, and carpet) and would like to add an AC unit but am concerned about how to cut through the wall. The exterior of the house is wood boards. Not sure what is underneath. Also, what are the power requirements? I only have two 20A circuits in the garage, one of which routes exclusively to the garage door opener.

This would all depend on the construction of your walls. You are in NY and it must be wood frame(2x4 wall) with sheathing boards or 1/2" CDX ply under the clapboards. When cutting the opening for any modest size 18-20,000 btu, you will inevitably be cutting at least 1 2x4 stud. Find the appropriate location 6-7' high that can be serviced easilly by the extra 20A circuit, make sure this location will allow for cutting only 1 stud, prod with a nail or stud finder, start the opening with a stud to one side. The layout and cut starts one the inside, you should allow for a 2x4 blocking top and bottom to secure the crippled / cut stud(opening height + 3" ). Cut out the drywall, mark a 90 degree with a combination square and Sawzall the 2x4. Now measure the 2 2x4s top/ bottom, If newer construction they should be about 30 1/2" these may need some coaxing to fit in the opening and some DW may be damaged doing so. Nail or screw them to the cut stud, level and secure at the sides. Add a vertical 2x4 block for the other side from the starting full stud. Once satisfied with the opening making sure the AC will actually fit , now you can cut the exterior sheathing/ siding. Use a long drill bit and run through the 4 corners as to give a reference for the exterior cut. You could cut from the inside w/ the Sawzall if skilled enough, but I would recommend connecting the "dots" on the exterior and skillsaw or sawzall the hole. Dry fit the unit some notching may be in order at the bottom to conform to the sometimes irregular chassis of the unit. If you have a thru wall design, the outer case slides off and install is much easier, just secure the case(leaving some slight tilt for condensation draining) and install the unit. If installing a window unit you may need to fabricate angle brackets to the case to secure. Be careful with unit position with this type unit as not to block any side louvers. I generally cut the siding to accept 1x2 trim and top flashing as well as caulking the opening w/ a good OSI or PL Butyl or polurethane caulk. Silicone and painters caulk will not last and stay bonded to the wood. Angle support brackets may be needed under the unit since you don't have the secure mounting as in the thru-wall one. The interior can be patched and trimmed with 2 1/2 casing or 1x. Plug it in and enjoy the comfort of your cool space.
Hope this doesn't confuse you or make it seem complicated. It's not too bad a job.
Bob K.

[vsmith]

Garage? Hell I want one for my bedroom! Will those hose thingies work thru a window?

Been 100 and humid here the last few days, nights are muggy and unpleasant

[whitman500]

How difficult is it to cut the hole in the wall? I have a well-insulated garage (drywall, drop ceiling, and carpet) and would like to add an AC unit but am concerned about how to cut through the wall. The exterior of the house is wood boards. Not sure what is underneath. Also, what are the power requirements? I only have two 20A circuits in the garage, one of which routes exclusively to the garage door opener.

[tarp]

Glad to see you guys have the same problem I do. The garage is so hot in Tucson (just moved here) that I have to wear a sweat band to keep seeing let alone work out there. It seems the best route is to close off one bay with temporary insulated walls and then put in an air conditioner for that space separate form the central air system. I am putting in pull down stairs to the overhead to get some storage space reclamed from one bay for starters. In a year or so we hope to add a room and then the problems other than moving the layout is solved. Stay cool!

[ErnieC]

Gave up on the Arizona heat and enclosed part of the garage (California basement) for a train room. Heated and cooled, works great! Appraiser called it a "hobby room".

[Jetrock]

I'd consider one of those things if I had the garage a little more insulated--I'm in the same neck of the woods as twhite, and the recent spate of 105+ degree days has kept me out of the garage altogether. The only problem that if there isn't at least a tad of insulation then it seems like running a portable a/c unit would add up to some hefty electric bills.

Once it gets down to the mid 90s the ol' eee-lectric fan does a good job of keeping the garage at least tolerable...and once I get the door put in, something resembling a cross-breeze should make it rather nice except during the dog days.l

[Tom Bryant_MR]

Carl, that is really cool (no pun intended) [:D].

I had heard about these last fall when I started a layout in my garage. I'm in central Texas and we see temps usually in the 90's with 100's every couple of years. My garage is insulated on three sides plus under the second story of our house. I decided to insulate the garage door with these panels from Home Depot. The door faces the sun as it sets so this is the hotest area of the garage.



With a portable fan running continously I have been able to keep the temp in the garage to about 85 when the outside is about 95 or so.

Winter results are better in my opinion. This methods keeps about a 20 degree difference in the winter and so far about a 10 degree diff in the summer.

So, I may look into your suggestion and see if I can cut that 85 down to about 75.

Thanks for the post.

[MisterBeasley]

For my train room, I got a through-the-wall unit, about 15,000 BTU. At the time, that was the biggest one that would run on 120 volts. Yes, it does require a big hole through the wall and some mounting brackets, but then it stays there forever and you don't have to invite 2 friends over and serve them beer and pizza just to get it in and out of the window when the seasons change.

I'm in New England, so the temperature isn't anywhere near as brutal in the summer as some of you folks are experiencing. (Ha-ha. That's why we can get pink foam and you can't.) We only run this thing to get the room down to the comfort zone when we need it.

[ac4400fan]

QUOTE: Originally posted by twhite

Carl--I think I'll look into it--we're having a SUPER heat-wave out here in Carmichael and I've had to put a portable fan in the garage just to keep it to a temperature that I can walk into, let alone work on the train.
Thanks for the info.
Tom[:D]
PS: does it have to connect to the central air-conditioning unit?

It is worth it to me man its Hot ,out no question! but worthe the comfort! i love it !

Carl..

P.S Every little bit Helps..

[twhite]

Carl--I think I'll look into it--we're having a SUPER heat-wave out here in Carmichael and I've had to put a portable fan in the garage just to keep it to a temperature that I can walk into, let alone work on the train.
Thanks for the info.
Tom[:D]
PS: does it have to connect to the central air-conditioning unit?

[mlehman]

I don't have any personal experience with portablle, vented air conditioners, but they are the cat's pajamas in certain situations. As long as you can vent them and get rid of the hot air, as Carl shows with the tubes going through the wall, they work pretty well. Sure, it's not 72 degrees in tehre, but it's a heck of a lot better than 101!

I first saw some reviews of these in Consumer Reports about 10 years ago. Like many household durable goods, it probably pays to do a little research. Look for one with an efficient energy rating to keep the power bill down, if nothing else, to get the most bang for your buck. However, I've been seeing these things regularly in the big box stores the last couple of years around here, so that should help bring prices down on the AC units, even if power isn't getting any cheaper.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL

[spidge]

The little woman told me to get one so I would quit taking over the dinning table for assembing and repairing models. She also said I have so much done so far why stop.Get to it, she says.
I will look into as here in Riverside Ca. it is just too hot to go into the garage. I work outside in and out of a vehicle with no AC so I find it difficult to enjoy my RR in the summer.

[ac4400fan]

well it's 9:00 pm and it cooled down to 85 from 101F so its worth it to me
Carl..yes its a/c not evap

[fec153]

NO way for mid Fla.
Flip

[icmr]

I like the idea. I might have to look into it.



Victor

Happy Railroading.[swg][swg]

[cacole]

Is this actually an air conditioner or an evaporative cooler? Unless your garage is fully finished and well insulated, this unit does not appear to have enough BTU's to cool a very large area, especially here in Arizona in the afternoon sun.

[ac4400fan]

Hi Guys ,Thought id share this For us Garage Modelers I picked this up at home depot ,just got it up and running so ill let you know in about 2 hrs hoe well it works for a AZ Garage





Carl....